Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build | Page 53 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

im far enough in this to not turn back, so ill start this thread now.

starting with a truck that hasent been driven in 2 years before i got it. so its really dirty, ticks, needs some help.
im going for a mild top end rebuild. just a nice cleaning and new parts, upgraded performance parts. with a nice coat of paint to finish it up.
update: turned into full rebuild


parts list:
  • 2643 ANCHOR - drivers motor mount (rockauto)
  • 2641 ANCHOR - passenger motor mount (rockauto)
  • SP432 MOTORCRAFT - spark plugs (autozone)
  • WR4062 MOTORCRAFT - plug wire set (rockauto)
  • KS2358 FELPRO - full gasket set (autozone)
  • PR422 DNJ/ROCK ENGINE - pistion ring set (rockauto)
  • m328 MELLING - high flow oil pump (summitracing)
  • 432217 VISTA-PRO - ready rad radiator (summitracing)
  • E71531 DAYCO - upper radiator hose (autozone)
  • B71532 DAYCO - lower radiator hose (autozone)
  • 200-87684 DAYCO - heater-to-thermostat hose (autozone)
  • 200-87715 DAYCO - heater-to-water pump hose (autozone)
  • 58390 A-1 CARDONE - reman waterpump, they sent a 97tm (rockauto)
  • 300-942 DORMAN - water pump pulley (rockauto)
  • 300-004 DORMAN - power steering pulley (autozone)
  • 49237 GOODYEAR - belt tensioner (rockauto)
  • 5968 HAYDEN AUTOMOTIVE - idler pulley (rockauto)
  • 49-410-8 COMP CAMS - camshaft (summitracing)
  • R1092 SEALED POWER - rocker arms (rockauto)
  • VS1630 SEALED POWER - valve springs (rockauto)
  • sev-2027 SI VALVES - exhaust valves (sivalves.com)
  • sev-2028 SI VALVES - intake valves (sivalves.com)
  • UP94172S ULTRAPOWER - timing chain kit (rockauto)
  • 25053 CRANKSHAFT SUPPLY - reman crankshaft with bearings (rockauto)
  • 70mm 94/95 Mustang GT Cobra 19/24lb MAF (ebay)
  • ebay link - 90tm/93tm cylinder heads
  • ebay link - matched set of injectors
  • EF link - modded stock throttle body
  • GM3115200 chevrolet HHR electric fan from EF member
  • FAN-PWN-V3 SPAL fan controller from EF member
  • 1633S-1 JBA - headers and y-pipe used from EF member

later upgrades: 200amp alternator, underdrive/overdrive pulleys. maybe other stuff as i get ideas
 



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didnt you take your covers back off to replace to fix your over-strength and cork gaskets? you didnt see anything then did you? i think yours are good then lol


its to much fun teasing you about it. atleast now you have ammo on me :/



in other words, i got pulled over for 20% tint in my grandpas truck. he bought it that way, already installed from a dealer too
 



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Tooo late!!OMG what a storm!!
 












if they aren't tight stream will get out them and mix with the oil.most will vaporize and stick to the covers like it did.should be fine after changing the oil,the rest will vaporize and burn up eventually.yea just got off work,going to chill out for a min/hour and load up and ill be through.did you pure any oil in something clear and see if it separated?
 






maybe thats what it did. i put the oil in an old tire shine bottle and its not separated at all


i just witnessed duck sex. :/
6 males and 1 female landed directly in front of me, i really do mean directly in front of me. and proceeded to fight until one won the battle and screwed her lolol
 






almost there! intake, intake hose, alternator, coolant, oil, ac box, wires to be plugged in and im done!

got all 12 springs out and replaced quick as hell. i wanna say that was 3hrs?
for anyone that needs to replace springs or valve guides. you HAVE TO remove the ac box for the rear passenger cylinder intake and exhaust. all 10 other springs will come out just fine. ac box literally took 3minutes to remove.


pic of duck ****. i had them show me their IDs, they are all over 18, and got their consent to post this. lol
DSC_2297.jpg
 






I know i didnt say this but DONT reuse the oil or filter that came off it!!
 






i already put it back in :( you make things difficult






jk, why would i put that nasty crap back in when i have a new 5gal jug? :p
and how long did you want me to go on the new oil? until 500 or sooner cause the water?

edit: want me to grab new plugs while im at it? they arnt that much, i gotta return the seals i bought anyway lol
 






500 and i would man.plain ngk are like $1 a plug
 












only have a couple minor things left if you wanna start on your way or not.


and you were right, those wasps were alive. i saw it moving :/
a few days before there was 2 there and they never moved at all so i thought they were dead lol
theyre dead now!
 






Just woke back up.she running?
 


















and its running. fix valve stem seals, longer pushrods, tightened coolant plugs in passenger head, changed oil&filter, new motorcraft copper plugs, new gaskets, fought wasps above the garage(one is still trying to get me)






ps, jd your bike is loud :p
 






how many of the heat cycles&venting should i do jd? i did 3 more today.


question for anyone that knows:
a stock engine is non-interference, if the belt breaks the valves simply will not hit the pistons.
the 410 cam 'lifts' the valves higher, meaning it pushes them open more in the cylinder?
if the answer is yes, will it still be non-interference with the valves opening up more?

same question again, but for the 422 cam? (just wondering)
 






how many of the heat cycles&venting should i do jd? i did 3 more today.


question for anyone that knows:
a stock engine is non-interference, if the belt breaks the valves simply will not hit the pistons.
the 410 cam 'lifts' the valves higher, meaning it pushes them open more in the cylinder?
if the answer is yes, will it still be non-interference with the valves opening up more?

same question again, but for the 422 cam? (just wondering)

I can answer one part.. If the belt breaks, nothing bad happens inside the engine since the only "belt" is the serpentine belt out front running the accesories.

Now if the chain were to somehow break, I can't answer if its now an interference engine but I doubt its moving the valves that much more.

~Mark
 






As long as your cam doesnt exceed .500 lift and your heads are not planed more than. 030 and you dont have a breakage in valve spring or some crazy separation of a lifter,you will never hit.this is with any piston besides the sohc.there is about. 600 clearance, dont quote me,have to find my specs.i had a valve stick wide open with my shaved heads and the 422 and cleared.i had or have a thread about it somewhere.also i would do as many none stress heat cycles as possible till you see no steam,then drive very light footed till you change the oil again.that video still sounds WAY louder than what it really is!!! In person it sounds fine besides that one stubborn lifter,but like i said worn,used lifters and bad oil,its hard to tell now!! Truck sounds mean now and after the oil cleans out should be good to go!!;)
 



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Yea just watched the video again and you really need something better to rec with,even the exhaust sounds like poo!!im telling everyone the motor is way quieter and the exhaust sounds mean in person!!;) ps that was my fully built race supermoto bike;) haha yea the fmf pipe is stupid loud and yea i had to hit a half a block wheely off!!hahah SORRY;)
 






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