How To: Replace a defective sliding door latch.

[rv4fun]

Be sure to check the channel the roller in the center of the door rides in. I have two Aerostars and I found the forward end of the channel was broken where it fastens to the body on both of them. The door was very hard to close and then refused to open. I blamed the latch and thought the door alignment might be causing problems. Once I reattached the front end of the channel, both doors opened and closed a lot better and the rear of the door was aligned better. I cut a small piece of metal a little less than 1/8 inch thick by about 1 1/2 inches long and 3/4 inch wide to replace the broken piece that came loose when I took the bolt securing it out. I bent it sharply about 45 degrees in the middle and drilled a hole in one end so the bolt would pull the channel back into position when I slid it inside the channel and tightened it down.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Don't waste time trying to get a latch from a junkyard when you could order a new one online. I have two links in this post: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2690129&postcount=40

 

[pdknz]

Don't waste time trying to get a latch from a junkyard when you could order a new one online. I have two links in this post: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2690129&postcount=40

Thank you, thank you. The price is right, too.

Really appreciate.

PK

 

[BrooklynBay]

Sliding door latch modification.

There is a way to modify the sliding door latch to prevent it from jamming. I've been trying several things for a while with much trial & error until I devised a rock solid repair. I didn't want to post this earlier until it was thoroughly tested (about a month or more of use). Here's is the basic sliding door latch (not modified):

The spring in the upper corner pops out of place, and needs to be held down by a small metal L bracket:

The L bracket keeps the spring in place. Here's the top view with the metal L bracket installed:

This is an important update on 2/24/2013. The lower part of the bracket has a hole which goes into the latch. Insert the spring into this hole instead of using the bracket to wedge the spring to the side. This will hold the spring in place, and prevent it from slipping out. Here's the photo with the new modification:

 

[Jose A.]

great job! I assume the added bracket and screw do not interfere with the latch mechanism movements under any conditions? What happens if you slam the sliding door hard? will it open from inside and outside after slamming the door?

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's reliable no matter how hard you slam it (unlike the factory latch). The bracket holds the end of the spring in place, and doesn't interfere with the workings of the mechanism.

 

[Malk67]

Gonna have to try this. The new one I got from Ford started doing the same thing after about a year. Really don't feel like spending the $90.00+ to get another one.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I'm surprised that the dealer charged so much. They usually cost under $30. The modification cost under a dollar, and is more reliable.

 

[Jose A.]

that's why some call them "Stealers"...

 

[Jose A.]

I discovered yesterday that the Sliding Door latch is the same latch as the one in the Rear Hatch.

 

[rv4fun]

Thanks Jose A. for that information - I'll keep that in mind the next time a make a trip to the junk yard and see if I can find an extra.

I discovered yesterday that the Sliding Door latch is the same latch as the one in the Rear Hatch.

It's remarkable how comparatively trouble free the rear hatch latch is compared to the sliding door latch - at least in my case.

 

[Jose A.]

tailgate latch is the same part as the sliding door latch

rv4fun you welcome, it is amazing I had not noticed before...

it was right there in front of my nose!

 

[JohnAerostarXLT]

Thanks for all the info guys, I'll be taking on this issue pretty soon with my '96 XLT. The local (50 miles away lol) pull-a-part has 6 Aerostars from 1990-1997, so I should be able to find a good latch on one of them.

 

[Jose A.]

over in one of my near salvage yards they charge $6.00 per latch, plus tax, plus $2.00 admission to the yard; Then you have 2 hours worth of labor, a fight trying to remove the 3 rusty Torx bolts, and if you succeed removing two bolts, the third one is usually stripped or it just won't move, no way to remove it without a power tool, and no way to bring a power tool inside the yard. I've given up trying to remove them. The last time I tried to remove one I hurt my wrist, so I walked out of the yard lame. Frankly my dear, I hate Torx bolts.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Maybe you could use a small butane powered micro torch to heat the bolts up, then use the Torx bit on a ratchet. Don't let them see the torch. They might not allow it in the yard if they don't allow power tools. I'm surprised that they won't let you take a battery powered impact wrench. Another option is to use a hammer driven impact tool.

 

[Jose A.]

they allow some power tools, but my point is I didn't think I would need heat or impact wrenches to remove 3 bolts. In the case of the door latches, I could see failed attempts by others to remove them and gave up.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The factory bolts appear to have blue thread lock to prevent them from coming loose (at least that's what they look like around the rust areas). I didn't use any thread lock on the new bolts, and they never got loose so far. I wonder if anti seize compound on the bolts might be a better option?

 

[Jose A.]

I think the normal hex bolts you used are a better way to deal with the re-install, I will replace those Torx bolts as soon as possible. Yes, they used blue thread lock on every one of those I've seen, but it's not the blue lock causing the problem, it's the massive torque that was used to keep them in place. I've never had a problem with those bolts loosening, I just think the amount of torque used was over-kill.

 

[JohnAerostarXLT]

Well, I tried removing the three bolts on my van's door latch and was able to get them loose without power tools or heat, BUT that's not to say the junkyard ones will come out as easily. All I can do is try (when I can afford to go).

Since they're the same, I wonder if it would be easier to remove the one on the rear hatch from a junkyard van. If I can get them off fairly easily, maybe I should grab as many as I can.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I would repair the old latch instead of replace it. The modification is a rock solid upgrade.