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I will do free box designs

jtbuck92

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 9, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Nashville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'03 Limited 4.6L
If anyone needs a design for a subwoofer box, I will design one free. It has to be a simple box, sealed or ported. No 4th or 6th orders, or any funky shapes. All you have to do is give me your dimensions, power, subs, t/s parameters of subs, and what kind of bass you are looking for. I will need to be able to contact you easily. I will provide a drawing on google sketchup and help with any questions you have. I've been doing this for a little while, and have made several designs for people. Here are a few of the boxes that I've designed and built (keep in mind these were built locally, so I don't have very many to show):

subbox.jpg

ariceDDsubinbox.jpg

0423091536.jpg

0817081240.jpg


Thanks for looking. If you want a design or even advice, just PM me.

Edit: more formal request information



I'm doing free box designs now, for sealed and regular ported boxes (includes aeroports). I've done a few for people on here and other places already. -->If you want to be a guinea pig, I will try a 4th or 6th order, but definitely no promises on those designs. If I get a few people to give me a chance on these designs, I could probably get good at them.

Let me state a few things:

1) I don't build, I design. Don't PM me asking about building or shipping you a box.

2) If your box won't fit, I'll let you know. If you want to stuff it in there, I can try my best, but I won't promise anything.

3) I will make recommendations as far as sub and port location, but ultimately it is up to you.

4) I will make recommendations as to how many cubic and what tuning you should use.

5) I contact you through either PM or email, which ever you prefer.

6) I usually do music/daily boxes. I don't like to design strictly SPL/fart boxes, but I might be willing to make an exception depending on your situation.

7) I will do a SPL or SQ oriented daily box, but I usually do lower tuned boxes.

8) There is no sub I won't do a design for, as long as it's meant to be in a sealed or ported enclosure. I will NOT check out other box designs.

9) When it comes to sub manufacturers that recommend higher tuned boxes, I usually like to tune slightly lower. (Especially when it comes to companies like Digital Designs and Audioque

10) If you have any recommendations when it comes to how I present myself to you, please tell me. Also, tell me if you need me to draw my design in a 3D version. It'll take longer, and please only ask if it's absolutely necessary.

11) This is a long shot, but I'd appreciate any donations for doing box designs. I don't care if it's only $1, it still helps.

12) If you get a design from me, please tell your friends or other people on other forums. I'll do designs for anyone. I don't mind if you have my email and give it to someone who needs a design.

13) If you need general recommendations for what sub and/or amp to run for your application, I can help. I don't know every brand out there, but if you're completely lost I can guide you in the right direction.

14) I will try to answer box requests as rapidly as I can. The better contact you keep with me, the quicker I will have your box designed.

15) Most importantly (at least to me) is that each box I design is custom made. I start from scratch, no pre-designed enclosures. Period.

IMPORTANT: Make sure you send me the t/s parameters & specs, dimensions, and what kind of sound you are looking for. If I agree to do a SPL design, the resonance frequency of your vehicle would be very helpful.

Me:
If you want to know why I do this, it's because I enjoy designing boxes and helping fellow car audio fans. I remember when I was new to this trying to make due with what I had. I started this mainly for the people new to the car audio scene, but I'm willing to help anyone. Each box design is it's own unique challenge, and there is never a boring box. It's fun trying to make a sub sound beautiful and get loud. I don't take shortcuts, and I will design that box to the absolute best of my capability. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask. If you have doubts or any conflicts with my design, I will attempt to explain myself and change what needs to be changed. Just let me know how I can help you :)

***EDIT: If you are local, I can get you a box built. Let me know and we can work something out.
 



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I have an idea, but I don't know if it's practical. They sell sound deadening sheetrock for walls. Would it be practical to connect this material onto the back of the wood before building the enclosure? It might help project the sound out of the box so that the box doesn't absorb the sound, and resonate. Do you use software to design the enclosure?
 






I have an idea, but I don't know if it's practical. They sell sound deadening sheetrock for walls. Would it be practical to connect this material onto the back of the wood before building the enclosure? It might help project the sound out of the box so that the box doesn't absorb the sound, and resonate. Do you use software to design the enclosure?

I don't think that would be pratical. Many people get loud and sound good just using regular .75" MDF.

I use a combo of software and my own made Excel spreadsheet to do boxes. I only really use the program for vent length and port velocity. My Excel sheet that I made factors in thickness of wood, double baffles, sub disp., port disp., bracing disp., etc...
 






Care to email me? tracker [at] themodshop [dot] net :)

I need a box for a couple 12" Comps

41" wide 20" tall 20" deep is the space I have

You can get the details of the subs from this owners manual

http://kicker.com/sites/default/files/2010 Comp Multilingual e01.pdf

Its the C12 and I have 2. Would like ported for deep hard hitting bass response

Thanks :)
 












Can I get a box that doesn't ***** all the time, doesn't have a periodical, and that puts out with out having to be drugged? OH.......Wrong box, sorry misread.......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Gotta go, dungeon master is hearkening my demise:D:D:D
 












Bump guys. I just pick up 2 18"s for me btw. I'll post my box up when I get it built.
 


















Is that 3rd picture a double baffle? If not that panel must've been FLEXING!

No we weren't completely done. We added double baffle and 2x4's in it. The box was stout. My buddy is about 250 and by the time we got done he could jump on it.
 












I know what you mean....this is my buddy who helped me build this. My old F150 in the background.

0423091638.jpg
 






Here's what I just picked up:
1003001838-1.jpg

downsized_1003001838a.jpg
 












Good news guys, I can get boxes built locally. So let me know if you want one.
 






I can't even count how many box designs I've done now.
 






Good to see someone taking the time to help others out.

What do you use mock-up the designs?
Currently, I use WinISD and UniBOX to get the general internal volumes and power handling scenarios, and then I do 3D Modeling of the boxes with an AutoCAD software (Once I get work to reinstall it on my machine)

I can assist if you need anything. I can do 4th and 6th order designs.
I have helped a few others out with some designs on here as well.

:rolleyes:;)And don't listen to anything BlackSheep says... He doesn't know what he is talking about. ;):rolleyes:
 






Also, for those in FL, and are somewhat local to the Orlando/Kissimmee area...
I can do builds at my house if you need some help getting something taken care of.

All for free of course. Just provide materials...
 



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I have an idea, but I don't know if it's practical. They sell sound deadening sheetrock for walls. Would it be practical to connect this material onto the back of the wood before building the enclosure? It might help project the sound out of the box so that the box doesn't absorb the sound, and resonate. Do you use software to design the enclosure?


It isn't exactly the best idea to do this, although it can be done. I have seen some people do it for REALLY power woofers in small enclosures, 1000+ watts in 1 ~ 1.5 cu/ft, but for larger enclosures, you shouldn't have any problems. The more accepted alternative that I have primarily seen is to double wall the front and rear of the enclosure, thus not allowing less flex in the wood.

Also, another thing to think about...
A ported enclosure doesn't have near the internal pressure that a sealed does, so this isn't generally issue in these cases.

The more common offset to avoid resonance is to use POLYFILL, which actually "tricks" the woofer into thinking that box is bigger than it really is. Some neat stuff definitely. I use it in almost all of my sealed enclosures, as it just gives it more a RUMBLE, and allows it to push just a little harder on the low-lows.
 






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