Intermittent loss of power

[C2H5OH]

Just purchased a 93 4 door 4WD Explorer a couple days ago. It runs fine 99% of the time,but once in a while it will lose power and the check engine light will come on. Only happens for a few seconds,then runs fine again. There is no pattern to it. I'm gonna try and go to Autozone tomorrow and see if they'll check for a code. Just wondering if this is a common thing or any obvious problems to look for?

 

[Anime]

Welcome to the forums.

Checking the code will be good, otherwise a good place to start is cleaning the MAF sensor.

Could be anything from a bad spark plug, old wires, faulty coil pack, clogged fuel filter, old fuel pump, bad fuel pressure regulator, lots of things. Hopefully the code will help narrow the possibilities.

 

[C2H5OH]

Thanks for the reply. Did a search on cleaning the MAF sensor and will do that in the morning. Problem is,with all the results I found,nobody said anything about removing the Torx screws.

 

[C2H5OH]

Stupid me. I thought it was the type of Torx bolt with the post in the middle

 

[C2H5OH]

The plot thickens. Decided to go take a look at what a MAF was and saw this...

 

[awood]

Nice...
The ty-wrap is likely there to hold the connector on. Someone probably broke the lock tab off on the bottom side of the connector.

The torx screws are tamper-proof (with a post in the middle that prevents you from engaging the standard torx driver). I've seen tamper-proof torx bits for sale at auto parts stores, OR...I've heard that if you have a dremel tool, you can use it to carefully cut a slot in the screw head and take the screws out with a flat-tip screwdriver.

I'd recommend that you learn the procedure for the onboard diagnostic tests. KOEO (key on, engine off), and particularly the KOER (key on, engine running) test. There is lots of info online on how to do it. Then you won't have to keep making trips to the parts store.

 

[R&T Babich]

Check the electrical connections to ensure the PCM is getting proper voltage and ground, it may be cutting out.
Those battery connections look corroded in the picture.
If it's cutting out quick and clean it's probably electrical.
If it's hesitating or faltering it's probably fuel/mixture.

 

[C2H5OH]

So I ran the test and got code 116(cooling temperature not achieved). I let it run for a good 20 minutes before retesting and got the same code. I also noticed that the hose leading from the radiator was "throbbing" and there was clicking noise where it connects to after leaving the top of the radiator.

 

[Anime]

Maybe it has a 180 degree thermostat in there instead of a 190/195 and so it's not getting up to operating temp in the cold weather.

Which hose was throbbing? The upper or lower hose? If it's the upper, the thermostat might not be opening all the way or letting coolant through smoothly, so the throbbing could be the spurts of coolant that are getting through. Check the antifreeze/coolant level when it's cold.

Might be worth draining the old coolant and replacing the thermostat with a new one, putting on new radiator and heater hoses, and putting new coolant in there.

 

[C2H5OH]

http://youtu.be/iIFi_wnwqDQ

 

[C2H5OH]

KOEO test= 212 226

 

[C2H5OH]

Ended up being the ignition control module.