auburnfan138
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Frank 03GT
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I haven't done much with estimated hp/tq, mainly because I would also have to be going pretty damn fast in 4th gear to get an accurate reading.
I have done a few 0-60 runs and my times were between 6.70-6.78 seconds. That was cool to see. I figured it would still be over 7 seconds, since the stock time is around 8 seconds, and I haven't done THAT much to it.
It sure does get out of it's own way! I think it might even be worthy of a trip to Raceway Park.
I have done a few 0-60 runs and my times were between 6.70-6.78 seconds. That was cool to see. I figured it would still be over 7 seconds, since the stock time is around 8 seconds, and I haven't done THAT much to it.
It sure does get out of it's own way! I think it might even be worthy of a trip to Raceway Park.
Limited02
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Hmmm, I think you should go to the track. We have very similar mods, but you have a CAI with intake plenum and I have an electric fan. But I believe your tire/wheel combo may be heavier? Take it to the track and see if you can beat my time of 15.42
auburnfan138
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what would you suggest changing the wot shift it comes in incrimients of mph...
do i want + or - mph with the 33's?
and...
what about air to fuel ratio?
leaner or richer and what %
thanks guys
do i want + or - mph with the 33's?
and...
what about air to fuel ratio?
leaner or richer and what %
thanks guys
Frank 03GT
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Honestly, I would leave the shift points alone unless you've done something to seriously shift the powerband up. On mine, it shifts from 1-2 at around 5450 and 2-3 at around 5650, which is just about pefect for this engine and gearing. BTW, the tach on the dash is not accurate - at least not on mine. It reads about 5250 for 1-2 and 5500 for 2-3, but the digital readout on the LiveWire shows the true engine speed.
As for the air/fuel ratio, I'm sure there is a correction to make for the MAC intake. Your choices are to leave it alone, get a tune from a James, or put it on a dyno and monitor it with a wideband and make adjustments based on that - but it would still be better to send him the dyno results with A/F and get a whole new tune than it would be to adjust the entire curve up or down from the device. .
Limited02, my wheel and tire combo is definitely heavier than what you're running now. It's 65lbs vs. 56lbs for my stock wheel and tire. The 17" rims are only 22lbs like my stockers, but the tires are 43lbs. Toyo listed them as 39lbs on their web site, but they actually weigh 43lbs. I was annoyed about that because at 39lbs they would have been the lightest tire available in that size, and that's why I picked them.
As for the air/fuel ratio, I'm sure there is a correction to make for the MAC intake. Your choices are to leave it alone, get a tune from a James, or put it on a dyno and monitor it with a wideband and make adjustments based on that - but it would still be better to send him the dyno results with A/F and get a whole new tune than it would be to adjust the entire curve up or down from the device. .
Limited02, my wheel and tire combo is definitely heavier than what you're running now. It's 65lbs vs. 56lbs for my stock wheel and tire. The 17" rims are only 22lbs like my stockers, but the tires are 43lbs. Toyo listed them as 39lbs on their web site, but they actually weigh 43lbs. I was annoyed about that because at 39lbs they would have been the lightest tire available in that size, and that's why I picked them.
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