It's engine rebuild time! Help build the dream v6

[Christopher Johnson]

The project is complete!

I have to say that I am extremely impressed by the work involved in this project. My sincere thanks to my mechanic for making a job so complete. The whole 95 Explorer was checked front to rear and all things needing resolutions were fixed above and beyond my engine and transmission rebuild.

My impression: It's "peppier." What other word can I use to describe a seat of the pants feel? The engine obviously pulls harder and more spontaneous. It is no hotrod but it is fresh, new, and has some guts. The shift kit to the transmission was a very smart move. Shifts are spontaneous without the stock bog when pushing the pedal down.

Additionally, the computer is still learning. The idle was extremely rough at first but it has now smoothed out very well. The sound is slightly louder but not by much. The check engine light blinked twice and that was all. This was during acceleration. Do note: The check engine light used to come on a LOT before.

Finally, I still plan on changing all four O2 sensors next month. I was cost limited at this time. So, my final cost to totally refurbish my Explorer will be another $450 I think. I don't plan on using aftermarket for sensors. I also plan on making a custom burned speedchip which will set back another $450 I think.

What I am going to do is outline in full detail what I did to my truck. I'm going to account for every nickle and dime for those who are interested in going this path:

[General Services - Detailed]
- Rebuilt Starter - 125.00
- New Water Pump - 67.78
- New Pinion Seal - 18.24 (found to be leaking)
- New U Join - 16.84 (found to be loose)
- New Spark Plugs - 30.00 (of course!)
- New Thermostat Stock Temp - 7.61
- New Belt - 40.44
- Ceramic JBA Headers - 550.00
- Clean out radiator - Free
- Paint all brackets shiny black - Free
- Paint engine grey - Free

[Mechanic Invoice]
- Total Labor - 1,445 (Removal and Reinstallation)
- Total Materials - 397.38

[Total Transmisison Invoice]
- Shift Kit Plus Tranny Overhaul - 1,650

[Engine Parts]
- Competition Cam 49-410-8 - 227.62
- Cam Bearing Set - 18.04
- Chain Tensioner - 38.10
- Oil Pump Inter. Shaft - 18.42
- Oil Pump - 103.78
- Gasket Kit - 115.45
- Cylinder Head Bolt - 36.44
- Rod Bearing Set - 47.87
- Main Bearing Set - 47.87
- Prem. Ring Set - 112.52
- Cast Pistons - 195.54
- Lifters/Lash Adjuster - 277.20
- Push Rods - 26.52
- Valve Springs - 17.88
- 4.0 Rod Bolts - 56.88
- Rear Main Seal - 51.49
- Ertel Engine Parts - 23.04
- Cloyes Timing - 31.81
- Cam Gear - 25.63

[Engine Work]
- Vat Block - 25.00
- Intl Freeze Plugs - 10.00
- Install Cam Bearings - 18.00
- Disassemble Complete 6 Cylinder - 80.00
- Assemble Complete 6 Cylinder - 280.00
- Bore & Hone 6 Cylinders - 70.00
- Balance Engine - 100.00
- Install 6 Pistons on Rods - 22.00
- Performance Valve Job 6 Cyl - 125.00
- Mill V6 Heads - 35.00
- Magnaflux V6 Heads - 12.00
- Instl Bolt & Recon 6 Rods - 50.00
- Check Rod Bearing Clearance - 9.00
- Micropolish Crankshaft - 25.00
- Port Bowls, Smooth Intake Runner, Taper Guide Bosses & Remove Bump in Exhaust Ports - 250.00
- Recondition Rocker Arms - 40.00

[Total Engine Invoice]
- Engine Parts - 1,447,87
- Engine Labor - 1,151
- Shop Supplies - 12.00
- Total - 2,725.55

[Invoice Summary]
- Engine - 2,725.55
- Transmission - 1,650.00
- Mechanic - 1,842.38

[Grand Total]
- Total Cost - $6,217.93


Sounds quite steep at first until you consider that I did a little more than the standard. I also believe I saved some costs with the synthetic oil I have been using from 30,000 miles to 105,000. I chose a bang for the buck approach and didn't go cosmic.

Well, I hope this complete rundown will help those who may consider a complete rebuild front to back. This cost is for the Oklahoma City area.

I justify this cost to myself in this way:
- I am single!
- The car new was $35,000 and the interior and paint is still prestine with additional improvements: buff stereo components, beefy sway bars, larder throttle body and mass air flow, kkn air filter, shocks, borla catback, and jba headers.
- The car is paid for.
- The loan will be paid off by Christmas with stepped up payments.
- It's a whole hell of a lot better than buying another expensive vehicile.

So, time for me to update my signature and perhaps chose a nickname for my new and improved 95 Explorer "Expedition". I already know that particular model and year is rare and I am wondering if the work done will be appreciated in inner circles.

I could easily drop in a supercharger without much concern for the motor at this time....so tempting.

Regards,

Chris

 

[fordkrazy]

well im glad everything worked out well for you. are you going to get it dynoed?

 

[Christopher Johnson]

Maybe

I am thinking about it. I think I know of a place that can do it but I need to make sure its not a motorcycle dyno first

I estimate a 15% improvement plus, of course, the extended life of the engine and trans. I think a 24 hp improvement is reasonable. When you think about it, I really didn't do anything cosmic. Heck, there really isn't a lot you can do to this motor without being a tad crazy on costs.

I really can only think of a few things left:
- K&N Open Filter Kit
- Jacobs Ignition
- Hi-flo Catalytic Convertors
- Custom Tuned Chip
- Blower

Also, I am thinking of changing gears if that will help off the line acceleration with overdrive being the same for highway mileage. Recommendations? I have no clue what my gear is on this 95 Explorer Expedition.

 

[Christopher Johnson]

Checked my axel code

Its a D4 - Limited Slip - 3200 Capacity - 3.73.

Question: What would 4.10 gears do for me?

I'm not too smart on this area yet.

 

[fordkrazy]

i think that you are right on. im running 3.27 open and off the line is a tad under powered but i have the 5-speed, an automatic would handle that problem better so if you have the 3.73 i think you are fine. anything lower and you will be sucking into your gas mileage and engine life. i would only go lower if you put significantly bigger tires on it like 32s or 33s. i would definately do your other mods you listed first.

 

[Christopher Johnson]

Yeah I'm pretty much without much options left.

I just need to get all the right specs together and custom burn a chip. I don't think things will be prime until I do that.

 

[SteveVB]

Well the cam has a power band thats supposed to be 300-400 rpm higher than stock, switching to the 4.10s would help keep the engine in the new higher range. All of the add on mods also move the rpm range up somewhat - not to the extent of the cam- but in total I would bet the new range would be 4-500rpm higher. The switch from 3.73 to 4.10 is about 10% and IF you assume that the mods you have done raised the torque and hp peaks up 10% then the gears should be of some benefit, and not too harsh on the mileage.

That said, I would first spend the money on a cone filter, and some dyno tuning time - that should tell you what you need next, a custom chip? more fuel?. Is the granatelli MAF adjustable? if not I guess the custom chip would be the next step.

Im running basically the same setup as you (cam,headers,maf,tb) and with 31" tires my 3.55s need more gear - I think Im going to get 4.56 and 32 " tires. Im going to run 4.56s that should keep the engine where it needs to be with the larger tires.

 

[Glenn Biggs]

Heads??

I cracked one of my heads on my 92 Exploder. That's what I get for buying cheap fuel!!! I would like to upgrade to the later model heads. Do any mods have to be done to the lower intake manifold, or does it fit perfectly onto the heads and block? I have upgraded the MAF, TB, drop in K&N, added headers w/cat back, and have installed the biggest cam that can be put in a stock 4.0. Don't really have time to mess with high performance, but would like that extra compression. Any response or suggestion is appreciated. Thanks.

Glenn

 

[Christopher Johnson]

Dyno

By going through Dynojet.com I got in touch with a local dyno shop 5 miles from me. Starting in May they will be able to dynotune computer chips using Diablo software and their chips. I think the only way to make all my mods prime is to do this. But, I have to wait till May when they get setup to do this.

I thought that this is a great thing happening to the Oklahoma City area.

When I am done I will scan in the graphs but we all have to wait

Glen, I am no pro on heads--but I think the guys in this thread can help you.

 

[SteveVB]

No problems with the late model heads

The late heads shouldnt be a problem, they will bolt to the block, the intake and the exhaust with no modifications. The exhaust ports are shaped differently, but the bolt holes are the same.

Should increase compression by 1 point, if they are the 98tm castings-from info I gathered the 93TM? and the 95TM have same combustion chamber volume, but have some water passage changes to reduce cracking probs.

Do a search of the site- there was a pretty extensive thread on the installation of the late model heads- dont remember the name though.

What cam are you running when you say the largest?


Have fun.

 

[Glenn Biggs]

Duno!

I ask the mechanic that replaced my engine in 98, all he knew was that it was the biggest he could put in the stock engine without mods. I thought my receipts had that info but I was wrong. To bad I don't have the time to do the mods. I have to ship my truck to Italy by end of April.

 

[Christopher Johnson]

Fordkrazy

Fordkrazy,

When your back in the Oklahoma City area give me a shout in this thread and you can check out the work done on my Explorer so you can see if this is what you want done. We can also go for a ride as well.

Just so you know how the post experience has been:

My Granatelli Mass Air Flow was dorking everything to hell. I pulled it out and put the stock one in 2 minutes flat and the truck is much better now.

The O2 sensors were bringing up codes so I'm replacing them Monday.

A diagnostic showed a vacuum leak before the charcoal canister. I will try and resolve this Monday.

I replaced the throttle position sensor today for good measure.

So far without doing the O2 and the vacuum leak I haven't had any codes since I took out the Granatelli but I am still going to replace those items that coded before.

I am trying to repair all items that bring up codes even intermittently before I dyno tune a chip next month. I want at least 2 weeks of clean codes if I can. There is a shop in Midwest City right by Tinker AFB that will start doing this next month bro.

Looking at everything I have done since the project started I have to admit I learned a lot about my Explorer. There is something for not leaving anything unturned when going through a refurbishing project.

I'm still tickled pink by the shift kit.

 

[fordkrazy]

cool man...well i am running the 5.0 swap around in my head right now and im trying to get together a pretty good estimate of what it will cost. so far (aside from the headaches of fitting the damn thing in there) im not to far ahead of you on costs. im guessing that 7g's would be more than enough for the 5.0 and the t-5. well i may take you up on your offer to take a ride around. ill let you know when i got time...school is keeping me very busy now and also summer job hunting.

 

[Gremlin]

Anything I can do to help?

Hi Guys, please forgive my intrusion, I build the below stuff for the Explorer Brothers and have been doing stuff like this for 28 odd years...

Any info I can help with let me know, I lean more towards building Custom EFI systems which may/maynot be of help

again sorry to intrude.....

Mike.


further info:-http://members.optushome.com.au/gremlin460/EP2.html

 

[flyguy]

Hey guys...im trying to decide what I should do with my tax refund... its either, a new computer.... a dontation to the supercharger fund or a good deal of a polish and port for my heads and intake. what I would like to know is how much am I looking at for a complete port and polish job? I saw the price list above, but Im not sure what is all that I need done. I already have the 98tm heads on... just havent polished em up. Also...is it worth the cash? or would I be better off getting the supercharger first?

nick

 

[SteveVB]

Nick, I would think that bang for the buck, the SC would be the way to go. Head work wont give you what the SC will.

The valve job, and head work were 375 on Chris's engine, and I was quoted 300 for the bowl work, and 170 for the 5 angle valve job so I would say 4-600 dollars as a guess, but take your heads to a shop and have them take a look give you a quote. I havent looked at the cost of installing larger valves but I would guess that the costs would be from 900-1000 dollars for the larger valves and the extra work to install them.

If you are seriously thinking of the SC then it may be worth while getting the work done to your original heads with the lower compression.

 

[flyguy]

Hmm... is the higher compression heads bad with the supercharger? I was hoping to keep em. Hmm...so the head work is in my budget at least...im considering it. Now is that price with me taking the heads off myself? Or does the shop do that?

nick

 

[Christopher Johnson]

Well my cost was cheap since it was part of a complete rebuild of course.

I think there was some more head work possible but I wasn't inclined to get too radical. My main concern when doing what I did to my engine was doing everything in complete unison.

All in all the horse power gains weren't a lot but when compounded with everything else that starts to add up.

I'm still completely convinced I'm not seeing my real potential until I dyno-tune burn a chip.

So what to do with a tax refund...hmm thats a tough question. I'd almost be inclined to say just save it for now. Was your engine rebuilt already Flyguy?

I was tempted myself to go the supercharger route and could have easily come up with a loan to do it. But, after thinking things through and looking at my mileage at 100k, I elected to go the engine rebuilt first then do the supercharger second. I REALLY wanted to do the supercharger considering it would have involved half the cost but seeing where my engine was destined, I chose the patient choice.

I still plan on that supercharger...but custom chip first to see how content I am.

How many miles on your engine Flyguy?

 

[Christopher Johnson]

That cost is you taking the heads off yourself I think.

 

[flyguy]

80K on the engine... but my dad says its a new car after all the stuff we have put into it... it hasnt had a real rebuild... but it has had a nice cleaning out when I did the head swap. I had some build up on the pistions though... I really dont know what I want to do. It sounds like that getting the heads ported wont do me a whole lot of good. If its only 5hp or so.. Forget it. Ill save for the supercharger... then maybe down the road when it comes rebuild time, Ill get the heads worked on... (I would like a cam too!)

nick