Is my steering screwed up?

[Safeman]

I just finished putting a water pump on my 91 xlt, satisfied with the job I backed it out of the garage to warm up while I cleaned up.

As I looked out at the truck I noticed the wheels canted inward, negative camber. They're REALLY out of wack!

I took it in for an alignment a month ago and the mgr. at the tire store told me I needed $1500 in suspension work. I went to the local auto parts guy (not a chain), and he says that they tell everybody that.

Would bad ball joints cause this? Can I drive it to work? If I jack the front end up, is there some sort of "wiggle" test I can perform? i.e. the top of the tire moves in and out.

Thanks, I really need to get back on the road but I don't want the wheels to fall off on me.

 

[96eb]

Well that is something pretty simple to check yourself. You just did the water pump so i belive you can handle this. Easier if you have a friend to help. Jack up the front so both front tires are off the ground. Ask your friend to put one hand on the top of the tire and one on the bottom and just wiggle while you watch all the suspension parts under the truck.if you any excessive movement from any parts you know what to replace. do the same for left to right wiggle. If you still don't see anything mechanics are like doctors go for a second opinion. May cost you but be sure you don't tell the second what the first one said. sounds to me like a money crazy, lazy front end man. Let me know.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Balljoints are only supposed to allow <1/8" of movement or so...if it's more than that at the top or bottor (or both) you need new ones - if you're actually seeing severe negative camber you likely have a bj problem. On my '96, i did the uppers in less than an hour each. The lowers i f*d up while using a loan-a-tool press and needed to be towed to a shop and have them done.

If you take it somewhere to have them done, try to find a "specialty" shop that works on suspensions, as they'll have the right tools (press) to get the job done. Others still press them in by hand. No matter where you get it done, you WILL need an alignment and most likely a camber kit (special bolt/washer combo) that allow for a decent alignment. If you're doing the uppers yourself, get the camber kit (they replace your upper control arm bolts). If you don't, the alignment shop will likely tell you that you need it to get back into spec, and you'll be paying all over again to R&R these elsewhere.

I've got Moog parts in mine - warrantied for life AND greasable. Make sure to find out what you're having installed.

Goodluck

 

[Safeman]

Thanks for the replies. I got 4 Moog ball joints from the parts guy and he loaned me his bj press kit. I'm doing it this weekend. There seems to be a lot of different camber kits -- with different degree specs. How do I know which one to buy.

Thanks again.

Danno

 

[410Fortune]

Mark your camber shims before you remove them, unless you are installing a lift you should be able to re-install them in the same position and get the camber very close, if not dead on.

Have fun, those BJ are fun the first time
There is a TON of info on this forum about replacing ball joints, camber shims, etc.

mark yuor shims with a marker, or if you are like me you can mark them with an AWL, put a nice small dot on the shim and a nice small dot right on the beam in the same spot. If its dirty clean it up first with a wire brush.

You will also want to re-pack those wheel bearings. This is also a perfect time for new tie rod ends, brake pads, and to clean and lube the caliper slide pins