Idler pulley questions

[daffy]

Does this idler pulley look like it's on it's way out?

If so, I was wondering if people have had bad luck with the aftermarket replacement. The Motorcraft is nearly 2x the money.

Also, should I just go ahead and do the tensioner as well? The trucks got 138K on it, and I read that these things tend to go around this mileage.

Thanks!

 

[aldive]

I "see"nothing wrong with the pulley in the picture. Does it make noise? Does it wobble?

With that many miles, I would consider replacing it as well as the tensioner.

I have successfully used aftermarket parts.

 

[96eb96]

At a minimum change the idler pulley ASAP! They have a bad habit of suddenly failing and leaving you on the road with no water pump and power steering. Quality After market is fine(gates, dayco). Also, consider an online vendor such as rockauto or an online dealer for motorcraft.

Replacing the tensioner is not a bad idea either, but if it "springs back with authority," and the pulley spins well you can leave it alone.

 

[manaen]

Yeah you really cannot look at the pulley and see if it is bad, unless of course it has already flew apart

take the belt loose and wiggle the pulley (torsionally) to see of the bearings have an excessive amount of play, if so replace it, as stated it's much easier to do at home then on the side of the road.

 

[daffy]

Does it make noise? Does it wobble?

That's what I'm trying to trace down, I've got a chirp/squeak at a very specific RPM range, but I cannot pinpoint it.

I was going to go ahead and get a tensioner & idler just because of age, and so I don't have to screw with the belt twice. I hate trying to get that thing back on I figure I could spin them by hand, and see if they feel bad, if so, I'd have the replacements ready to go. I kinda remember the tensioner feeling loose at the last belt change.

 

[96eb96]

That's what I'm trying to trace down, I've got a chirp/squeak at a very specific RPM range, but I cannot pinpoint it.

I was going to go ahead and get a tensioner & idler just because of age, and so I don't have to screw with the belt twice. I hate trying to get that thing back on I figure I could spin them by hand, and see if they feel bad, if so, I'd have the replacements ready to go. I kinda remember the tensioner feeling loose at the last belt change.

How many miles/old is your belt? Maybe that is the culprit. Also, check ALL of your pulleys for play. Turns out I had bad waterpump pulley.

 

[fig]

I'd replace it. you have alot miles on your truck. Cheap insurance. I went with Dayco. There system is different from gates or other brands. they use flat steel in the windings as opposed to round common version.

 

[justchecking]

At 130000 miles my Explorer had a fair amount of noise under the hood that sounded like an accessory bearing. So I took off the belt and wiggled everything. The idler pulley had the most play so I replaced that. That fix eliminated about half the noise. The tensioner pulley also had a little play, so I then replaced that. That eliminated about half of the remaining noise. The PS pump had a lot of end play and a little seal leak, so I then replaced THAT. Finally all is quiet under the hood. After all that, I think I learned that at 130000 miles to replace everything with any play, all at one time!

I used Dayco parts, they seem to be good. I used a rebuilt cardone PS pump (and installed a filter). It seems ok, but it's looks like they spray painted right over some of the old crud!

 

[manaen]

When you replace your belt (which should have happened a few times before 130k ) you should always check the end play on everything. That is why I like doing my own mantenance, then I can be sure that everything is checked along the way.

 

[justchecking]

Yes, well, everything was just fine. Then one of the rear springs broke. I didn't have a spring compressor (or time) so I had them replaced. At the same time, they said I needed new rear brakes. So I let them do that. When I got it back, the parking brake wouldn't work. I need that to work to help hold me on a boat ramp. So, I decided to adjust them myself. Found out there was NO plug to remove to get to the adjustment. So then finally I pulled the rotors and found that TWO of the SHOES had NO lining! Now, how did they miss that? So, I started taking matters into my own hands.

So, yes, you are right, fix it yourself.

 

[manaen]

Wow that's a cluster....

 

[justchecking]

Yes. But, in the end I bought new shoes for $38, knocked off the psuedo-plugs, adjusted them myself, and tack glued the old plugs on the OUTSIDE.

Then my pretty assistant helped me flush the brakes. So, now I have a working parking brake and a firmer pedal all for $38 and a big bottle of new fluid.