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I fixed my overhead console display yesterday, pictures added.

I had this problem and took apart the console. When i got to the circuit board one of my 510 was gone and i couldnt find it. Does anyone know where i can find the right resistor?

I purchased some 51 ohm resistors from radio-shack, they came in a huge bulk bag with 900 other resistors. These aren't surface mount resistors, but standard cylinder-in a line style resistors.

Something like these (click me)


I soldered them down to my board but was unable to fix the problem. I ended up pulling one from a junkyard from an early explorer.

It worked with one exception, when I dim my dash lights the overhead console lights flicker. At full bright or full dim there is no problem however.
 



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you will need "510" ohm resistors not "51"ohm


I purchased some 51 ohm resistors from radio-shack, they came in a huge bulk bag with 900 other resistors. These aren't surface mount resistors, but standard cylinder-in a line style resistors.

Something like these (click me)


I soldered them down to my board but was unable to fix the problem. I ended up pulling one from a junkyard from an early explorer.

It worked with one exception, when I dim my dash lights the overhead console lights flicker. At full bright or full dim there is no problem however.

edit (2/24/2014)
just re-read this post since it was bumped up, Krispy97xlt is correct!
51ohm, don't know where my head was when I wrote that
 






just soldered in a regular 510 cylinder resistor and this did not fix the problem. Any ideas on what else could be wrong
 












you will need "510" ohm resistors not "51"ohm


Actually it is not a 510 ohm resistor.

SMD (surface mount) resistors are noted in the first 2 digits as a value, and the last one is

x10^(last digit)

So 510 would be 51x(10^0) or 51 ohms.

If you don't believe me put a multi meter on a stock component and measure the resistance. Mine came in at 50.9 ohm.
 






Actually it is not a 510 ohm resistor.

SMD (surface mount) resistors are noted in the first 2 digits as a value, and the last one is

x10^(last digit)

So 510 would be 51x(10^0) or 51 ohms.

If you don't believe me put a multi meter on a stock component and measure the resistance. Mine came in at 50.9 ohm.

Just got done taking it all apart again. Just for fun i did put the meter on it and you are correct. Ill be swapping the 51 ohm in for the 510 ohm i put in. Appreciate the help.
 






I have this problem (complete blackout of the overhead compass/thermometer display). I saw it flicker once but almost always is off. I also have had intermittent issues with the reading lights -- one of them comes on consistently, the other one sometimes does not and other times does just fine. Has anyone had issues with the reading lights? Maybe a bulb dying(?).

Anyway, I was planning on sending mine in to that person that offers repair on Ebay once I get a couple of other repairs out of the way.
 






Just got done taking it all apart again. Just for fun i did put the meter on it and you are correct. Ill be swapping the 51 ohm in for the 510 ohm i put in. Appreciate the help.

Any time sir! Hope it works out for ya!
 






I took my console apart last week and sent it in to another Ebay seller in Florida. They offer repair for $14.96 LINK, including return shipping. It's in the mail now and should arrive back to me about 8-10 days after I shipped it out.
 






I took my console apart last week and sent it in to another Ebay seller in Florida. They offer repair for $14.96 LINK, including return shipping. It's in the mail now and should arrive back to me about 8-10 days after I shipped it out.

This repair was successful. It took about 10 days from when I sent it out until when I received it. Return packaging was a bubblewrap envelope, not the box I sent it in. The display was bent down but still works after I bent it back into shape.
 






I found another thread on this site that I followed but wasn't an exact step by step for the trac. Then I seen this one. It is great to finally lay eyes on the display, even better when you do it and save $ and for me adding another tool to my bag of tricks.
I would like to add what I found out on my reading lights (I'm sure nothing new). The drivers worked but never the passenger side. Since I had everything apart for the board I took a closer look. The flex circuit could be your problem but not mine. My bulb wasn't burnt out either but the plastic socket had heated up on 1 side which caught my eye and a closer look revealed the wire (lead?) for the bulb on that side wasn't making contact. The 2 wires for the bulbs are actually soldered to the socket. Solder to make contact and was good to go. Thinking I'll take the bulbs out and solder in the 194 LEDs. Anyone done so? Pics?
Thanks
323DDF52-2840-4B01-B812-7C51375E51D9_zpshkpayenm.jpg
 






I went to the local junkyard yesterday and grabbed a radio/dash bezel from a 2nd Gen Explorer, I plan on taking out the toggle swith I have for my roof offroad lights and wiring them into the second switch the 2nd Gen Ex bezel has for the rear window defrost. I'll swap out the defrost button for my fog light button and it'll look factory.

My question is, does anyone have the wiring diagram for the fog light switch so I can splice into those wires? Colors to what they are?

Could you do a quick write up of how you did this, care to throw up any after pics. I will eventually have lights on my safari bar and rather keep it stock rather aftermarket switches and locations. I do have factory fogs so that switch is taken. I was looking at the Hellas black magic, I think there called, unless I get swayed away but was thinking piggyback on the factory switch. How would one accomplish that and why wouldn't that be a good idea, forgive me if that is an electrical no no
 






Already did and Lono added to it. it's in the "sticky" section above.
 






Thank you and sorry, I didn't put 2 n 2 together
 






I have a 2001 Mounty that never came with an overhead console for some reason. Anyway, about 4 years ago, was able to obtain an old console/temp sensor and associated wiring from a junkyard, wired them in, installed all the hardware and viola, temp & compass reading worked great. Until about a month ago. Compass worked fine, but temp reading would freeze at whatever the ambient temp was after the car warmed up. Next day, same symptoms. Returned to the junkyard (I love junkyards), bought a replacement console and temp sensor, and same problem after replacing the old parts with the "new" parts. I tested the temp sensor, and it's reading about 11K ohms - within parameters. Bottom line, both old and new consoles work ok until the car warms up, and then the temp reading freezes. Any suggestions for solution(s)?
Thanks in advance,
Steve A.
'01 Mountaineer (V8)
 






Hey Jerry, hate to bother you, but could you reattach your pictures? A coworker needs to fix his and your thread is the best for step by step directions. I think the website change messed up some of the pictures.
 






I don't have any pictures of the repair, but the repair itself is quite easy. hardest part was removing the overhead console display and taking it apart (quite a jigsaw puzzle. Pay attention to order of disassembly). IIRC there was a Phillips screw or two that are located in the little compartment, then the front is held in place with those damn push-in spring clips. Once the unit is loose from the roof, there's a bunch of small screws hidden under the stick-on foam. Then the part with the display and circuit board can be removed. On the circuit board there are two square resistors. They are silver colored and I think they have the number 510 on them. The resistors get hot and eventually break the solder joints that hold them to the circuit board, usually on just one side,

I bought a fine point soldering iron and some silver solder (I already had some flux). I very carefully soldered both sides of the resistors. If you happen to start on the side that's still connected to the board the resistor may move once the the solder gets hot. If you've got an extra pair of hands around, hold the resistor in place with a pencil eraser until the solder cools to prevent it from accidentally moving. I've done this repair on my ST and my XLT. Both displays are still working fine. The first one I did was over 2 years ago.
 






I don't have any pictures of the repair, but the repair itself is quite easy. hardest part was removing the overhead console display and taking it apart (quite a jigsaw puzzle. Pay attention to order of disassembly). IIRC there was a Phillips screw or two that are located in the little compartment, then the front is held in place with those damn push-in spring clips. Once the unit is loose from the roof, there's a bunch of small screws hidden under the stick-on foam. Then the part with the display and circuit board can be removed. On the circuit board there are two square resistors. They are silver colored and I think they have the number 510 on them. The resistors get hot and eventually break the solder joints that hold them to the circuit board, usually on just one side,

I bought a fine point soldering iron and some silver solder (I already had some flux). I very carefully soldered both sides of the resistors. If you happen to start on the side that's still connected to the board the resistor may move once the the solder gets hot. If you've got an extra pair of hands around, hold the resistor in place with a pencil eraser until the solder cools to prevent it from accidentally moving. I've done this repair on my ST and my XLT. Both displays are still working fine. The first one I did was over 2 years ago.

Thanks koda.
 






I'll look and see what pictures need replaced and fix it. Not sure why they're gone.
 



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