Is this normal?

[BDShort]

Went into my front suspension to lube up some things and try to find out where I'm getting my horrible squeaks from and I noticed this rubber housing underneath the control arm was shot. Is that normal? Should I consider replacing the rubber bushing?

 

[R1dd1cK]

Well that is just a rubber dust boot on your ball joint. If the ball joint does not stay lubed it will ware out faster. So if you can replace just the dust cover go for it as long as the ball joint is still good.

 

[my98nnj]

You can get new BJ covers form them. Cut the old covers off, clean and relube the joint and install a new cover.

 

[BDShort]

Do I need to take out the whole control arm to just get the balljoint out? and are the specialty tools required or do you guys have alternatives?

 

[koda2000]

Once the boot starts to disintegrate the ball joint will wear out quickly because of dirt getting in and the grease getting out. If that's your trucks driver's side original factory upper BJ, yes you need to remove/replace the upper control arm on the driver's side. Not that hard to do, but time consuming. The passenger side BJ is easier to do because of its two-piece design. I'd replace them it with Moog Problem Solvers (around $100 for both sides from RA) and also do the lower BJ's while your at it (around $25 each from RA). Figure on a full day of fun to do the job if it's your first time.

edit: If you're just replacing the boot, then no you don't need to remove the upper control arm.

 

[BDShort]

If I decide to replace the ball joints do I need the separator or is there any improv tools?

 

[koda2000]

If I decide to replace the ball joints do I need the separator or is there any improv tools?

for the upper's you don't need anything too special. hand tools wrenches/sockets of the appropriate sizes, safety stands.

to remove the lowers, you need a floor jack, a tool to release the knuckle from the lower ball joint (i used a tool for removing a drag link, but i suppose a pickle fork would work) and most importantly a BFH (aka a 3 lb sledge hammer) and WD40. you can borrow the ball joint press from the auto parts store, but i find they don't work worth a crap, however there are some pieces of the tool that come in handy for installing the new lower bj's.

you should study up on this job before attempting it. it's quite a bit more difficult than changing spark plugs. there are some good STICKY's with pics on the subject. don't just do the uppers, because the lowers typically wear out first.

you'll need an alignment when you're done.

 

[swshawaii]

The original 1995-01 UPPER ball joints are NOT replaceable, the rubber boot is.
Lift the wheel by the lower control arm and check for ANY vertical movement.

Upper
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194453
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1354542,parttype,10401

Lower
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1354542,parttype,10070

 

[BDShort]

I've read all of the sticky threads and watched all of 1aauto videos just incase ill have to do more than shocks and bushings. I'm aware of what I'm getting in to but I think ill leave it to the pros, under the assumption that if they replace the control arm an joints they'll align it free as well.

However I like getting my hands dirty tinkering with cars so I might consider doing it myself. There's a garage that opened up a few days ago, you can rent a lift or just the garage port to work on your car. They have 200+ specialty tools you can borrow and all you do is pay for the time you're there and if need be you can rent a mechanic. He can either finish the job or guide you to do it. Only like 20 dollars and hour for the garage, I might consider giving that a go

 

[swshawaii]

I'm aware of what I'm getting in to but I think ill leave it to the pros, under the assumption that if they replace the control arm an joints they'll align it free as well.

First time I've heard of a free "complimentary" alignment, regardless of work done.
This is how shops make their money, not from free inspections, tire rotations, etc.
NEVER assume anything, especially when it comes to ANY type of repair. Good luck.

 

[BDShort]

I was assuming they'd align it after changing instead of adding an alignment fee to the originally parts and labor. Ill just ask around before hand. Gonna have to put off for a bit anyway so I can pay the current fee and my speeding tickets.