Installed new R1Concepts rotors on front (pics)- Need help with rear | Ford Explorer Forums

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Installed new R1Concepts rotors on front (pics)- Need help with rear

Afboy143

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 23, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Tampa,FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer Sport
Hey guys,

First question- On the third pic please look at it. This is my passenger front rotor. Is this installed correctly? (slots and holes facing the correct way)

I got the R1 Concepts rotor deal which is all four slotted and drilled for $150 shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The front went on easily as I used the Haynes manual; however, I need help with the back. How in the world do I get the rear rotors off? Is it a pain? Is there a write up thread (yes I searched, couldnt find it) or a special tool? Help please! Below is the before and after of the fronts :)

Before
1412zpd.jpg


After
wjbf3d.jpg

ejve3t.jpg


Pictures of the front rotors and pads I used
2cs8jkk.jpg

20b1doh.jpg
 



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Twice on removing the rear rotors on my 97 I had to rent a three jaw puller to get them off as there was so much rust built up around the axle hub & rotor.

King Kong swinging a 100 pound sledge wouldn't have got them off.

Before you put the new ones on slather the crap out of the axle hub with silver antiseze and it shouldn't be a problem next time.
 






Your rotors are on backwards, on the rear rotors you will probably need to back the emergency brake off some, and hitting it with a hammer around the hat can help loosen it up as well.

I actually got on tech support with R1 Concepts and they said it doesnt matter the way. It wont affect performance (thank god)

These rear rotors sound like a huge PITA. So I need to back off the parking brake and get a 3 jaw puller??
 






... like the previous post states, it's more then likely your parking brake holding that bad boy on. Loosen turn the gear and bring the shoes in. If it's the o.g. back rotors, then, yeah, it's gonna be stuck on there from the years. Lil elbow grease and you'll be good! Not complicated, just time consuming.
 






I just caught you were in Florida. I was thinking you were in the snow belt reigon. You might not need the puller.

I rented one both times. If you do need the three jaw puller you need one with a minimum 12" spread to be able to get it over the rotor.

If you look you will see a pilot in the center of the axle hub where the head of the puller bolt would go.
 






So if I have this right, loosening the parking brake and hammering (or pulling) the old rotor off is all it takes? (minus taking the pads off)

If this is so, where exactly do I go to loosen the parking brake?
 






the rear rotors arent that bad just alot of hammering and sweat. i remember replacing mine not too long ago. try using some pb blaster on the lug bolts and around the center hub. soak em and that might make it easier. i wish i wouldve done that. and try hammering from behind and spin them around as you do thats what helped me the most. i do not recall having to loosen the E-Brake. good luck.
 












the rear rotors arent that bad just alot of hammering and sweat. i remember replacing mine not too long ago. try using some pb blaster on the lug bolts and around the center hub. soak em and that might make it easier. i wish i wouldve done that. and try hammering from behind and spin them around as you do thats what helped me the most. i do not recall having to loosen the E-Brake. good luck.

So all you did was hammer it from behind correct? YOu didnt loosen any bolts or anything??

And PB Blaster is the best :)
 






On the back of the dust shield there is a rubber boot, remove that and then turn the adjuster wheel to back the brake off. I just can't remember which direction you turn it.

ah thanks man!
 






big hammer.. i mean BIG hammer.. you wont be using your old rotors anyway right?

same case with mine.. it froze up in place even though i removed and loosed most of the components near or associated with the rear brakes.. the only thing that worked was a can of PBB and a BIG hammer..
 






So all you did was hammer it from behind correct? YOu didnt loosen any bolts or anything??

And PB Blaster is the best :)

i hit from the front as well and turned them to help break them from the rust build up. i hit from behind and turned the rotor about 2 inches then hitting it some more. did it for several turns then they finaly gave and came off. it is time consuming. i didnt loosen any other bolts than the ones on the caliper and some how i managed to still do it with the sheild on.
 






big hammer.. i mean BIG hammer.. you wont be using your old rotors anyway right?

same case with mine.. it froze up in place even though i removed and loosed most of the components near or associated with the rear brakes.. the only thing that worked was a can of PBB and a BIG hammer..

Oh man, his is going to be fun. All I have is a simple craftsman one. Looks like Im going to head to harbor freight and get one-- and some PBB!

and nope, old goes in the trash!
 






I just got my R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors yesterday :D
but for the front, I'm only replacing due to the driver's side being warped.

the old rotors were also drilled and slotted; got them from Napa. The Napa units actually specified which was left and right; and I would agree that your fronts need swapped. Whether or not it will make any kind of difference I do not know.

and as stated for the rear; it's going to the the parking brake shoes that do a very good job of holding the rotor on. Smack around on the "hat" portion of the rotor (which would be where the shoes are) to help loosen them up.

I always hated working on drum brakes...
 






I just got my R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors yesterday :D
but for the front, I'm only replacing due to the driver's side being warped.

the old rotors were also drilled and slotted; got them from Napa. The Napa units actually specified which was left and right; and I would agree that your fronts need swapped. Whether or not it will make any kind of difference I do not know.

and as stated for the rear; it's going to the the parking brake shoes that do a very good job of holding the rotor on. Smack around on the "hat" portion of the rotor (which would be where the shoes are) to help loosen them up.

I always hated working on drum brakes...


Ah very nice. As for which is left, which is right- an R1 concepts rep confirmed with me that the way is strictly looks. Infact, I image googled "installed slotted rotors" and some are "forward" some are "backward".

How long did your napa rotors last til they warped?


EDIT: infact look at the main pic on the r1concepts website. The rotors are mounted "backwards"

http://www.r1concepts.com/
 












Your fronts look very nice :D Have you driven it yet? How much better does it feel?
 






Ah very nice. As for which is left, which is right- an R1 concepts rep confirmed with me that the way is strictly looks. Infact, I image googled "installed slotted rotors" and some are "forward" some are "backward".

How long did your napa rotors last til they warped?


EDIT: infact look at the main pic on the r1concepts website. The rotors are mounted "backwards"

http://www.r1concepts.com/

I had my Napa rotors for ohh.... 3 years or so? and it's possible it got warped during this last winter breakup. Lots of driving, lots of standing cold water and puddles on the roads. So it may not have been a problem with the rotors themselves.

Your fronts look very nice :D Have you driven it yet? How much better does it feel?

HUGE difference. The only reason I originally got the drilled and slotted rotors, was due to the braking distance required after I put my 33's on. When I picked up my rotors, I installed 'em; turned out one of 'em I received was for the wrong application (I purchased the correct part, they gave me the wrong part). I ended up driving back in to town with 1 OEM rotor and 1 slotted rotor. It pulled HEAVILY during braking, to the side with the drilled/slotted rotor.

once I had both the right ones on, braking distance with my 33's was about the same as the braking distance required with the OEM size tire and OEM rotors.
 



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Hmmmm...
Ive been thinking for a while about getting a set of the cross drilled rotors like that...
What is a good set of pads to use with them?
 






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