How to remove air intake manifold 2001 sport?

[ChrisTM]

I need to change my fuel injectors ( I think. Throwing code P0305, which I am told is usually fuel injector.) This involves pulling off the intake manifold to get to them. I thought it was just a matter of removing the 6 Torx screws and pulling it off, but there is a vacume can attached that is bolted to the engine with a bracket that seems to be preventing me from removing it. That bracket is behind a housing for my power steering/etc? Do I really neeed to rip all that off to take the intake manifold off?!?!

It's a 2001 Explorer Sport 2Dr 4.0 SOHC. Finally stopped raining today so I can work on it.

 

[ChrisTM]

This has still got me baffled. You do have to pull the power steering pump loose or off to get that bracket off, but the manifold itself just doesn't budge. I am really afraid of breaking it if I put any more pressure on it. You should just have to pull straight up. Anyone have any experience with this model? This is driving me crazy and I have to get this truck back on the road!

 

[janolsson]

Hey chris
IIRC there are 8 torx bolts. 3 at front, 1 a third of way back, 1 two thirds back and 3 at the rear.
The bit you are refering to at the front is the egr. There is no need to pull that off. Sometimes the oring sticks on the inside of the intake. Once all the torx are out, a bit of working will get it off

 

[2000StreetRod]

this thread may help

Starting my 00M12 Installation

 

[ChrisTM]

Hey chris
IIRC there are 8 torx bolts. 3 at front, 1 a third of way back, 1 two thirds back and 3 at the rear.
The bit you are refering to at the front is the egr. There is no need to pull that off. Sometimes the oring sticks on the inside of the intake. Once all the torx are out, a bit of working will get it off

Thanks for the reply. I found them This morning when I finally got out there and decided I was going to clean everything in hopes I would stumble on something and found those 2 torx. They were completely submerged in grit hehe.

Pulled all the injectors, cleaned them up with carb cleaner and tooth brush. They were all pretty gummed up, but none of them had the 4 holes blocked. All are clean now. Going to throw everything back together, change my plugs and see what comes of it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

P0305

P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

The most likely cause of a cylinder misfire is ignition. Next is fuel injection and last is compression. Have you checked your ignition and performed a compression test? Have you checked the electrical connection to the #5 injector with a noid light?

 

[janolsson]

Thanks for the reply. I found them This morning when I finally got out there and decided I was going to clean everything in hopes I would stumble on something and found those 2 torx. They were completely submerged in grit hehe.

Pulled all the injectors, cleaned them up with carb cleaner and tooth brush. They were all pretty gummed up, but none of them had the 4 holes blocked. All are clean now. Going to throw everything back together, change my plugs and see what comes of it.

Hope you got it
by the way mission beach still rock?? Konos coffee house still there or banana bungalow or one bar?

 

[ChrisTM]

I have not been down there in years, but it was pretty awesome memories when I was I would have to google those or go there and check it out to find out. Maybe a project for next weekend

Didn't get it all put back together. Ran out of daylight and keep getting misted on and don't want to expose the exposed engine to rain

 

[ChrisTM]

P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

The most likely cause of a cylinder misfire is ignition. Next is fuel injection and last is compression. Have you checked your ignition and performed a compression test? Have you checked the electrical connection to the #5 injector with a noid light?

Hehe, I was told the order was Fuel injector > Plugs/wires/distro > compression.

I was running those pulstar plugs http://www.pulstar.com/ which really did work. I pulled the three easy ones out (4,5,6) and all were fairly burnt and I broke the #5 and they are all pretty brittle. The OEM plug for this truck is Iridium's so thats what I am putting back in. Plug wires are all new and in great and clean condition.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pulstar plugs

I heard about Pulstar plugs before and being an electrical engineer was sceptical of their claims. The stock SOHC V6 ignition system is very adequate for normal driving. The waste spark system is hard on plugs because current flows in opposite directions for each pair of plugs. The loss of electrode metal is dependent on the direction of current flow. Here's a link to an independent test that refutes Pulstar's claims: Pulstar Pulse Plugs

I would not be surprised if the source of your misfire is Pulstar plugs.

 

[ChrisTM]

I heard about Pulstar plugs before and being an electrical engineer was sceptical of their claims. The stock SOHC V6 ignition system is very adequate for normal driving. The waste spark system is hard on plugs because current flows in opposite directions for each pair of plugs. The loss of electrode metal is dependent on the direction of current flow. Here's a link to an independent test that refutes Pulstar's claims: Pulstar Pulse Plugs

I would not be surprised if the source of your misfire is Pulstar plugs.

I have also been thinking that. 2 of the 6 were so brittle when I pulled them out they crumbled. I can say I did see a small but noticeable increase in power, however I was unquestioningly getting ~3mpg more with them.

 

[ChrisTM]

Ok, replaced all spark plugs, cleaned all of the fuel injectors with carb cleaner, soaked them in hot water (and man did alot of crap come out of them) then let them dry over night. Put them in (with all new rings lubricated with 5w-30) and tossed everything together. Ended up with no extra parts/screws/bolts hehe.

It doesn't start. Cranks, but doesn't start. I will admit, I was listening to music when I put the fuel pump relay and fuse back in. Fuse is not blown. The battery was completely removed from the truck until I had all the injectors in and connected and all electrical connectors connected. It acts like it's not getting any fuel.

Thinking maybe I somehow hurt my fuel relay? Relays are usually pretty resilient, but it's all I can think of. I have checked and rechecked all plugwires both at the plug and at the distro cap, which I didnt remove.

Any Idea's?

 

[2000StreetRod]

cranks but no start

Does the CEL illuminate when ignition switched to run?

Does the THEFT light flash rapidly in Start?

Does the CEL not illuminate in Start?

Do you have spark at the plugs?

Do you have a Schrader valve to check for fuel pressure?

Did you reconnect the PCM, camshaft position sensor, TPS, ignition coil?

 

[ChrisTM]

Crisis Averted. It was a case of dumbasitus. I failed to connect a connector all the way (it was on, just not well.) Running really smooth.

On a side note, how do you check for spark without a screwdriver and pulling the plug? What is a Schrader valve?

 

[ChrisTM]

Took it for a ride down the free way and around to get the battery charged back up and make sure there were no problems. Man it is running so much smoother. The idle is just so buttery smooth. Response is very nice. Thanks for all your help.

 

[janolsson]

Crisis Averted. It was a case of dumbasitus. I failed to connect a connector all the way (it was on, just not well.) Running really smooth.

On a side note, how do you check for spark without a screwdriver and pulling the plug? What is a Schrader valve?

For future fault finding
To check for spark i disable fuel pull the lead, and insert spare plug then holding with insulated grips and grounding the casing of the plug i get someone to crank.

Schrader valve is on the fuel line just forward of the left valve cover (looks like a mountain bike tire valve). You can attach a fuel pressure guage (cheap but handy tool for help in diagnosis) here to check adequate pressure.

Glad to hear you are up and running, Chris 1 - SOHC 0

 

[ChrisTM]

Yup, I will see about getting me one. Can you toss me a link to one? Tackling my 2-3 shift issue this weekend. Had it for almost a year now and since I have replaced the transmission and both speed sensors I have eye'd a VB rebuild kit for $55 shipped with the gaskets and will have that coming soon. Thinking I will just replace the EPC solenoid as well just in case. It's $56 and considering what I have spent on this already I am thinking it's going to be well worth it.