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I think I'm ready to lower the X...please help

02XSport

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Year, Model & Trim Level
'05 Toyota 4Runner SE V8
Okay, the more I look at my '02 Sport, the more I want to lower it just a bit. But I don't want to spend much, and I don't want to hurt my ride quality. I love the setup Matt (Black Magic) has, and might go that direction, but wanted to get all of the facts first, before I start anything.

Here is what I have: '02 Sport 2wd w/20's

What should I know before I do this, any warnings or cautions?

How much, in total, should I expect to spend on this?

Is it something I can do myself?

Should I worry about the warranty being voided?

Does adjusting the torsion bolts that much harm anything?

Thanks for all your help!
 



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Originally posted by 02XSport


What should I know before I do this, any warnings or cautions?

just get a good alignment when you're done, and drive it around after you make your adjustments to the torsion bars it will settle out and drop more

How much, in total, should I expect to spend on this?

cost for alignment and blocks for the rear

mething I can do myself?

yes very easily

Should I worry about the warranty being voided?

won't void the warrant

Does adjusting the torsion bolts that much harm anything?

nope you'll be ok
 






yep he covered it. Dont be afraid to take your torsion adj. bolts out all the way. I did it on mine (i believe blakc majic did too)...it gives u a good drop.

Drop the front end first, drive around a little bit (not much, maybe like 20 miles), then measure the height of the back, and the front. From there figure out what size blocks u need. The sports are goofy with the monoleaf. If u take the front bolts out, you should get around 3" lower in the front, but will probably only need 1 - 2" blocks in the back.
 






Judging from your pics and what you said you shouldnt need to take the torsion bolts out to achieve the drop I think youre looking for. I put 1" blocks in the back of mine and then backed the torsion bolts out a little. Then I drove around my street, driving off curbs and stuff to make it bounce for about a minute and came back and measured. I kept adjusting them little by little and driving around until it was the height I wanted (just a little lower than the back) and even on both sides. Then just get an alignment and youre set.

You can do it however you want. Just make sure its the way you want it before you go for your alignment... cause once you get the alignment, dont touch those bolts.
 






If you are worried about precautions, get a haynes manual or something similar. Whenever i do work, i look in the haynes manual for how to remove to the corresponding parts and what precautions to make. Like when i lowered my explorer, i looked in my haynes manual for how to remove the torsion bars, and how to remove the back axel. Even though i never went that far with what i was doing, it sure was a help with their little tips.
 






I like the pics!

What's the brand on those wheels? How much did you pay?
 






Thanks for all of the help and assurance, I think I might actually attempt this on Saturday, as long as I can find the lowering blocks at the local auto parts store.

In the pics that I have, I have actually already adjusted the torsion bolts for a 1" drop to make it level with the back, but now I want another 1" all the way around, and I think a 1" block in the back along with some more adjustments to the bolts, might actually give me the look I'm going for.

I am wondering how much more I can turn those bolts before they just come all the way out, because I think I've probably turned them a total of 5-6 complete rotations so far, and that only gave me an inch, but Matt (Black Magic) was able to obtain a 2.5 inch drop with the same number of turns, but that may have to do with the fact that he has 4wd, I don't know.

The wheels are made by BBS, with the name Moda R7, and when I called about a month ago to order one more, I was told on the phone that they had discontinued these wheels and they will no longer be made, so whatever they had left in the warehouse, was all they would ever get. So I'm glad I bought one more before this happened, just to be safe. And the cost of those was right under $2000 for all 4 wheels w/tires, then I spent another $500 to get one more, just to be on the safe side.
 






The bolts are probably about 1.5 - 1.75" long.
 






One more question.....

Where do you all recommend for getting an allignment done and possible camber adjusters???

I haven't had the most luck with shops recently as you all know (Goodyear incident) so I guess I am really picky because of this.

Thanks!
 






Sounds like a lot of good information here so far.

I did not take my bolts all the way out. Just backed out untill I received the drop I was looking for.

I have the write up on this ---===HERE===---

Let me know if you have any questions!?!

Keep up the good work on that great looking truck!
 






Getting alignments done when it really matters that they are perfect, like in your case (dont want to ruin those nice tires), you have to find a shop that you trust or that is recommended by someone that you trust. I got screwed the first time I got my alignment and had to get it done at another shop. Just make sure you rotate your tires every 3K miles and keep an eye on them.
 






I guess I might just call around to different shops and see if they have experience doing this kind of thing and then go from there.

I went to the local auto parts store tonight to look for 1" lowering blocks, but the guy asked me if I had "round U-bolts or square U-bolts". Of course, I didn't know what he meant by this, so I just left without buying anything. So, I am asking you guys....what kind of U-bolts do I need???

Thanks again
 






rounded u bolts.
 






Why would the shape of the "U" have anything to do with placing blocks in? Round or square would be at the opposite end of where the blocks are going right? Am I missing something?

Robb
 






Yes, it does matter robb. The block goes in between the axle and the leaf. The top of the ubolt fits over the top of the axle, then attaches to the lower shock plate under the leaf. Therefore, you need a round ubolt to fit around the axle tube.
 






yep.....uh hu....what he said....
 






O2Xsport...if you are willing to drive, there is a Kaufmann tire that did mine for 91 bucks including a shim for one side, i have gone there for years and they treat me great...just a suggestion.
 






hmmmm....its more money than I thought for the allignment and all, I called Kauffmann Tire near me and asked what they'd charge for the allignment and the camber adjusters....

they quoted me $60 for the allignment and another $120 for the camber adjusters.....so I'm thinking I'm not going to do this just yet, I didn't plan on spending that much right now, unless you all suggest somewhere that might be a little cheaper???
 






well think of it this way...you can do it the right way or the cheap way. the cheap way will screw up your brand new tires and sooner than you think you'll being having to get new tires all over again...which will be way more than the 120 extra for the camber adjustment
 



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that seems like a lot...
mine was 70 bucks TOTAL (camber adjusters and alignment)

For that much, just go buy the camber adjusters yourself EE's lowering kit for sports....after shipping it will be 10 bucks less and at least your supporting a good company
 






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