Key Fob Help | Ford Explorer Forums

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Key Fob Help

Joined
March 27, 2006
Messages
38
Reaction score
2
City, State
`Caneyville kentucky
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 XLS
I purchased my first Explorer recently, 2002 Xls model. It didn't come with the key fob and I'm not really sure if it's equipped for it or not. I tried the turning of the key off and on 8 times but the door locks don't cycle. In the owners manual it says it is necessary to have all (maximum of four — original and/or new) of your remote transmitters available prior to beginning this procedure. Will the Explorer enter programming mode without having a fob available or is it necessary to have one on hand if I'm just trying to see if it's equipped?. Hate to purchase one and it not work on it. It has the passive alarm system so I figured for sure it would have remote entry.
 



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Chances are if the locks didn't cycle after the remote programming procedure, vehicle wasn't equipped with RKE. Try this:

Select vehicle, enter VIN, click minor features. Should specify WITH or LESS Keyless Entry System in minor features. GL

https://www.etis.ford.com/
 












^ Good point. Wasn't standard on my 2005 ST XLS. Bought a $35 Viper 211HV from Amazon. PITA install, but good value.
 






I thought keyless entry was standard on XLS's...

You are aware that 8 turn is supposed to be done with the driver's door open right?

Well, I was wondering about that, but when I open the driver side door the interior light doesn't come on like the other doors so the door ajar switch must be bad. Would this prevent it from going into program mode?
 






^ Good point. Wasn't standard on my 2005 ST XLS. Bought a $35 Viper 211HV from Amazon. PITA install, but good value.

I'd personally go with this CodeAlarm CA1053 http://www.ebay.com/itm/131106971502

DEI (Directed) products are overrated IMHO, lol. and CodeAlarm uses a normal siren, not that annoying 7 tone one.

BTW, there is no reason to waste time installing the starter kill relay in these alarm kits since we have PATS.
 






Well, I was wondering about that, but when I open the driver side door the interior light doesn't come on like the other doors so the door ajar switch must be bad. Would this prevent it from going into program mode?

No idea if it "must" be the drivers door. Have you tried the WD40 fix for the switch?
 






Chances are if the locks didn't cycle after the remote programming procedure, vehicle wasn't equipped with RKE. Try this:

Select vehicle, enter VIN, click minor features. Should specify WITH or LESS Keyless Entry System in minor features. GL

https://www.etis.ford.com/

It shows it has keyless entry. If the door ajar switch is bad and not letting the interior light come on wouldn't that be also what lets the program mode know that the door is open? I'm new to all this electronic stuff, my last vehicle was an '88 Bronco II!
 












When you shop for remotes opt for a used Ford one vs a new Chinese one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380748547859

The Ford ones have the solid icons on the buttons and the Chinese ones have the hollow icons on the buttons.

2ccwjf4.jpg


Here are the two FCC ID's

https://fccid.io/GQ43VT11T

https://fccid.io/CWTWB1U331
 






I thought you had to cycle the key 10 times before the locks cycled
 






I thought you had to cycle the key 10 times before the locks cycled

Nope.

but according to this the door does not have to be open but you do need to press the electronic unlock button first.

2ztgl7l.jpg
 






I didn't get to work on it today because of rain, but yeah, the manual doesn't say anything about the door needing to be open but according to the site that swshawaii posted, it should have remote entry. I'll check the door ajar switch tomorrow and see what I can come up with on that. If it's bad and I disconnect the plug from it , shouldn't the dome light come on?
 






Was racking by brain over the "door open" programming and finally found it here.
Doesn't matter for you because it didn't work either way. (See posts #3 and #8 )

Seems most of the time the ajar switch is stuck open, yours "may" be stuck closed.

Can't get into Programming mode for remote?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310374
 






Well, I'll be. I didn't even know it had a rear window only feature!
I had to do the 8 turn trick twice, but it finally did the lock/unlock. I think the trick is to slow down a bit and see the radio light up before returning to, "off". One press on my Chinese counterfeit key fob and everything started working.
I've had this car for 10 months and I'm still finding self defeating features like, "Rear hatch window opening doesn't exist unless you have the key fob working".
 






Well, I'll be. I didn't even know it had a rear window only feature!
I had to do the 8 turn trick twice, but it finally did the lock/unlock. I think the trick is to slow down a bit and see the radio light up before returning to, "off". One press on my Chinese counterfeit key fob and everything started working.
I've had this car for 10 months and I'm still finding self defeating features like, "Rear hatch window opening doesn't exist unless you have the key fob working".

There's also a button "hidden" away to the right of the tailgate handle that releases the hatch window...
 






There's also a button "hidden" away to the right of the tailgate handle that releases the hatch window...
Thank you. I went right out and found it. Then I saw that I still couldn't get at the back of that auto-crack glass panel so I siliconed the crack.

This sounds like a good opportunity: Sell replacement panels that aren't made of glass.;)

Edit: Plenty on eBay motors for $80 to $130. How about a metal plate, painted black like it's a trim piece for $39.95?:D
 






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