I want 3 simple answers.... | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

I want 3 simple answers....

5.0L V8

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 1, 2010
Messages
166
Reaction score
0
City, State
Paradise,Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Explorer 5.0 AWD
Doing my first oil change on the 5.0 (Explorer was my moms and she ALWAYS got it done at a Lube n Oil shop).

I want to start putting synthetic in it.

Question #1 : Favored Sythetic Oil?

Question #2 : BEST oil filter for ford 5.0's? Heard motorcraft is trhe ONLY way to go. If I cannot obtain one, which is the 2nd "best" oil filter?

Question #3 : The 302 hold 5 quarts correct?

Thanks for the answers...

-Evan
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





My opinions:

1. Mobil 1 and Amsoil seem popular. I use 5 qt jugs of Mobil 1 5w-30 from walmart.

2. Motorcraft FL-820S. Walmart has them here anyway. I also use the FL-1A for the V6.

3. 5qts, yes.
 






Amsoil is the best oil, but that's mail order basically.

The best locally available choice is usually Pennzoil, their synthetic is one level above normal synthetic oils, and Amsoil is a good step past that.

Walmart carries two Pennzoil synthetic choices now. I bought the cheaper of the two($2-3 difference), and it was at least 1$ less than other lesser brands(Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline). That's buying it in 5 quart jugs, perfect for the 302.

If you are doing maintenance because you really care about the vehicle, spend the money for the very best air filter. About 99% of contaminants in the oil come through the air filter. Check your oil, and tell us how it looks?

If your oil is black or dark, not transparent, it's too dirty and the air filter is not cleaning the air well enough.

Join Amsoil as a one year member for $10, and order an air filter from them. That filter will last four years and keep the oil so clean that it will be transparent. Just vacuum it once a year, no oiling ever. Regards,
 






I use

1. Mobil1 EP 15,000/1year formula
2. Mobil1 EP Filter
3. Yes
 






Thanks for the simple replies for my simple questions guys. The air filter is fine and rather new.

So, Motorcraft FL-820S, and 5 Qt Jug of Pennzoil or Mobil 1 Synthetic are the preffered products around here? Why the 5w-10 as opposed to the 10w-30?
 






motorcraft is the aftermarket oil filter, all brand new fords come with a purlator one filter. which is not labeled.
 






motorcraft is the aftermarket oil filter, all brand new fords come with a purlator one filter. which is not labeled.


So......? Not sure what you are trying to say. Is a motorcraft filter a bad reccomendation from you? Everyone else said the motorcraft was the way to go.

As for oil, i'm looking at the Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 High mileage fully Synthetic 10w-30. Which are preferred?
 






Walmart usually has the FL-820S or FL-1A for as low of a price as anywhere else.

The weight you choose is for climate, most are fine to use anywhere. I like a 10w-30 for Summer, and lean to 0w-20 for Winter. That is not a big deal. Night,
 






Night man, thank you for the reply.
 






So......? Not sure what you are trying to say. Is a motorcraft filter a bad reccomendation from you? Everyone else said the motorcraft was the way to go.

As for oil, i'm looking at the Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 High mileage fully Synthetic 10w-30. Which are preferred?

a brand new ford, from factory comes with a purlator one filter.

the recommended brand is aftermarket motorcraft. hence why they never look the same.

both are good. i was just pointing out that from a ford factory, its not a motorcraft filter on the vehicle till its first oil change.
 






After Amsoil I would say Royal Purple if you can find it locally somewhere. The Pennzoil full synthetic is supposed to be good. Even though Mobil-1 is not supposed to be as good as it used to I had good test results with it on a 10,000 mile oil change. And that was regular Mobil-1, not the 15,000 mile.

How far of a change interval are you going to run?
 






Penzoil and mobile one full synthetics aren't really synthetic oils, they are hydrocracked conventionals. Valvoline is the same quality of those two. Royal purple is an esther based synthetic oil, and not real good for use in a daily driver. Amsoil is good oil, and a true synthetic, but even then, it is only marginally better than anything else.

Simplest answer I can give you is, if you ask someone what the best brand of oil is, they will tell you the brand of oil they use. Either way, as long as you are using a good quality oil and doing regular fluid changes on a daily driver, you will never notice a difference in the performance of the oil or engine life.
 












Penzoil and mobile one full synthetics aren't really synthetic oils, they are hydrocracked conventionals.

How do they False advertise yet still remain in buissness? They are straight telling a lie to the consumers? I find that hard to believe. What exactly do ya mean by a "Hyrdocracked Conventional" ?
 






And I usually do every 3,000 mile intervals. Will that be too often with Synthetic?
 






Simplest answer I can give you is, if you ask someone what the best brand of oil is, they will tell you the brand of oil they use. Either way, as long as you are using a good quality oil and doing regular fluid changes on a daily driver, you will never notice a difference in the performance of the oil or engine life.

!*!*!*DING DING DING*!*!*!

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner of the best advice award in this thread.
 






The air filter is way more important than the oil you choose. The crap in your oil comes from the air that gets through your air filter.

Pennzoil synthetic is real synthetic oil, it's the first regular brand that is, which you can get locally. The other brands at stores is the hydrocracked stuff.

Buy a better air filter, not just a new one, but an Amsoil air filter. That will keep any oil cleaner, and that's the goal.
 












The air filter is way more important than the oil you choose. The crap in your oil comes from the air that gets through your air filter.
.........
Buy a better air filter, not just a new one, but an Amsoil air filter. That will keep any oil cleaner, and that's the goal.

I don't think so.... you want to start looking at a ring job well before worrying about an air filter dirtying up oil... :-)
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





How do they False advertise yet still remain in buissness? They are straight telling a lie to the consumers? I find that hard to believe. What exactly do ya mean by a "Hyrdocracked Conventional" ?

A while back, Mobil 1 filed a complaint with the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau because Castrol Synthetic was actually made with a Group III base stock, not a true synthetic Group IV or Group V base stock. Castrol presented enough evidence to the NAD to convince them that their group III base stock could be considered a Full Synthetic since the hydrocracking process significantly modified the oil, they had PAOs and Esters mixed in and it performed much like a true full synthetic. These Hydrocracked Group III oils became what is now known as Group III+. Since then, every manufacturer started making Group III+ synthetics as their full synthetic offerings. The Group III+ have 2 advantages over the PAOs and Esters. 1, they are cheaper. 2, they hold Viscosity Index modifiers better than Esters and PAOs.

Think of a hydrocracked conventional as a SUPER refined conventional. Hydrocracking is used to create very even length molecule chains so it exhibits most of the properties of a synthetic at a much lower cost. True full synthetics use lab made Group IV PAO or Group V Ester base stocks.

Penzoil Ultra is NOT a true full synthetic. It is a group III+ base stock with PAOs and Esters added. The difference between it and Platinum is the additive package, which it uses to attain an extended drain interval so they would have a product that directly competed with the Mobil 1 synthetic's extended drain interval.

Budwich, it is actually a pretty well documented fact that "performance" air filters do dirty your oil. Even with good rings, combustion gasses NATURALLY contaminate your oil. When your engine is running, there are deposits of oil left on the sides of the cylinders on the up and down stroke, it is not all wiped off by the rings, even perfectly sealing rings, and it is not meant to be either. Without that oil there, you would be gouging your cylinder walls on every upstroke of the piston. That is one of the biggest reasons you need to regularly change your oil, and why you ALWAYS change your oil before storing a car.

That being said, an OEM paper filter is your best bet if you want to keep your engine clean and running good. The difference in flow between using a paper filter and a performance filter is MINISCULE, despite how much better the filters flow per square inch, and better flow = worse filtration. Either you are letting more through or you are not. Flow is not something you really need to worry about though, because the rest of the induction system is a bigger restriction than your filter. That is the reason your air filter is so much bigger than your intake pipe.

But, for those who are going to inevitably argue with me about how their air filter gave them 451.8 more horsepower and gave them 99 miles to the gallon, I'll leave THIS article, where the writer demonstrates that air flow is not significantly affected by your choice in air filter.

Strangely enough... Those engineers that designed your car ACTUALLY knew a thing or two about fluid dynamics and how an engine works.

And I usually do every 3,000 mile intervals. Will that be too often with Synthetic?

These days, a 3,000 mile drain interval is short even for conventionals. Unless you are in constant stop and go traffic, like long commutes on those 6 lane parking lots they have in big cities, a 3000 mile interval is kinda wasteful. If you had a data center, the oil change reminder is based on time and engine revolutions, and in most cases, you will find they won't ask you to change oil for 5000 miles. Most full synthetics are good for about 10,000 miles or more, but you still want to change your oil AT LEAST every 6 months, because the combustion gasses that get in your oil will start becoming corrosive. Unfortunately, despite how long synthetics can hold their additive packages in suspension and their even polymer profile, oil still gets dirty to the point where the additives cannot prevent additional engine wear.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top