Ignition lock cylinder removal with PATS

[Mopar69]

2003 Explorer XLT. Where is the release for the lock cylinder and how to access it?

 

[imp]

2003 Explorer XLT. Where is the release for the lock cylinder and how to access it?

@Mopar69
Here ya go:

 

[Mopar69]

Thanks for the help. The only question I have is where the hole is to unlock as the bottom of the housing is covered with electrical connectors and the transponder ring around the lock, cant seem to see anything.

 

[imp]

Thanks for the help. The only question I have is where the hole is to unlock as the bottom of the housing is covered with electrical connectors and the transponder ring around the lock, cant seem to see anything.

@Mopar69
Only had the shroud off once, to replace the transceiver, or transponder, do not recall other details. Maybe the hole is hidden by the transponder, easy enough to remove it. Would think they would tell you that. imp

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

Can you tell me how to diagnose a bad ignition switch?

Symptoms/ actions so far
- Rare periodic no crank, hold key and it starts eventually, or turn key 2x
- Drivers door ajar error a lot
- Battery is strong
- Parked after driving 30 min. Will not crank at all
- Information center displays only hyphens, no data. Mileage displays unless turning key, then it's hyphens too
- Starter removed and bench tested: intermittent operation
- Replaced starter with reman
- Still no crank
- Found ds O2 sensor jacket worn from dangling @ driveshaft. Moved it. Small sections of bare wire present.
- Found loose ground stud at rear passenger side of engine going to firewall
- Reset pcm by disconnecting and jumping ground to positive for 20 min
- Considering removing door skin and wire boot to check for breaks

I would like to test the ignition switch but I don't know how. I have FORScan and a wifi obdii reader, but I've only ever used it to program new keys.

 

[imp]

Can you tell me how to diagnose a bad ignition switch?

Symptoms/ actions so far
- Rare periodic no crank, hold key and it starts eventually, or turn key 2x
- Drivers door ajar error a lot
- Battery is strong
- Parked after driving 30 min. Will not crank at all
- Information center displays only hyphens, no data. Mileage displays unless turning key, then it's hyphens too
- Starter removed and bench tested: intermittent operation
- Replaced starter with reman
- Still no crank
- Found ds O2 sensor jacket worn from dangling @ driveshaft. Moved it. Small sections of bare wire present.
- Found loose ground stud at rear passenger side of engine going to firewall
- Reset pcm by disconnecting and jumping ground to positive for 20 min
- Considering removing door skin and wire boot to check for breaks

I would like to test the ignition switch but I don't know how. I have FORScan and a wifi obdii reader, but I've only ever used it to program new keys.

@MyExplorer03v8Lim
The ignition switch is pretty bullet-proof, and actually simpler than earlier design. The "cue" on whether the Chip Key is being rejected lies in the red blinker light on the front of the dashboard, by the windshield. At rest, the red light should be blinking on every two seconds. If it's not, something's wrong in the anti-theft system. If it is, turning the key to ON position, lighting all the icons on the instrument panel, the red light should glow constantly, if you wait under that condition about 5 seconds, it will extinguish, indicating the PATS system has passed the key, and it's waiting for you to crank the engine. If turning the key to ON causes the light to flash quickly, about 4 or 5 times per second, this indicates the key has failed (or some component in the PATS system is not functioning properly, though I think if that happens, the lamp may not be reliable as the tip-off).

If you feel it may help, I'm scanning the ignition switch schematic for my '04, which I think must be mostly similar if not identical to your year. Each "flagged" arrow indicates feed to a powered device. For example "R" at lower left feeds a fuse which then feeds Rear Wiper Motor and Inst. Cluster, and a second fuse which feeds the Windshield Wiper Motor. Note the marked switch positions: "R" is fed power in Accessory and Run key positions. If you feel it may help you, please say the word, and I will scan and post ALL the feed destinations by tonight. Good luck! imp

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

@MyExplorer03v8Lim
The ignition switch is pretty bullet-proof, and actually simpler than earlier design. The "cue" on whether the Chip Key is being rejected lies in the red blinker light on the front of the dashboard, by the windshield. At rest, the red light should be blinking on every two seconds. If it's not, something's wrong in the anti-theft system. If it is, turning the key to ON position, lighting all the icons on the instrument panel, the red light should glow constantly, if you wait under that condition about 5 seconds, it will extinguish, indicating the PATS system has passed the key, and it's waiting for you to crank the engine. If turning the key to ON causes the light to flash quickly, about 4 or 5 times per second, this indicates the key has failed (or some component in the PATS system is not functioning properly, though I think if that happens, the lamp may not be reliable as the tip-off).

If you feel it may help, I'm scanning the ignition switch schematic for my '04, which I think must be mostly similar if not identical to your year. Each "flagged" arrow indicates feed to a powered device. For example "R" at lower left feeds a fuse which then feeds Rear Wiper Motor and Inst. Cluster, and a second fuse which feeds the Windshield Wiper Motor. Note the marked switch positions: "R" is fed power in Accessory and Run key positions. If you feel it may help you, please say the word, and I will scan and post ALL the feed destinations by tonight. Good luck! imp

Thank you! I'll definitely be researching the pats system, its a likely culprit. My dash light constantly blinks at two second intervals, keyed or no.

 

[imp]

Thank you! I'll definitely be researching the pats system, its a likely culprit. My dash light constantly blinks at two second intervals, keyed or no.

@MyExplorer03v8Lim
That's normal, when the key is OFF, even if in the cylinder. However, upon turning key to "ON", the light should light up solid for about 5 seconds, then go out completely. imp

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

@MyExplorer03v8Lim
That's normal, when the key is OFF, even if in the cylinder. However, upon turning key to "ON", the light should light up solid for about 5 seconds, then go out completely. imp

There is absolutely no change in the blinking light on my dash when the ignition is keyed on vs when the key is removed.

Also, my wifi obdii dongle has always been finicky, but now I can't connect to it at all. My phone and laptop both connect to the wifi network it creates, but they can't get obd data from it at all. FORScan says make sure the ignition is keyed on, and my obdii app just tries and fails to connect.

So I guess I should order a new obdii adapter and make sure it's a good one, but the unchanging pats light is really concerning to me. It just blinks every two seconds regardless of key position.