Is my fuel pump bad 1999 ford explorer shoc 4.0. Lots of pictures on the replacement

[donalds]

How can I explain this

 

[fast_dave]

How can I explain this

donalds,

Just saying - check it out:

You started this thread by saying your Ex has been acting up for the past 2 years.

That sounds like another way to say "For 2 years your Ex has good days and bad days" - am I correct in this train of thought ;-)

So, with that said, I'd wager your original post test / 1st results were done on one of your Ex's "bad days."

The test you performed today was done on one of your Ex's "good days."

OK - you said that you've ordered the repair parts - complete fuel pump assembly AND a fuel filter.

This is good as you're probably over the 175,000 mile mark when koda2000 noted that historically the fuel pumps are on borrowed time.

So, if you need "peace of mind" before your big repair job, try looking at it as cheap insurance - before ultimately your fuel pump has a "catastrophic failure."

Fuel pumps never die when/where it's convenient for you (i.e. the driveway at home), and a tow home costs way more than the repair parts you've purchased ;-)

After the repair is complete - all that's left that is original on your Ex is the fuel injectors - so a lot will be narrowed down if your Ex's erratic behavior continues after the repair.

Last thought - when you do your swap out, make it a point to look inside of your fuel tank, and see what - if anything - is going on inside there...


Hope that helps -

 

[CDW6212R]

The FPR is rarely ever an issue, virtually any low fuel pressure will be due to the pump itself. On rare occasions it will caused by a cracked/split rubber hose at the pump and FPR. The injectors also may leak a bit too much when very old or when the vehicle is not driven much etc.

If you bought the entire assembly, do install that, it will give you more peace of mind to have it all done. But usually only the pump and screen pieces need to be changed, and the pump kits come with the hose etc. Don't worry about the varying test results, pumps do weird things when they aren't working properly, they can take a long time to die completely.

Take your time on disconnecting things at the tank, the fuel lines can be very stubborn. Be prepared to be very patient there, go slow and expect it to take a while. Some fuel line disconnect tools work much better than others, I like the plastic kind that engage more than some metal ones. But I own several types, sometimes a different one works better. Put the tool on before pushing the two lines together. The trick is to get the tool pushed in all the way, with the lines pushed together. Then it comes apart easily, if the internal clips are not damaged from prior times. I had my Mercury give me hell, because one of those three metal pieces/arms was bent, and the tool didn't engage it. I'm pointing out that sometimes everything may go as it should, and there's another problem. So go very slow always when disconnecting metal fuel lines.

 

[koda2000]

The FPR is rarely ever an issue, virtually any low fuel pressure will be due to the pump itself. On rare occasions it will caused by a cracked/split rubber hose at the pump and FPR. The injectors also may leak a bit too much when very old or when the vehicle is not driven much etc.

If you bought the entire assembly, do install that, it will give you more peace of mind to have it all done. But usually only the pump and screen pieces need to be changed, and the pump kits come with the hose etc. Don't worry about the varying test results, pumps do weird things when they aren't working properly, they can take a long time to die completely.

Take your time on disconnecting things at the tank, the fuel lines can be very stubborn. Be prepared to be very patient there, go slow and expect it to take a while. Some fuel line disconnect tools work much better than others, I like the plastic kind that engage more than some metal ones. But I own several types, sometimes a different one works better. Put the tool on before pushing the two lines together. The trick is to get the tool pushed in all the way, with the lines pushed together. Then it comes apart easily, if the internal clips are not damaged from prior times. I had my Mercury give me hell, because one of those three metal pieces/arms was bent, and the tool didn't engage it. I'm pointing out that sometimes everything may go as it should, and there's another problem. So go very slow always when disconnecting metal fuel lines.

Don,
You are right about the fuel line at the top of the FP assembly being a bear to get to let go. The first one I did drove me nuts for 2 hours, then I went and bought a better set of disconnect tools and had it off in a few minutes. Part of the issue is the tool itself, I found the 3/8's size metal tool worked best for me, rather than the usual 5/16's size I use at the fuel filter. For me the bigger issue was that it is very difficult to be able to push the lines together while pushing the tool into the clip, because of the area you're working in and with everything moving around. I haven't even try to release the fuel line since, as I was only replacing the FPs.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah the design is kind of poor given the space to work with, and the fragile parts inside the female connector. It took me I'd guess 45 minutes before I stopped trying different tools, and began looking closer inside at the tiny fingers which lock the halves together. You shouldn't be able to see anything with it assembled, but I could see one end of one of the "tangs." I forgot how exactly I got it to let go, but it was a matter of one or two tiny screw drivers or awl, to force it open. Once it was apart, I could see how the bent piece was not being caught by the tool, it was bent to the side and was missed by the tool, still holding the locking ring. That's the only one I've seen damaged like that, and the next time I took it apart I had a replacement stock line to fix it. That wasn't too bad, the line runs just to the filter.

 

[donalds]

Thank for the advice on the fuel line at the tank
I have a set of the plastic ones I use on the fuel filter seems to work on that

So I was gonna spray with silicon spray let it sit then try to get them off
I will look in the tank and clean it if needed
I was gonna take pictures and Shaw y'all step by step what I did

Thanks again

 

[koda2000]

Yeah the design is kind of poor given the space to work with, and the fragile parts inside the female connector. It took me I'd guess 45 minutes before I stopped trying different tools, and began looking closer inside at the tiny fingers which lock the halves together. You shouldn't be able to see anything with it assembled, but I could see one end of one of the "tangs." I forgot how exactly I got it to let go, but it was a matter of one or two tiny screw drivers or awl, to force it open. Once it was apart, I could see how the bent piece was not being caught by the tool, it was bent to the side and was missed by the tool, still holding the locking ring. That's the only one I've seen damaged like that, and the next time I took it apart I had a replacement stock line to fix it. That wasn't too bad, the line runs just to the filter.

When working on my Ex's I often find things that make me think, I see why Ford did it this way from an assembly-line standpoint, but damn they sure made it a PITA from a repair standpoint (like the V8 radiator/AC condenser horror). I'm sure getting the fuel line connected/disconnected on a bare frame, w/out a body in the way, was a piece of cake. Likewise routing the V8 spark plug wires with an engine on an assembly stand would be much easier as would getting the UCA bolts installed w/out any engine plumbing in the way would require less swearing. Oh, and let's not forget the rear screw on the blend door actuator.

 

[donalds]

I am hopein I can get it or my 14 year old son can get it easy ...he loves this kind of stuff ....
All I can do is try I think he will get it off better than I

 

[donalds]

Ok so I just went and bought a metal 3/8 on one side and 5/16 on the other side
Like y'all said I don't want to f$@$ with it all day so I have plastic and metal line disconnect tools I will be taking my time in the lines tho

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, just knowing to look out for something should help. I hope your son grows up liking car work, it can save a bunch of money depending on what you can do yourself.

 

[donalds]

He does love car work
He is a good boy
14 and grilled in the rain

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent, congratulations.

 

[donalds]

Thanks man I may not be rich but I am very wealthy

 

[CDW6212R]

I appreciate that, our children are the greatest gift there is.

 

[donalds]

I spend all my time with my kids I hope and pray that they will be 10 times smarter than me

 

[donalds]

Ford returnlees fuel pump
So now time to change pump and filter
This is how. I did it
Relive fuel pressure
Disconnect negative battery cable

 

[donalds]

Put truck on Jack stands
Remove driver's side rear wheel

 

[donalds]

Remove vent and fill hoses

 

[donalds]

Remove 2 bolts and rubber washers on front of tank

 

[donalds]

Remove tank strap