Installing the FS10 Clutch Assembly for AC?

[koda2000]

Well today is the day lol, lets see if this works. This appears to be the right one after measuring. How crazy is it that at multiple (different companies) stores the 47881 clutch assembly was not just the wrong size, it was completely differetn sizes, like I would have thought oh their all X size vs X... nope, they were X, B, Z, D, whatever sizes lol. Some serious issues wherever their prepped and packaged.

Literally four 47881 Ford FS10 clutch assemblies at one store, all completely different sizes... least one of them seemed correct lol

I think the reason the pulley and coil was such a beotch to get off, the bearing had lost like 1/4 of the balls which basically self destructed over time and the metal shavings jammed it, even though it would still spin fine with the serpentine belt, getting it off was a completely different story. Had to go at it from the top left, to right, to bottom under the car on each corner using the compressor bolts as support with the crow bar, what a pain.

The issue with my OE A/C clutch assembly was that the insulators that are supposed to be around the outer-most piece of the hub had worn out and fell out. Then the 3 pins then metal-to-metal contact and rattled. It must have been that way for a while, as all three of the holes were oval. I guess the PO never knew what the problem was. I like the different design better. Nothing to wear out there. When you measure the air-gap on the new clutch hub, make sure the clutch part is all the way up against the snap-ring. I think that's why mine ended up closing the gap and required another spacer.

Tip: Use a tiny bit of grease (or even a tiny dab of adhesive) to hold the spacers on the back of the hub during installation.

 

[beach]

The issue with my OE A/C clutch assembly was that the insulators that are supposed to be around the outer-most piece of the hub had worn out and fell out. Then the 3 pins then metal-to-metal contact and rattled. It must have been that way for a while, as all three of the holes were oval. I guess the PO never knew what the problem was. I like the different design better. Nothing to wear out there. When you measure the air-gap on the new clutch hub, make sure the clutch part is all the way up against the snap-ring. I think that's why mine ended up closing the gap and required another spacer.

Tip: Use a tiny bit of grease (or even a tiny dab of adhesive) to hold the spacers on the back of the hub during installation.

Looks like another issue, what a surprise lol. Can't get the coil on, no room to lay something flat and tap in, and tried using the old clutch like in this post but doesn't work, if anything it feels like if I go any further it will strip the threads.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249701

 

[Bobmbx]

Just keep tapping it. It'll go. It just takes time. The real PITA is getting the pulley on. Less room to work, and you've got a machined clutch face. It helps to hold one side while you tap the other. Make sure you hit it top, bottom, left, and right too.

When I did mine, I put a towel over the face and tapped for like 30 mins.

 

[beach]

Just keep tapping it. It'll go. It just takes time. The real PITA is getting the pulley on. Less room to work, and you've got a machined clutch face. It helps to hold one side while you tap the other. Make sure you hit it top, bottom, left, and right too.

When I did mine, I put a towel over the face and tapped for like 30 mins.

Been tapping for almost 3 hours, won't budge. Even cut some wedges to fit between clutch and coil, this is as far as it'll go. Have no clue what to do. There's just no room to swing enough force even with a smaller ball peen.

Edit - yeah this isn't going to work, all that's happening at this point is the clutch is bending but coil is going no where.

 

[Bobmbx]

Just know its not you. Some coils slip right on (mine did), some are like yours. Some pulleys slip right on, mine had to be tapped on.

Its frustrating. You'll think I'm crazy, but pull the coil off and start over. Put it in the freezer for a couple of hours then install it.

 

[beach]

Just know its not you. Some coils slip right on (mine did), some are like yours. Some pulleys slip right on, mine had to be tapped on.

Its frustrating. You'll think I'm crazy, but pull the coil off and start over. Put it in the freezer for a couple of hours then install it.

Think that'll make it worse, mines too tight slipping over the groove, not the outter area. Done that with wheel bearings to get them to fit, think if I freeze this it won't even clear the lip it's supposed to slide over and into.

I'm honestly stumped.

Edit - hammered the coil directly, it worked. No clue if I damaged it, didn't care too pissed lol. Everything I read online said never hammer it directly, don't see any other way to do it besides buying a whole new compressor already assembled. Can't believe just wasted over 3 hours doing it the other way, this truck will be the end of me lol.

For all I know they pry gave me another 47881 off by a split millimetre :roll:

 

[beach]

So how did you guys screw the clutch/hub on? Says to torque it to 155 in instructions but the second it gets snug it just spins the clutch. The old one I wedged with a flat head vs using the tool the stores had, but the new clutch design is pretty flat. Auto stores don't have a holding tool for the FS10 Clutch, only other knobbed models like the original.

Searched online and looks like people had to weld up their own tool. That sucks, don't have a welder nor know anyone with a welder. I jammed a flat head straight at one of the points and forced down while tightening the nut, don't know if I hit 155 but it's as tight as I can get.

 

[koda2000]

So how did you guys screw the clutch/hub on? Says to torque it to 155 in instructions but the second it gets snug it just spins the clutch. The old one I wedged with a flat head vs using the tool the stores had, but the new clutch design is pretty flat. Auto stores don't have a holding tool for the FS10 Clutch, only other knobbed models like the original.

Searched online and looks like people had to weld up their own tool. That sucks, don't have a welder nor know anyone with a welder. I jammed a flat head straight at one of the points and forced down while tightening the nut, don't know if I hit 155 but it's as tight as I can get.

I think I borrowed a clutch hub holder tool from AutoZone. It had 3 adjustable points that locked into the hub as I recall. I didn't bother torqueing the little 10MM bolt. After working on cars all my life, I'm pretty good at knowing how tight to make a bolt.

 

[Bobmbx]

So how did you guys screw the clutch/hub on? Says to torque it to 155 in instructions but the second it gets snug it just spins the clutch. The old one I wedged with a flat head vs using the tool the stores had, but the new clutch design is pretty flat. Auto stores don't have a holding tool for the FS10 Clutch, only other knobbed models like the original.

Searched online and looks like people had to weld up their own tool. That sucks, don't have a welder nor know anyone with a welder. I jammed a flat head straight at one of the points and forced down while tightening the nut, don't know if I hit 155 but it's as tight as I can get.

Pro tip: My 99 Mounty didn't have a bolt holding the clutch on. Don't ask. Worked fine. But hand tight is really good enough.

Does this mean you got it on?

 

[beach]

I think I borrowed a clutch hub holder tool from AutoZone. It had 3 adjustable points that locked into the hub as I recall. I didn't bother torqueing the little 10MM bolt. After working on cars all my life, I'm pretty good at knowing how tight to make a bolt.

Yeah I was surprised it said 155, I just jammed it with a flat head and tightened tight. 155 sounds like it would strip the threads.

Got another problem now, stupid bypass hose cannot get on. Another almost 3 hours for this little *******. Let soak in boiling water, used some grease, still took forever to twist in and ends up at this angle to where you can't connect or vise versa. Now I got it this far and even with a vice can't get it to come off and it's already tearing wtf. So to flush this truck its gonna cost me like 75 bucks in these bypass hoses since I need another one now, that one will pry rip or have to be cut to get off, take t-stat housing off after full flushing and out in new t-stat, install another new bypass hose.

I never would have thought an American truck would be an absolute nightmare to do anything to. I road raced a Viper for years, no problem doing anything including opening up the engine. Did most of the engine work on both twin outboard center consoles. Worked on plenty of other friends cars that race. Yet here I am with a freaking Explorer/Mountaineer that you would think would be a cakewalk but is by far worst vehicle ever worked on, I mean can't even get a bypass hose on yet I can open up a V10 and work no problem LOL. But there's a certain sentimental aspect to it which is why I don't want to get rid of it, yet I'm almost at my wits end and ready to have it flat bedded to a junk yard. When all it needs is these hoses, flush it, finish brakes/rotors/bearings, and redo suspension. I got 5 quotes for all the work and all of them were between 4500-6000 since I bought all the parts already.... that's insane,could have gotten it cheaper but they would have used **** basic/generic parts right down to the brakes. Now I'm realizing the labor cost seems normal after doing all this.

If it wasn't for the sentimental aspect it'd be long gone, I want to keep it around though and do a small lift and like 32s. Gonna need a mental Institute......

Edit - this is reminding me of a shop that I had to have drill out a snapped bolt from the t-stat housing like 7 years ago, and remember him saying they despise working on Explorers lol, and that's a shop that restores old Range Rover and even Broncos etc. Now I'm understanding why lol. After talking to a few mechanics, they all hate working on these trucks. Now I know why lol

 

[koda2000]

Yeah I was surprised it said 155, I just jammed it with a flat head and tightened tight. 155 sounds like it would strip the threads.

Got another problem now, stupid bypass hose cannot get on. Another almost 3 hours for this little *******. Let soak in boiling water, used some grease, still took forever to twist in and ends up at this angle to where you can't connect or vise versa. Now I got it this far and even with a vice can't get it to come off and it's already tearing wtf. So to flush this truck its gonna cost me like 75 bucks in these bypass hoses since I need another one now, that one will pry rip or have to be cut to get off, take t-stat housing off after full flushing and out in new t-stat, install another new bypass hose.

I never would have thought an American truck would be an absolute nightmare to do anything to. I road raced a Viper for years, no problem doing anything including opening up the engine. Did most of the engine work on both twin outboard center consoles. Worked on plenty of other friends cars that race. Yet here I am with a freaking Explorer/Mountaineer that you would think would be a cakewalk but is by far worst vehicle ever worked on, I mean can't even get a bypass hose on yet I can open up a V10 and work no problem LOL. But there's a certain sentimental aspect to it which is why I don't want to get rid of it, yet I'm almost at my wits end and ready to have it flat bedded to a junk yard. When all it needs is these hoses, flush it, finish brakes/rotors/bearings, and redo suspension. I got 5 quotes for all the work and all of them were between 4500-6000 since I bought all the parts already.... that's insane,could have gotten it cheaper but they would have used **** basic/generic parts right down to the brakes. Now I'm realizing the labor cost seems normal after doing all this.

If it wasn't for the sentimental aspect it'd be long gone, I want to keep it around though and do a small lift and like 32s. Gonna need a mental Institute......

Edit - this is reminding me of a shop that I had to have drill out a snapped bolt from the t-shirt housing like 7 years ago, and remember him saying they despise working on Explorers lol, and that's a shop that restores old Range Rover and even Broncos etc. Now I'm understanding why lol. After talking to a few mechanics, they all hate working on these trucks. Gun

I don't know why the bypass hose is giving you so much trouble. I've done several on 5.0L's and had no problem at all. I got that hose from NAPA and had to trim it a bit to get it to be the same length as the one I was replacing. The AZ hose looked as if someone had already whittled the ends off with a knife, so I passed on AZ's hose and went to NAPA. Turned out NAPA's price was $3 less (which is almost never been my experience).

As for as the 155 spec, they're talking inch pounds, so that's not very tight.

 

[beach]

Hmm. I got all my hoses either from Advance, RockAuto for the Gates heater core hoses, and I got the oil cooler to water pump hose from Napa (the one that runs to the side under the bypass hose) which I'll have to trim as nobody seems to carry it, RockAuto had multiple different hoses for it which was odd and didn't want to deal with shipping a bunch of hoses back or playing around with them. The one I got from Napa is from a 5.0 Stang, went back there with the guy and was the only piece that had the right molded shape. Maybe Advance hoses suck? Closest store to me though, and online you can keep stacking discounts on multiple orders, saved a ton of $ on parts. Think these are Dayco hoses.

Maybe I didn't use enough grease, actually motor oil rubbed inside the hose, but even after boiling in hot water it barely budged. Think it was a Gates hose. Can't believe that little crap piece of rubber was like 25 bucks, and developed a tear as I had to twist the hell out of it.

And your right I've done this work to other cars/trucks, no prob, hoses and radiator hoses slipped on tight but easy, but this truck feels like I'm going toe to toe in a 5 round championship UFC match lol. Your right, it was 155 inch lbs, I checked, damn small print, all I saw was 155 and went huh?!?

But it's sentimental, got this almost 15 years ago as a gift and grandparents have since passed. I've had other cars and sold etc, this is the one vehicle I've kept all these years out of everything b/c of that sentimental aspect and hope to keep it around longer.

 

[koda2000]

Hmm. I got all my hoses either from Advance, RockAuto for the Gates heater core hoses, and I got the oil cooler to water pump hose from Napa (the one that runs to the side under the bypass hose) which I'll have to trim as nobody seems to carry it, RockAuto had multiple different hoses for it which was odd and didn't want to deal with shipping a bunch of hoses back or playing around with them. The one I got from Napa is from a 5.0 Stang, went back there with the guy and was the only piece that had the right molded shape. Maybe Advance hoses suck? Closest store to me though, and online you can keep stacking discounts on multiple orders, saved a ton of $ on parts. Think these are Dayco hoses.

Maybe I didn't use enough grease, actually motor oil rubbed inside the hose, but even after boiling in hot water it barely budged. Think it was a Gates hose. Can't believe that little crap piece of rubber was like 25 bucks, and developed a tear as I had to twist the hell out of it.

And your right I've done this work to other cars/trucks, no prob, hoses and radiator hoses slipped on tight but easy, but this truck feels like I'm going toe to toe in a 5 round championship UFC match lol. Your right, it was 155 inch lbs, I checked, damn small print, all I saw was 155 and went huh?!?

But it's sentimental, got this almost 15 years ago as a gift and grandparents have since passed. I've had other cars and sold etc, this is the one vehicle I've kept all these years out of everything b/c of that sentimental aspect and hope to keep it around longer.

I use a little non-pumice hand cleaner to help get hoses on. BTW the hose at NAPA was under $10, AZ's was around $13. Advance was $25? Wow! I was expecting the bypass hoses to be hard to install, but it was a piece of cake. Took me all of about 10 seconds to get it in place. I don't know man, maybe you truck just doesn't like you... LOL

 

[beach]

I use a little non-pumice hand cleaner to help get hoses on. BTW the hose at NAPA was under $10, AZ's was around $13. Advance was $25? Wow! I was expecting the bypass hoses to be hard to install, but it was a piece of cake. Took me all of about 10 seconds to get it in place. I don't know man, maybe you truck just doesn't like you... LOL

Opps mistake, was 14, the oil cooler to water pump hose was 25 at napa, had to get another one (bypass) since this one developed a tear and grabbed an extra just incase it tears again when removing after flushing to install the new t-stat. Bringing out the big guns today, turkey burner and 5 gallon tank for beer to boil the hoses and lots of motor oil. The upper section of the lower radiator hose was a pain also, finally got it on after about 45 min and using oil. It was so tight, so hard to get on yet would easily pop off which made no sense. It kept sliding down which was made it tough to tighten the clamp since it kept moving away from being flush, finally got the clamp tight but about a couple centimeter gap showing part of the tube from the water pump, the hose had so much tension would need somebody on the bottom jamming it up as hard as possible and me from the top pulling. Hopefully it doesn't leak.

Goal is to flush the heater core today, trim and fit the oil cool to pump hose, finish rest of hoses. Cleaning TB etc, and putting everything else back, then full flush. . Then on to the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, and brakes/rotors/bearings.