Jack and Jackstand Placement?

[wiscguy]

I have to bleed my brakes (when I get close to stopping such as at a traffic light, the pedal goes to the floor).

Where is a safe place to put the jack and stands? My goal is to do the back then front, two wheels at a time.

If someone could provide me an illustration or pic of some sort it would be appreciated (Im still learning and dont know what everything is called). Or a good description in layman's terms.

Thanks

 

[RomeovilleIL]

You dont need to have the truck on jackstands with tires off to bleed the brakes. Just crawl under and turn the bleeders with a wrench from behind the tire.

How do you know the brakes need to be bled? The only time air gets into the system is when it is openned, such as when parts are replaced. If you did not just recently (like immediately before the pedal issue) have a brake job completed, then your problem is a leak or something else causing loss of pressure.

 

[wiscguy]

No I believe its from the brake job. My dad showed me how to do it and the issue started immediately after.

Thanks for the info though. Glad I dont have to lift it.

He was going to show me how to do that too, but I had to get back home for work and was pressed for time (2 1/2 hours away)

 

[dcdyd]

I couldn't find a point where I can just use jackstand to lift the tire so that I don't need to use the jack to hold it. Otherwise as soon as I try to remove the jack, the tire comes down and touch the gound. This is probably because the spring is too old to hold the tire.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Bleed is one wheel at a time, starting farthest from the master cylinder. RR then LR then RF then LF. There is a cheap tool in the help section at autoparts stores call the 1-man bleeder. It pressurizes the brake lines. Otherwise you'll want a helper to push the brake pedal for you.

Crack open the bleeder, push pedal down until you get a steady stream out of the bleeder (meaning no sputter with air), and close bleeder while mid-stream (pedal being pushed down) so air isnt allowed to suck back in during piston retraction. Make sure the resevoir stays above the minimum level (and cap or tool is on to maintain pressure) while bleeding. Top off to max when done.

BTW - be careful to clean up the brake fluid. If it soaks your pads you will have little stopping power & it eats paint.

 

[wiscguy]

Bleed is one wheel at a time, starting farthest from the master cylinder. RR then LR then RF then LF. There is a cheap tool in the help section at autoparts stores call the 1-man bleeder. It pressurizes the brake lines. Otherwise you'll want a helper to push the brake pedal for you.

Crack open the bleeder, push pedal down until you get a steady stream out of the bleeder (meaning no sputter with air), and close bleeder while mid-stream (pedal being pushed down) so air isnt allowed to suck back in during piston retraction. Make sure the resevoir stays above the minimum level (and cap or tool is on to maintain pressure) while bleeding. Top off to max when done.

BTW - be careful to clean up the brake fluid. If it soaks your pads you will have little stopping power & it eats paint.

Cool thanks for all the info. Very helpful. I appreciate it.