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Inspection time...brake question

00XLS

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Joined
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City, State
Frackville/State College PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
Explorer 00 XLS
Getting to be inspection time, my brakes are feeling a bit low. Just wondering how hard brakes are to do on the X 00 4dr. Prob need fronts and maybe rears, 43K on the clock. Prob gonna go with Bendix carbon metalic.
 



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Front:
First side - 40 minutes, next side 10 minutes

Back:
First side is 40 minutes, next side is 10. minutes

It's really easy to do the brakes on this truck (I have a 00 AWD XLT myself). Once you figure it out you can do it with your eyes closed. Couple thing about this truck that should be noted:

1) The front brake pad holder bolts need to be torqued down (I used 85 - 90 ft. /lbs.) and also coated with loc-tight. They are known to work themselves loose. On my 00 they had red loc-tight from the factory but I used blue.

2) The rear rotors will be rusted on - use some PB Blaster and a metal hammer to break them free. If you are not going to replace the rotors, just tap the hub part and make sure the parking brake is off.

3) The rear rotors have drums inside of them that the parking brake shoes use. Consider replacing these parking brake shoes if they are worn down although I was unable to find them at AutoZone.

I would pick up a Haynes manual, it shows how to do everything and gives torque ratings for all the bolts. Also, if you search here you can find a lot of helpful info.
 






I may pick one up, how crucial is the torque specs? I had a blazer which entailed two bolts and just making sure they were tight.
 






Well, ever since I bought a torque wrench I have found that I don't have to worry about breaking / stripping bolts anymore. I think that lug nut torque is more important because if not correct they can warp the rotors. On the brake job I've done I've always used the "RFT" method (really f'in tight). The important thing is to make sure to use the loc-tite. Several people have had the pad holders come off while driving!

The haynes manual is only about $15 and well worth the investment. You might be able to borrow a torque wrench from your autoparts store or you can get the cheap one I got from Harbor Freight:

Torque Wrench

Not the best quality, but it does it's job and has more than paid for itself.

Bear in mind that you should resurface the rotors when changing the pads, but if you are just slapping the pads in you won't have to remove these bolts at all. Actually, it's just one bolt on the caliper and it swings up.
 






Yeah I'm just replacing the pads, if they need it. I'm gonna tear the wheel off and tkae a look, I don't want to get to inspection and then be told I need pads. Just one bolt sounds easy enough. I just go really f'in tight with brakes but I'm careful not to strip it or anything
 






Bear in mind mine is an 2000 5.0 AWD, not sure what model you have but it should be similar. The caliper bolts had a low torque rating (25 ft/lbs. +/- on mine) so don't go too crazy. You take the wheels off, take of the bottom caliper bolt, raise it up, take out the old and put in the new. Then put it all back together. You'll also have to compress the piston, if you need assistance with that let me know.
 






Turns out I didn't need brakes, atleast I don't think. The front pads are a lil under a half inch thick and the rears are a lil more meaty than that. Hopefully I don't anyway. Thanks for the help tho, if it turns out I do i'll let you know.
 






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