HOW to test if 4X4 is working without lifting the truck? | Ford Explorer Forums

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HOW to test if 4X4 is working without lifting the truck?

98formulaLS1

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Virginia Beach, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 XLS
I'm buying a 2000 X, and I tried to test the 4X4 by switching to 4X4 HIGH and locking the wheels to the right and giving gas, hoping that the wheel would skip. Nope, they didnt skip, but then again I was on dirt.

If there another way I can test the 4X4 HIGH without putting the truck on a lift?

Thanks
 



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this may be oversimplified, but how about full throtle on wet grass? I'm sure there may be more tech based answers out there.
 






BTW, the 4X4 HIGH dash light DOES come on too.
 






Idle the truck (Park/Neutral), turn on the 4x4 switch, listen/feel for the transfer case to engage.
 






Idle the truck (Park/Neutral), turn on the 4x4 switch, listen/feel for the transfer case to engage.

thanks, anyother suggestions too? I want to make 100% sure that it IS or ISNT working.
 






Go to gravel. Have somebody watch. Nail it.

Edit: If you do this, have them stand off to the side in front of your truck...you don't want to pelt them with gravel.

Dirt works great too. Anything loosely packed you can spin the tires on.
 






I was wondering the same thing. I haven't had to use 4WD yet, but it would be nice to know that it will work if I need it.
 












also turn the wheel all the way one way and feel for it. It will kinda hop. If you attempt it in 2wd it will feel smoother.
 






also turn the wheel all the way one way and feel for it. It will kinda hop. If you attempt it in 2wd it will feel smoother.

lol, didnt you read my original post? thats exactly what I did.

So, if I determine that 4x4 is not engaging, but the 4x4 light IS coming on, is it still worth it for me to buy for $1575 with 133K miles.
 






How does the rest of the X look? If it is in good shape, in & out, and the rest of the "important" functions work, than hell yes! I just paid $2K for a '95 with a slew of probs! I have fixed 80% of them myself in the last 2-3 weeks w/help from the "Gurus" on this site. I have a '94 with the 4x4 out on it, and have been getting info here on it. I am certain I can fix it myself for pennies on the dollar with the help of my Xtended family! So if it runs good, sounds good, feels good, get it if it makes you happy, dont sweat it, we can help ya!
Ask the seller to show you the 4x4 works, if he can not, drop your offer, or ask for a price adjustment, who knows, you might get a better deal!
 






On hard pavement, make a sharp turn in 4WD. You should feel like something is wrong, like something is binding. In fact, if you're on a grade and you put the trans in neutral, the bind will even keep it from rolling. Now, flip it to auto, and you should feel the front end jump, and the rig should roll again if you're on an incline.
 






Try to climb a curb in 2WD then in 4WD. The 4WD will climb much easier.
 






Get in an open area and drive the truck around in a tight circle. With the 4x4 on, you will be able to hear the front wheels "fighting" you when you cut the wheels. It will be like a clunking sound. If you do not hear this while in 4wheeldrive, it isn't working.

EDIT: apparently two or three people have already said this, but still. Try it.
 






ok guys, jsut wanted to update you. I tested last night in the dirt and the wheel didnt seem to skipping, but i took it out on the pavement today and tried again. 4x4 DEF works! I need to replace the front driveshaft u-joints though. It makes a awful noise around 3500rpm.
 






Idle the truck (Park/Neutral), turn on the 4x4 switch, listen/feel for the transfer case to engage.

There is nothing to 'feel' if you're not moving. Nothing shifts like the 1st-gen case. If you can *hear* electricity flowing through the transfer case clutch coil, then more power to ya'!

The quick simple method would be to brake-torque it just to the point that the rear wheels slip in 4-auto on a loose gravel surface, while hanging your head out the window watching the rear tire. You should see the tire begin to slip (maybe 1/4 turn of the rear tire in the gravel), then feel the front drivetrain engage momentarily. It should not allow the rear wheels to slip in 4high or 4low.

-Joe
 






You can definitely "feel" it disengage when the front axle is in a bind and not moving. The whole front end should jump when you put it back in auto if you turned sharp on a hard surface in 4WD.
 






You can definitely "feel" it disengage when the front axle is in a bind and not moving. The whole front end should jump when you put it back in auto if you turned sharp on a hard surface in 4WD.

This is true, I did this yesterday.
 






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