The ford dealership couldn't get it to have any of the problems I am describing. Then when I left I didn't even drive 25 minutes and had the same problems again. They believed it would be a plug or plug wire issue also but it would cost around 650$ or so to fix it. I really have no way to fix this here in my parking lot. I've called around and the cheapest I found was around 250$ for the plugs, wires, and fuel filter.
I might be able to get away with changing the plugs and stuff here if I can remove the inner fender and get them changed with the car on the ground and the wheels and tires on it but that seems like a tight fit.
Do the plugs ever seize in there if they haven't been changed for a long period?
I just don't want to end up damaging a head because I have had problems with that on a truck with aluminum heads I had once before.
Whether the plugs come out easy or not depends on where you live. Lots of threads recently whereby people have had a hard time getting old plugs out, but that's because of salt on the road, rust etc. Where I live, there isn't excessive salt used in winter, so plugs aren't that difficult to get out. Make sure you use anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the boots and you'll never have an issue again.
Motorcraft Double Plats go for around $5/each if I recall and Motorcraft wires run around $125 if I recall (I'm in Canada, but have purchased in the last year or so). That would mean around $165 for parts. Therefore, $250 might not be a bad deal if you want to pay someone to do it for you, especially since they'll do the fuel filter as well. Make sure they go with OEM plugs/wires for that price. At very least, settle for Autolite plugs (made by same company that makes Motorcraft). Don't settle for no-name wires. The OEM wires have built in heat shields that prevent wires from being torched. If not going OEM, get some heat socks (at least 3-4, I used them on all 8). There are some tight clearances in there.
$650 is a complete rip-off. Now you know why they're called "Stealerships".
I did NOT remove the wheel wells to do my plugs last summer nor did I remove the wheels. I find there is enough access if you just remove the soft splash shields. Careful not to tear them, especially on the passenger side (seems to be a common occurence...mine are taped together currently).
FYI, the challenge I see with the wires is they're held in there pretty good by the OEM wire looms which can be a ***** to open depending on where located. My wires are not routed in a standard fashion as I have Torque Monster Headers and my biggest objective is keeping the wires free of the headers (I've lost more than one in the past with poor routing). I also use aftermarket, tool free looms (by MSD) that snap on and off by hand. A little pricey, but I love how they work. Allows me to be creative in keeping the wires clear.
Good luck. As before, these trucks are solid, even with a misfire. As long as you're not completely running on 7 cylinders, you should be able to get around until you get the work done.
