How to: Make Oil pressure gauge perform like "real" gauge

[Maniak]

The first pic is the resistor on top of the cluster. In the back and the second pic is the resistor on the bottom.....just wanna make sure I'm jumping the right one.....
I can't figure out uploading the pic from my phone....the top resistor is whitish cream colored and the bottom resistor is green....any help would be much appreciated

Thanks all

I don't see the pics. But, its the 20 ohm resistor that needs to be shorted. Hopefully that helps..

~Mark

 

[96eb96]

I did this mod on my 96 ex and a 95 Thunderbird. I suggest buying the motorcraft SW-1547B (~$20 shipped from the rock) (Ford actually lists the part as an official replacement for <=96 explorers/rangers/aerostars). If you have a later model there are plenty of cheap 95-96 clusters on Ebay, where you can swap a gauge and resell it again. The 97+ gauges are wound differently and will not work.

I tried the aftermarket BWD s334 and the readings were all over the gauge. The motorcraft is precise and reads at the end of oil can icon handle at 3000 rpm and when cold, at the middle(over the cap) at 1500 rpm and on the oil drop at idle. It tracks RPM very consistently. The product proudly has this patent number engraved: 4,079,351

The aftermarket unit has slightly different physical measurements than the Ford one, it is not a re-badged part. Someone on the mustang site did a resistance test on the BWD unit, and the Pressure/Resistance curve was all over the place. He didn't test the Ford one, but an Autometer unit was perfectly linear.

You must short out the 20ohm on the instrument panel - it was clearly marked on both cars. This is a also great time to switch to LED lighting. If you don't short out the resistor the gauge will never reach the icon. I also broke my terminal going to the sender terminal - it was corroded on. I replaced it with a round crimp terminal and a 10-32 (I believe) nut. You will lose a small amount of oil, so keep a pan handy. This is a great piece of mind mod for an older vehicle. Not so much to know the exact pressure, but the trend readings can tell you a lot.

 

[Benjam]

Hey all,

I just completed this mod yesterday by removing the cluster from the dash and removing the 20 ohm resistor. It was pretty painless all in all, though I would recommend if you've never pulled this cluster before, do it Maniak's way.

Once I have the screw out from around it I pull the gauges themselves (e.g. pull the water/volt and oil/fuel gauges and the tach out. Once out I can push the electrical connectors out (squeese/push the connectors tabs). Once those are out I can manuever the rest of the cluster so I can get my hand behind it and disconnect the speedo cable. It is much easier to remove now than it was the first time I pulled it.

~Mark

I tried reaching behind the cluster to get the speedometer cable released but being I had never seen it before I had no idea where to release it.

I used Maniak's method and it worked like a charm. Beware though, maneuver those gauge pods very gently from the cluster, they will flex and the black coating flakes off in tiny pieces, just big enough to notice as you check the speedometer with Johnny law on your tail. I did release the cable from the Transfer case for a little extra slack, not sure if it did anything for me though.

Having that gauge work is a good feeling!

Benjam

 

[xj14y]

Bringing up an old thread again...

My oil needle (96 XLT V8) suddenly went to about 1/4 of the way up, max, instead of it's normal middle of the gauge position. Brought it in for an oil change, thinking it was low, and that temporarily fixed the problem. 3 days later, the water pump bearing failed, taking the main belt with it. Got that fixed, (pulled it over and was able to shut it off before any damage was done) but the needle went back to the 1/4 position. Checked the dipstick, and oil was good. Water temp occasionally rises toward hot now.

Sensor problem, oil pump, thermostat, or any other ideas?

 

[explorinitup]

Saving this for later!!

 

[intelisevil]

I've read through this and several other threads (including other forums!). One question is still unanswered in my feeble little mind . . .

How are you converting from the threaded stud on the 'new' oil pressure sender to the plug on the vehicle's wiring harness? I don't really want to cut off the plug in case I have a need to go back to stock in the future.

Thanks,