Instrument cluster bulbs | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Instrument cluster bulbs

I ordered a large quantity from Geek.com. Super cheap and works great! Lots of great light types too. I still have my dimming function too. (See LED in photo below)

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Here is an idea where all the bulbs are located:
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Do they have to go by number i pulled all mine out not realizing it and now i can't figure it out
 



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With LED bulbs, unlike incandescent bulbs, polarity does matter. And as I recall, there are two series/chains of bulbs in the dash cluster, such that if one of the bulbs is reversed, none of the bulbs in the chain will work. I used the ”test display” or a separate small battery to determine positive and negative for each LED bulb, then lined them up consistently in the dash. If they did not work in a given orientation, then switch them around, The series/chains of bulbs was sort of intuitive in a north/south string.

Good luck.
 






I swapped my cluster lights with LEDs and they are polarity sensitive but not all of them had to be lined up correctly for the rest to work. It was just a matter of getting lucky when I installed the bulb and tested it. If it didn’t light up I just removed the socket and changed the bulb contact orientation then plugged in the cluster to test again.

I recall that some of the bulbs such as cruise control have to be incandescent because those led bulbs will “glow” even when off, causing it to look like cruise control is always on. But I put leds in the turn signals and high beam sockets and they look good. I can’t remember if check engine, battery, airbag, and check gauge, etc have to be incandescent or not.
 






LED bulbs are usually a downgrade in this application. It's not the space shuttle, needing limited solar panel energy to light a few bulbs and if they lasted this long, not only would the potentially longer life of LED bulbs be unlikely to matter, on the contrary many aftermarket bulbs run hot to use cheaper/smaller LED dies and may have only a fraction of the lifespan of major brand, "long life" incan replacement bulbs.

This just isn't an application where LEDs have much benefit, unlike when an OEM puts them into a vehicle design and have tested lifespan as implemented, and did it because an LED is cheaper on the BOM when designing the entire assembly, than a separate bulb and mechanical holder for it.

Plus, if it's a colder color temperature from the LED, it decreases your night vision and causes in-****pit glare which is a bad thing.

It's not that I'm anti-tech or anti-LED or anything like that. I have done lots of custom LED non-vehicle projects, and love my LED flashlights and have even retrofitted LEDs into some that started out as incan flashlights because there was a clear benefit from brightness and runtime, but it just isn't the case with dash lighting, where several times brighter is a bad thing, and runtime is not a factor when there's an ICE and alternator to recharge the battery for lights that only need to be on when the engine is running.
 






Just be sure your box of 10 bulbs are #194LL (long life) bulbs and just #194 bulbs or you'll be replacing bulbs again very soon.
Alright, I'll get the #194LL bulbs for aunt's explorer. She's been requesting to fix a couple of bulbs that aren't working. I'll just finish installing the bumper and winch on the Wrangler tomorrow and I'll get those bulbs at the local shop.
 






LED bulbs are usually a downgrade in this application. It's not the space shuttle, needing limited solar panel energy to light a few bulbs and if they lasted this long, not only would the potentially longer life of LED bulbs be unlikely to matter, on the contrary many aftermarket bulbs run hot to use cheaper/smaller LED dies and may have only a fraction of the lifespan of major brand, "long life" incan replacement bulbs.

This just isn't an application where LEDs have much benefit, unlike when an OEM puts them into a vehicle design and have tested lifespan as implemented, and did it because an LED is cheaper on the BOM when designing the entire assembly, than a separate bulb and mechanical holder for it.

Plus, if it's a colder color temperature from the LED, it decreases your night vision and causes in-****pit glare which is a bad thing.

It's not that I'm anti-tech or anti-LED or anything like that. I have done lots of custom LED non-vehicle projects, and love my LED flashlights and have even retrofitted LEDs into some that started out as incan flashlights because there was a clear benefit from brightness and runtime, but it just isn't the case with dash lighting, where several times brighter is a bad thing, and runtime is not a factor when there's an ICE and alternator to recharge the battery for lights that only need to be on when the engine is running.
I do not disagree with your comments, but have a different conclusion. Certainly, incandescent bulbs, which emit light as a result of being heated, perform acceptably in the dash, as was designed. Incan bulbs are far less expensive. Incan bulbs are easier to install, as polarity does not matter. And a more than adequate supply of 12 volt power is available in these trucks. For these reasons, the Incan bulbs are more practical and economical.

However, I have found that the LED dash cluster lights, which convert electricity to light through a semiconductor, are one of my most enjoyed modifications. My initial two sets of LED bulbs were short lived … these LEDs looked awesome at first, but flickering and burning out was annoying and unacceptable. The technology and/or quality control seems to have significantly improved. My current set has been working flawlessly for more than five years. The LED bulbs function with the dimmer, but do not fully turn off with the lights on. But I do not recall ever not wanting the dash cluster lights off when the head lights are on, and never even used the dash lights at the very low range of light

The first reason to pursue LED cluster lights was heat reduction… after long term age and use, the incan bulbs had burned or melted many plastic connections and plastic sockets throughout the truck. Even the dash cluster bulbs were sort of permanently melted into the dash cluster. Heat and plastic just aren’t friends. I am sure you could figure that they lasted about twenty years, and that this was more than adequate. You could even figure that replacing plastic electric connections and plastic sockets would not be that bad, or that over time it would become someone else’s problem. But after removing and replacing many plastic connections and plastic sockets, and maintaining this truck as transportation and as a hobby, I wanted something better.

Admittedly, the second reason pursue this LED modification is simply the appearance. These LED light is very pleasant. I find that night travel with LED bulbs is easier on my eyes. And have the OCD satisfaction of knowing that the dash bulbs are not slowly melting the plastic connections and plastic dash cluster anymore. And this modification combines electric function and artistry; to me, it does look nice.

Certainly, there are pros and cons here. To each his own.

66F6C605-85D3-4666-91B0-1C1094A0AB02.jpeg
 






^ My dash bulbs on full brightness are already too bright, so I turn their brightness down, and this also reduces the heat as well as lengthening lifespan.

Colder (more towards the blue color spectrum) light is harder on the eyes, though it can potentially (slightly) help to keep you awake if you're sleepy.
 






^ My dash bulbs on full brightness are already too bright, so I turn their brightness down, and this also reduces the heat as well as lengthening lifespan.

Colder (more towards the blue color spectrum) light is harder on the eyes, though it can potentially (slightly) help to keep you awake if you're sleepy.
Can you post a pic?

i can not even recall what the older Incan bulb light looked like, except that they were green? I do recall that the full power incan dash lights seemed excessively bright, and that therefore this was not the setting I used.

Thanks.
 






^ Yes green, I don't have a chance right now to take a pic but here's a photoshopped approximation of what they look like... except it is hard for me to gauge the accuracy of this pic, because I'm using a huge monitor that I've biased towards a warm hue and turned the brightness down on... and yet, that would make the prior pic look that much brighter and too blue to me if I calibrated my monitor. lol, sort of the same thing I prefer for my dash bulbs, but unlike this pic, I don't have much if any light dropout around the 50MPH section of the speedo. I don't want any more light coming from my dash than necessary and if I were to think about color changes, it would be interesting to see how dim/burnt orange looks.

I'm sure to someone sitting at home in a brightly lit room this looks too dark, but if you are in a dark vehicle cabin, it's not, plenty bright enough to see without throwing more light towards my eyes that only serves to interfere with road vision. I've always been on the border between just about able to drive at night without any headlights on (except for laws and common sense, lol). Maybe I have owl eyes... :)

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Can you give me the number order for the back of the circut board on a 98 ford explorer sport 2wd rwd 4.0 manual
 






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