Installed new R1Concepts rotors on front (pics)- Need help with rear

[parad1mg]

It took me a while to get the rear rotors off.. probably almost 30 minutes each.. PBB was used and let it saturate into whatever hole you can get it in then whacked with a big hammer around the face area right next to the studs then whacked again from the inside area.. i did heat cycle it with a torch in between and it will generally break loose soon after the abuse.. just be patient with it..

 

[gavin]

It would seem like, if they were stuck... your vehicle wouldn't being going anywhere?.......
]
I'm probably going to take your route when I do my bearings and dismantle them completely.. who needs em anyways.. they look like a complicated mess to bother with replacing them anyways.. (driver's side is already half a apart.. it's got missing pieces I took out.. like springs, n pads and other odd parts.. )

they get "stuck" because they wear into the hat of the rotor. This then creates an indentation which the shoes ride in, then you cannot remove the rotors because the shoes are "stuck" in this ridge the shoes created. Even after loosening the star adjuster as much as possible, the shoes don't completely close up; hence the need to hammer. The springs aren't exactly super strong and stiff, so they need some help to pull the shoes inwards.

 

[storlied]

Ah, makes sense.. guess mine were just so worn.. there was nothing left to even dig in.

 

[Afboy143]

Guys,
Quick question. When replacing the front rotors, you have to remove the grease cap on the spindle, a cotter pin, and a castle nut. On that castle nut when putting it back down, how many pounds of torque do I need to tighten that nut down to?

 

[gavin]

Guys,
Quick question. When replacing the front rotors, you have to remove the grease cap on the spindle, a cotter pin, and a castle nut. On that castle nut when putting it back down, how many pounds of torque do I need to tighten that nut down to?

2wd?

 

[Afboy143]

2wd?

Yes sir! 2WD Sport

 

[gavin]

Yes sir! 2WD Sport

ok, so I'm assuming you're talking about the the spindle nut... I remember in my Bronco2, it was tricky. You had to tighten to around 60'ish lb/ft then back it off 1/4 turn or something.

unfortunately I can't get you the specs right now as I'm at work.

 

[Afboy143]

ok, so I'm assuming you're talking about the the spindle nut... I remember in my Bronco2, it was tricky. You had to tighten to around 60'ish lb/ft then back it off 1/4 turn or something.

unfortunately I can't get you the specs right now as I'm at work.

Correct- its the spindle nut but it also looks like a castle nut. I remember removing it I could actually remove it by handle if I put a socket over it (I didnt have to put a ratchet on it. Just put the socket over it and remove it). I just dont want to over or under tigten it. if you dont mind, can you check when you have a chance and let me know?

 

[gavin]

Correct- its the spindle nut but it also looks like a castle nut. I remember removing it I could actually remove it by handle if I put a socket over it (I didnt have to put a ratchet on it. Just put the socket over it and remove it). I just dont want to over or under tigten it. if you dont mind, can you check when you have a chance and let me know?

yeah I should be able to look it up.

 

[gavin]

well I'm bored and work waiting for a Blackberry so sync up to the BES, so I did some searching.

The book answer is:
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Loosen adjusting nut 3/4 turn, and back the brake pads off so the wheel turns freely.
3. While rotating wheel, tighten nut to 17 to 25 Ft Lbs.to seat bearings.
4. Loosen nut 1/2 turn, then tighten to 18 to 20 INCH Pounds. (Hmmmm about like a pair of pliers).
5. Align retainer with hole and install cotter pin, then cap.
6. Pump the brake pedal a few times to remove the slack you created when backing off the pads earlier.

 

[Afboy143]

I appreciate all the help Gavin.

I have a question now. I did all four rotors. I guess since I live in Florida that the rotors came off realllyyy easily. They just popped right off.

Anyway, Now my truck pulls to the right. At speeds above 70 it shakes a lot more as well (it shaked at high speeds in the past, but its worse now). The ONLY thing I can think of is I used the wrong grease on the spindles (generic, says it was good to use on bearings) but it doesnt make sense why the truck all the sudden pulls to the right. Any ideas?

 

[gavin]

I appreciate all the help Gavin.

I have a question now. I did all four rotors. I guess since I live in Florida that the rotors came off realllyyy easily. They just popped right off.

Anyway, Now my truck pulls to the right. At speeds above 70 it shakes a lot more as well (it shaked at high speeds in the past, but its worse now). The ONLY thing I can think of is I used the wrong grease on the spindles (generic, says it was good to use on bearings) but it doesnt make sense why the truck all the sudden pulls to the right. Any ideas?

it's very possible you have a sticking caliper or warped rotor on the right-hand side. When going slow, take your hands off the steering wheel and slowly apply the brakes. Does the pull get worse when applying the brake? If so, it is very possible a rotor is warped.

doubtful it's due to the grease used on the spindle. If it were a bearing, it would slowly get worse. Not just get worse all of a sudden.

What else I would do; jack up each front tire one at a time. Rotate the tire by hand. Listen for any odd noises, and feel for any "stiff" spots. If a rotor is warped, you will both be able to hear when the warped portion(s) rub against the pads, and you will feel "stiff" spots in those same places. This will also help determine if it may, in fact, be a spindle/wheel bearing.

If the front appears good, then do the same for the rear. Except, of course, you will need to chock your front tire(s) and put the transmission in neutral.

if it's pulling to the right, then it's most likely an issue with something on the right hand side (unless, of course, the alignment some how got out-of-whack)


edit: what else it could be, is the spindle nut got tightened too much/too little. If it's too tight, you should be able to feel it when rotating the tires by hand.

 

[Afboy143]

The rotors and pads are new. It could be possible that they are sticking? Im sure the problem lies in the front rotors because this was happening before I did the rears. I also had a feelings I over tightened/under tightened the nut. What a pain in the arse! I will try the braking with hand off the wheel.

it's very possible you have a sticking caliper or warped rotor on the right-hand side. When going slow, take your hands off the steering wheel and slowly apply the brakes. Does the pull get worse when applying the brake? If so, it is very possible a rotor is warped.

doubtful it's due to the grease used on the spindle. If it were a bearing, it would slowly get worse. Not just get worse all of a sudden.

What else I would do; jack up each front tire one at a time. Rotate the tire by hand. Listen for any odd noises, and feel for any "stiff" spots. If a rotor is warped, you will both be able to hear when the warped portion(s) rub against the pads, and you will feel "stiff" spots in those same places. This will also help determine if it may, in fact, be a spindle/wheel bearing.

If the front appears good, then do the same for the rear. Except, of course, you will need to chock your front tire(s) and put the transmission in neutral.

if it's pulling to the right, then it's most likely an issue with something on the right hand side (unless, of course, the alignment some how got out-of-whack)


edit: what else it could be, is the spindle nut got tightened too much/too little. If it's too tight, you should be able to feel it when rotating the tires by hand.

 

[gavin]

The rotors and pads are new. It could be possible that they are sticking? Im sure the problem lies in the front rotors because this was happening before I did the rears. I also had a feelings I over tightened/under tightened the nut. What a pain in the arse! I will try the braking with hand off the wheel.

a couple years back I purchased a new rotor, which was warped. Likely? Not really. Possible? of course!

but yeah, find out if the pull greatly increases when braking. If so, then it's definitely a rotor/pad/caliper issue. You can usually also feel it, kinda like a very slight "jerk," when it gets to ~10mph and under.

 

[Afboy143]

a couple years back I purchased a new rotor, which was warped. Likely? Not really. Possible? of course!

but yeah, find out if the pull greatly increases when braking. If so, then it's definitely a rotor/pad/caliper issue. You can usually also feel it, kinda like a very slight "jerk," when it gets to ~10mph and under.

Well I just checked it out while driving home from a night dinner at a friends. The brakes do not pull when I brake. Its annoying that I have to keep correcting the truck which I never had to do before. I have a feeling its a under/over tightened spindle nut or the alignment is off. Man this is a pain!

 

[gavin]

Well I just checked it out while driving home from a night dinner at a friends. The brakes do not pull when I brake. Its annoying that I have to keep correcting the truck which I never had to do before. I have a feeling its a under/over tightened spindle nut or the alignment is off. Man this is a pain!

before taking it in, or tearing apart the spindle bearings, rotate the tires by hand. That can definitely help find the culprit.

 

[Afboy143]

before taking it in, or tearing apart the spindle bearings, rotate the tires by hand. That can definitely help find the culprit.

Gavin,
I performed this test. I found that the right side wheel def. does not spin as freely as the left. I have a feeling I should just replace the bearings (its cheap) and reseat them.

My question is this, Is this grease OK to use as wheel bearing grease?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40712

General purpose lubricant.


Lubricates and protects metal parts
Temperature range 0° to 300° Fahrenheit
For auto, marine, agriculture and industrial use
For grease lubricated bearings
Extreme pressure and water properties

This is what I used on both sides. The left spins freely as can be, but the right doesnt. When I pack and install the right side, I want to make sure I use the correct grease. Let me know. Thanks.

 

[blakshukvw]

Your rotors are on backwards, on the rear rotors you will probably need to back the emergency brake off some, and hitting it with a hammer around the hat can help loosen it up as well.

The direction of the grooves and holes is not what determines the correct direction on a rotor. The vanes inside do. If they are straight, it doesn't matter how they go on. If they are curved then they are handed on the vehicle. The vanes should be running to the rear of the car at the top.

 

[gavin]

Gavin,
I performed this test. I found that the right side wheel def. does not spin as freely as the left. I have a feeling I should just replace the bearings (its cheap) and reseat them.

My question is this, Is this grease OK to use as wheel bearing grease?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40712

Lubricates and protects metal parts
Temperature range 0° to 300° Fahrenheit
For auto, marine, agriculture and industrial use
For grease lubricated bearings
Extreme pressure and water properties

This is what I used on both sides. The left spins freely as can be, but the right doesnt. When I pack and install the right side, I want to make sure I use the correct grease. Let me know. Thanks.

that grease should be fine