If the rear hub isnt wobbly, am I ok to drive on it?

[ROBinGa]

If you don't damage the o rings while taking them off you could reuse but I would just get two new ones. Even at full retail from parts counter at Advance or Zone they are about $6 each. I bought new ones and had shop install new bearings and rings. And if you follow Makuloco video his process makes it a breeze - unless you have any rust or seized parts. My passenger came off like butter and driver side fought me every turn of the bearing puller tool using a 4 foot cheater bar. If you can get access to an air hammer, separating both my upper control links was easy using a wide chisel attachment placed right under the lip of the upper arm. I wish you smooth sailing with yours

 

[ROBinGa]

And here is another video that shows several things talked about above in this thread. It shows how to hear the noise when turning at highway speed to make bearing change pitch. Then it shows another take on removing the knuckle, but he runs into a very stubborn bearing itself. Man that would bite big time if you have this rough of a time.

 

[SyberTiger]

Fun, fun stuff....glad I survived! The bearing change out that is.

 

[Number Twelve]

Or you damaged the right rear wheel bearing during installation or used one other than SKF or Motorcraft.

I don't think so because the speed at which the roar started remained the same after I replaced the rear bearings. Then the starting speed for the roar gradually moved over the next few months so it now roars at any speed. I just can't imagine that I replaced a bad bearing with a bearing exactly as bad in exactly the same way at exactly the same speed.

 

[springwater]

If you don't damage the o rings while taking them off you could reuse but I would just get two new ones. Even at full retail from parts counter at Advance or Zone they are about $6 each. I bought new ones and had shop install new bearings and rings. And if you follow Makuloco video his process makes it a breeze - unless you have any rust or seized parts. My passenger came off like butter and driver side fought me every turn of the bearing puller tool using a 4 foot cheater bar. If you can get access to an air hammer, separating both my upper control links was easy using a wide chisel attachment placed right under the lip of the upper arm. I wish you smooth sailing with yours

True, even the Stealership's cant be too pricey.

Need to re-watch the video, but I think Makuloco uses the press to remove the hub?

I'm debating on whether to buy just the bearing or the bearing and hub ($40 more) only because it seems like the hub can be damaged during removal?

 

[lincolnshibuya]

if you have the proper tools you can't damage the hub and at a minimum you need a press to DIY.

 

[TechGuru]

Here is a press if anyone needs one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html

But if that isn't quite enough to get yours unstuck you'll need this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ton-hydraulic-shop-press-96188.html

 

[springwater]

Apparently some people remove the parking brakes and dont reinstall them?

 

[ROBinGa]

Besides parking brakes they are also known as emergency brakes. Just sayin

 

[TechGuru]

Apparently some people remove the parking brakes and dont reinstall them?

Besides parking brakes they are also known as emergency brakes. Just sayin

#1 reason for Motor Vehicle Inspection failure in Texas.

Inspection/Rejection Criteria
20.03 Parking Brake.The inspection of the parking brake (auxiliary or holding) applies only to all motor vehicles beginning with the model year 1960. This does not include motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, mopeds, trailers, semitrailers, pole trailers, and mobile homes.

Some types of parking brake may be actuated by foot or hand lever.

The parking brake may be assisted by the service brakes or other source of power, provided that failure of the service brake actuating system or other power assisting mechanism will not prevent the parking brakes from being applied. The parking brakes should be so designed that when once applied, they shall remain applied - despite exhaustion of any source of energy or leakage of any kind. If the means of applying the parking brakes and the service brakes are connected in any way, they shall be so constructed that failure of any one part shall not leave the vehicle without operative brakes. Brake lock systems will not meet the parking brake requirement.

1. Inspection Procedure. On a motor vehicle that has the automatic parking brake release when the transmission is placed in gear, the parking brake should be held down with the foot and the engine accelerated enough with the vehicle in gear to determine if it is working properly.

2. Inspect Parking Brake for and reject if:

a. Motor vehicle is not equipped with a parking brake.

b. Operating mechanism, when fully applied, does not hold the vehicle.

c. Actuating mechanism is not fully released when the release control is operated.

d. Any mechanical parts are missing, broken, badly worn, or not operating properly.

e. Pull cables are badly worn, stretched, frayed, or not operating freely.

f. Parking brake will not hold the vehicle in place when, with the engine running, the vehicle is placed in forward gear and the engine is accelerated enough to cause a pull on the braking mechanism.

 

[springwater]

Besides parking brakes they are also known as emergency brakes. Just sayin

#1 reason for Motor Vehicle Inspection failure in Texas.

Why do some people choose not to reinstall?

Are they difficult to get back on?

 

[SyberTiger]

Why do some people choose not to reinstall?

Are they difficult to get back on?

They are not "easy" but not "swearing worthy hard" either...maybe just some minor *****in'.

 

[springwater]

And here is another video that shows several things talked about above in this thread. It shows how to hear the noise when turning at highway speed to make bearing change pitch. Then it shows another take on removing the knuckle, but he runs into a very stubborn bearing itself. Man that would bite big time if you have this rough of a time.

Initially it sounded like its coming from the right side. When I drove it and "slalomed", it sounds like its coming from the left...

Without the wheels spinning on a lift, I'm having a hard time telling which side is bad.

When I did my front hub, I could have sworn it was the left so I replaced it. Turned out to be the right...

 

[TechGuru]

Initially it sounded like its coming from the right side. When I drove it and "slalomed", it sounds like its coming from the left...

Without the wheels spinning on a lift, I'm having a hard time telling which side is bad.

When I did my front hub, I could have sworn it was the left so I replaced it. Turned out to be the right...

This is one of the many reasons I say to always replace in pairs.

 

[SyberTiger]

This is one of the many reasons I say to always replace in pairs.

Absolutely, because the other side isn't far behind. I tried to convince the g/f to replace both front hubs on her Chevy Blazer because I didn't want to have to do the job twice in the same year and relearn the repair process on her vehicle. Of course, she didn't mind that I had to do the other side within 6 months. After all, I have all this time on my hands with nothing else to do.

 

[springwater]

This is one of the many reasons I say to always replace in pairs.

I hear ya.

Guess I'll buy two bearings.

Do people ever get a used hub/bearing/knuckle from a junk yard and just swap it?

 

[ROBinGa]

You could buy one from junk yard but it might be worse than one on your truck now. That would be a crap shoot. Hopefully you can get both sides off and swap out for two new bearings. It's a bit intimidating but once you dive in you can do it following the processes shown in the videos or manuals

 

[lincolnshibuya]

just make sure they are the same model year because the later years have different tie rod ball joint sizes. The 2002 I have has smaller hole than 2004 (2003?) up.

 

[springwater]

You could buy one from junk yard but it might be worse than one on your truck now. That would be a crap shoot. Hopefully you can get both sides off and swap out for two new bearings. It's a bit intimidating but once you dive in you can do it following the processes shown in the videos or manuals

just make sure they are the same model year because the later years have different tie rod ball joint sizes. The 2002 I have has smaller hole than 2004 (2003?) up.

I understand. I'm hoping to just buy the bearings and retainer/snap rings.

The other aspect that concerns me is the shop's ability to remove and replace the hub, bearing and snap ring without breaking anything.

 

[TechGuru]

I understand. I'm hoping to just buy the bearings and retainer/snap rings.

The other aspect that concerns me is the shop's ability to remove and replace the hub, bearing and snap ring without breaking anything.

I'd have Ford do it.