In need of locker advice

Hello my Ford peeps,

I was wondering if I could get some advice about lockers.

Here's my scenario:

I have an '05 ST Adrenalin. It will be my non-daily driver offroad rig build. I will install a 3" torsion key lift for the front and a 2" add a leaf in the rear. I'm gonna run 265/75r16 AT's (most likely Falken Wildpeaks) on stock wheels. I live in Vegas and will camp/overland in this rig. I will also road trip to Utah and Arizona. I will occasionally tow a tear drop trailer. And my wife and child will be with me. It's sort of a budget build. I'd like it to be an efficient and safe rig at a lower cost.

I am undecided on an automatic locker vs a selectable locker.

My main concern with automatic lockers is the stories of locking/unlocking at unwanted times. I've also read that I must modify my driving style with an automatic locker, which I'm totally fine with. I've also read about the extra wear on tires that come with using automatic lockers. But the pros about automatic lockers are very enticing, such as the cost. I know selectable lockers are pricey (but also a great investment into a rig).

Whichever I choose, will be professionally installed, so installation error should be a non-factor.

I welcome any and all advice. Thank you all. Please help. Lol!

 

[410Fortune]

don't count on seletable for the d35 SLA anytime soon, the last year of our front end was 2011

However some of us have been looking at a couple of new options for the D35 SLA suspension:

1. The housing CAN be machined to accept existing lockers. Who wants to pony up the money and be the first to try? I know of at least one 4 door explorer (mountaineer actually) in Colorado running a ARB in the front diff, had some machine work done.

2. Looking at the possibility of installing a later model F150 SLA differential and running gear into the Explorer/Ranger IFS
The F150 uses a 8.8 diff up front, plenty of lockers avail for that model. The diff,cv axles, mounting is way different, but it is a path I see as a possibility and if I can get my hands on the front frame section and suspension from the f150 I will mock it up we may be able to upgrade our front diff to half ton stuff. Custom CV axles maybe needed or heck just run the entire f150 setup...thanks to the F150 aftermarket it would be really nice to have that SLA suspension under a Ranger........just like always Ranger based trucks are upgraded by installing full size truck axles and running gear. Wider is better......

 

[No Pavement Please]

don't count on seletable for the d35 SLA anytime soon, the last year of our front end was 2011

However some of us have been looking at a couple of new options for the D35 SLA suspension:

1. The housing CAN be machined to accept existing lockers. Who wants to pony up the money and be the first to try? I know of at least one 4 door explorer (mountaineer actually) in Colorado running a ARB in the front diff, had some machine work done.

2. Looking at the possibility of installing a later model F150 SLA differential and running gear into the Explorer/Ranger IFS
The F150 uses a 8.8 diff up front, plenty of lockers avail for that model. The diff,cv axles, mounting is way different, but it is a path I see as a possibility and if I can get my hands on the front frame section and suspension from the f150 I will mock it up we may be able to upgrade our front diff to half ton stuff. Custom CV axles maybe needed or heck just run the entire f150 setup...thanks to the F150 aftermarket it would be really nice to have that SLA suspension under a Ranger........just like always Ranger based trucks are upgraded by installing full size truck axles and running gear. Wider is better......

Your knowledge on Fords is unmatched!! So it would be an F150 front end swap to a Ranger/Explorer?

 

[410Fortune]

yes
I need to have f150 rack and pinion, diff, cv axles, control arms etc etc all here and then we could see about two paths forward:
chop cut weld hang the entire f150 setup off the ranger frame???
or
brackets and custom cv axles to just utilize the 8.8 diff keeping the ranger frame unchanged

However most people who go down this road would in the end either:
settle with no locker
SAS
some are looking at custom crossmember to hang a ttb under the IFS frame

If I come across cheap/free F150 parts we may just find out....if I at least had the diff and CV axles I would know really quickly if its even possible

 

[Craigerz]

Maybe someone can chime in here..

I would have to double check but the part number for the Power Trax front locker for us is the same part number for the Power Trax rear locker for a Dana 35 Jeep. What gives with not being able to use another locker from a Jeep?

 

[Craigerz]

Nevermind I missed the first post.

 

[No Pavement Please]

I was warned about auto lockers and wet and / or icy roads, but I haven't really noticed any real issues since I am not in the habit of stomping on the gas pedal in those conditions. I have driven mine for hundreds of miles down the freeway, highways, county roads, etc. during heavy rain storms and even in snow. The large grippy off-road tires more than make up for the lack of slip in the rear axle. Honestly, the only time I notice the locker is making sharp turns while accelerating from a stop, and sometimes driving on winding roads the locker tries to push the vehicle straight which requires a little more steering input. I try not to get the inside tire to chirp on pavement because its hard on the drivetrain, but that's a good way to make sure your locker is working.

Thanks for the feedback on autolockers. I'm with you, I also don't stomp on the accelerators in those conditions. I've been reading more and more about automatic lockers and how properly drive with them.

 

[Jaycal559]

I was in your shoes, I use my ex for 90% off road and 10% on road now. And the majority of that 10% is driving to and from trials lol when it comes to high traction trails, (rocks, hard dirt, steep hills etc) a locker will always win. Hands down. The stock lsd does next to nothing idc what anyone says. I installed an auto locker from powertrax into stock lsd unit. It wasn’t too hard actually. No re-gearing just pops in place of lsd. It comes with a step by step guide for dummies. Lol. It works, for lack of a better name, perfect. If you use your ex as a dd, just take it easy on accelerating and turning at the same time. Because it engages under load but disengages when turning, so you can see the conflict. The unit was “onlY” 450 bucks or so. So not cheap, but definitely the cheapest solution. Cheers

 

[410Fortune]

the factory LSD works well when it is still working, they do wear out. I have seen them still working great after 200K miles and I have seen them not do anything at 100K miles? Who knows. You are right though, off road in a real traction situation, when you need them the most, they will not grip, hence the term, "limited slip"
However in the sand or snow at slow speeds you can watch them work from outside the vehicle, so they indeed do spin both tires....to a point.
The LSD in my 01 E350 van seems to work like crazy, for some reason that van will turn both tires under some crazy hard traction situations..........I figured maybe it was all the weight over the rear end? Or just the low miles (70K)
There are better clutches you can install in the factory LS to get more grip also, but IMO if you are going to remove it to rebuild it, just install the Powertrax (or similar)
Good feedback there from @Jaycal559

 

[Fire]

Quick question,

I'm looking at something for the front of mine as well (Dana 35 IFS SLA). With the discussion about Powertrax, which one do you mean??
I assume the Powertrax No-Slip (helical gear locker), but there is also the Powertrax Grip Pro (spiral gear that says it's more of a ls).

FYI, I also found 1 more that will fit our Dana 35 IFS SLAs: Yukon Dura Grip (std clutch pack LS)

 

[No Pavement Please]

I was in your shoes, I use my ex for 90% off road and 10% on road now. And the majority of that 10% is driving to and from trials lol when it comes to high traction trails, (rocks, hard dirt, steep hills etc) a locker will always win. Hands down. The stock lsd does next to nothing idc what anyone says. I installed an auto locker from powertrax into stock lsd unit. It wasn’t too hard actually. No re-gearing just pops in place of lsd. It comes with a step by step guide for dummies. Lol. It works, for lack of a better name, perfect. If you use your ex as a dd, just take it easy on accelerating and turning at the same time. Because it engages under load but disengages when turning, so you can see the conflict. The unit was “onlY” 450 bucks or so. So not cheap, but definitely the cheapest solution. Cheers

Thank you for the insight and sharing your experience with the LSD. Just to clarify, the Powertrax auto locker is not a lunch box locker, correct?

 

[No Pavement Please]

the factory LSD works well when it is still working, they do wear out. I have seen them still working great after 200K miles and I have seen them not do anything at 100K miles? Who knows. You are right though, off road in a real traction situation, when you need them the most, they will not grip, hence the term, "limited slip"
However in the sand or snow at slow speeds you can watch them work from outside the vehicle, so they indeed do spin both tires....to a point.
The LSD in my 01 E350 van seems to work like crazy, for some reason that van will turn both tires under some crazy hard traction situations..........I figured maybe it was all the weight over the rear end? Or just the low miles (70K)
There are better clutches you can install in the factory LS to get more grip also, but IMO if you are going to remove it to rebuild it, just install the Powertrax (or similar)
Good feedback there from @Jaycal559

Interesting, how the LSD works more efficiently on your van. I was contemplating and considering rebuilding the LSD. And the thought, "If I'm working on the diff, I might as well install a locker," did cross my mind.

 

[Happy Jack]

I have run a bunch of lunch box lockers over the years. I am running one now in the front and back of my 94 sport. Only trouble I have ever had is with the go/no go on the one in the back of my 94. I had trouble finding shims to get it with in limits. Had to take it to a guy I know who sets up gears for a living and he was able to find some. May have them available now. I really like them. When I would go long distances from home I would take a long the original side and spider gears. A tube of RTV and gear oil. If the lunch box locker would have failed it is a quick and easy repair to put it back to stock and get home. They are really easy DIY install. About the same work as rebuilding your LS. I have had my share of broken center pin retaining bolts. Never reuse one if you take it out. Always buy a new one to reinstall. Saves a bunch of time trying to extract a broken one. Don't matter if your rebuilding a LS or installing a Lunch box locker. Always replace that retaining bolt with a new one.

 

[sandsprayer]

I have had my share of broken center pin retaining bolts. Never reuse one if you take it out. Always buy a new one to reinstall. Saves a bunch of time trying to extract a broken one. Don't matter if your rebuilding a LS or installing a Lunch box locker. Always replace that retaining bolt with a new one.

Good to know, thanks for sharing

 

[No Pavement Please]

I have run a bunch of lunch box lockers over the years. I am running one now in the front and back of my 94 sport. Only trouble I have ever had is with the go/no go on the one in the back of my 94. I had trouble finding shims to get it with in limits. Had to take it to a guy I know who sets up gears for a living and he was able to find some. May have them available now. I really like them. When I would go long distances from home I would take a long the original side and spider gears. A tube of RTV and gear oil. If the lunch box locker would have failed it is a quick and easy repair to put it back to stock and get home. They are really easy DIY install. About the same work as rebuilding your LS. I have had my share of broken center pin retaining bolts. Never reuse one if you take it out. Always buy a new one to reinstall. Saves a bunch of time trying to extract a broken one. Don't matter if your rebuilding a LS or installing a Lunch box locker. Always replace that retaining bolt with a new one.

I thought lunchbox lockers would not work in an LSD? I thought it had to be an open diff for the lunchbox locker yo be dropped in.

 

[Happy Jack]

They were made for the LS case and I am running one in my LS case rear 94 sport. That is the one I had problems with the go/no go measurement. No-Slip Traction System