Just changed front bearings, having strange issues. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Just changed front bearings, having strange issues.

Speaking of welding, There is a trick to removing outer bearing races from a housing or casting. If you weld a bead (MIG) along the center of the race surface, then quickly turn the peice over and tap it on the floor, the race will typically fall out. The steel deforms from the heat and it typically draws the circle of the race closer making it a less tight fit in it's bore.

We did this with forklift brake drum/hub assemblies where I used to work to get the races out. Yeah I could have used a press or hammer and a punch, but I thought it was clever.

Just food for thought...
 



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i've had bearings weld themself to the spindle due to not being packed after water crossings and such.. i think thats what he is referring to not actually being welded but heating up to the point in which they stick as if they are welded.

again races? those are inside the rotors. i never seen the race, welded. the sheer heat from welding would just make the race unusable.
 






i guess i've always heard the inner and outer most parts of the bearings also referred to as "races" like with my situation the inner bearings fell apart (all the cylindrical bearings and the outer ring which has all the groves the cylindrical bearings sit in came apart from the inner ring) and that inner ring or as i know it as the inner race was "welded" to the spindle due to excessive heat.
 






Speaking of welding, There is a trick to removing outer bearing races from a housing or casting. If you weld a bead (MIG) along the center of the race surface, then quickly turn the peice over and tap it on the floor, the race will typically fall out. The steel deforms from the heat and it typically draws the circle of the race closer making it a less tight fit in it's bore.

We did this with forklift brake drum/hub assemblies where I used to work to get the races out. Yeah I could have used a press or hammer and a punch, but I thought it was clever.

Just food for thought...

you weld a bead on the race and let it cool before you tap on it. allowing it to cool will deform the race more than it would if it was still hot
 






Yes the races are press fit. you can typically drive them out with a hammer, but reinstalling is a bit trickery, and is typically best done on a press.
 






You can as I always have done and was shown how to do tap a race in. but you must use a soft brass drift and make darn sure it is square in the bore. They do make a driver just for it along with driving seals into place. I always found I can get them in right once there started as that is the hard part getting them started as one side always wants to pop out.
now that welding trick to remove bad races may try that some day if I ever run across a bad race again but its been so many years now and I hope many more be fore I see another one .

Some I believe were confused the races are not welded in to be used there only welded to remove them. The term of a race was welded means only that it became heat seized to the spindle and if hot enough it can damage the spindle also but that may not show tell it breaks under load and your wheel races you down the road.
 






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