left turn signal and hazard problems...

[Deathfire138]

Okay, I just replaced the fuel pump on my 1998 Ford Explorer in one of the many steps to get it back to it's former glory (or at least as close to it as I can!) With that pain in the ass through with, I go on to my next issue. First I only noticed it with my hazards, they are very finnicky and need to be held in just the right position or else (and I haven't tested them in a while so I might change this considering I forgot what exactly the problem is) either only one blinker turns on or neither of them activate. For a while I figured that since I wasn't driving it yet (I'm 16 and I'm just waiting to get the insurance on it) that it wasn't that big of a deal and I'll deal with it later. So, a few months later (during one of my, what I like to call, my car's monthly 'check-ups') I tested the turn signals and the left turn signal was also being finnicky. You had to hold it just right or else it wouldn't turn on! I'm planning on either this weekend or sooner taking the panel off of the steering column and checking the wiring, but before I do that I want to know if you guys have any tips on either taking off the steering column case (like things to watch out for so I don't damage my car) or any problems in the past/possible things to look for. If you need any more information just ask, Thanks!

 

[ghosttrain2]

Had a similar problem with mine,I determined that the switch itself was the problem. I replaced it, and disassembled the old one to look and found a blue-green corrosion on the contacts.

 

[Deathfire138]

By switch do you mean the lever itself or the multifunction switch inside the steering column assembly?

 

[ghosttrain2]

multifunction switch on the column.

 

[Deathfire138]

Okay, I figured out how to get the clamshell off (or at least enough off that I have a ton of clearance to get the covers off of the steering column) but the steering wheel adjustment handle won't unscrew, it seems to be rusted. I put some penetrating fluid on it but it just won't budge. Since I can't get the covers off the column completely I want to avoid using a gas torch so I don't ignite or melt the plastic, any suggestions?

 

[bobflood]

I needed to clamp a set of vise-grips on the steering column adjustment lever to get it unscrewed. And mine wasn't rusted. Clamp them on the metal shaft, not the plastic on the end.

 

[Deathfire138]

I'll try that in a few minutes. It's not so much that mine is rusted, I don't think... It's just that there's this orange-reddish stuff that looks like rust but also doesn't at the same time... maybe it's some kind of sealant or glue/adhesive to hold it together? Just a few questions:

1. Did you damage the metal rod at all using the vice grips or did you like have it rubber-padded?

2. How hard/long did you need to work at it to get it finally loosened?

 

[bobflood]

1. If you clamp the visegrips on really tight, they should not slip and tear up the shaft. I didn't care about that so I didn't pad them.
2. You really only need the visegrips to provide leverage to break the shaft lose. Once it breaks lose, take them off and unscrew it by hand. It's been a couple of years, but I seem to remember that I had to pull pretty hard.
You do understand that the shaft unscrews from a socket in the steering column? You are using the visegrips to provide rotational leverage to break it loose from the socket.

 

[Deathfire138]

Yes, I do understand that's a rotational motion just like a screw to remove the lever, I am going to put some rubber padding so that I don't scratch or damage the lever, Thanks.

 

[Deathfire138]

after one ruined jar-opener (the rubber kind, which I used as padding) and a broken pair of vise-grips (yes... They actually broke on me) I finally got the lever off, I'm going to back it into my garage and take the clamshell off and stuff. Any tips for me knowing what the switch looks like? I'm going to just follow it from the lever...

 

[bobflood]

As I remember, replacing the switch was pretty straightforward. It's a half moon shaped thing that sits on top of the steering column. The Hazard switch and directional stalk are part of it, and there are one or two wire sets to unplug. I got the replacement from a junkyard for about $10 and it's been fine since. If you don't have one, go buy a Haynes book - it's pretty good when you need to do the amount of work you are doing. Good luck!

 

[Deathfire138]

Okay, I think I got it off... It's the entire assembly with the lever and the hazards button, right? There's no junkyard near me but there's a Ford dealership, and multiple car shops such as Autozone and Advance Auto Parts, would any car shop sell this besides the Ford dealership or should I get a price quote from the dealership? I'm thinking of riding my bike or taking the Jeep up there right now just to get a quote...

Oh, and I broke one of the little clips that keeps the plug in place, it looks like I could just use some glue once I get it back on, I don't really intend on taking it off again any time soon... It seemed to stay on there pretty tight with just one but should I get a whole new plug or would I just be going out of my way?

EDIT: I went to Advance Auto Parts and they had one in stock... for $63.69. That's a lot of money but it's not like it's a fortune... I'd like to pay less but I don't know where there's a good junkyard nearby... I know there's one about 5-10 miles away but I've never actually been there so I don't know what their policy would be as far as taking parts off of cars would be...

 

[bobflood]

Junkyards exist to have people come in and take parts off cars; and CFC put a lot of Explorers out there, but you do what you have to do!! I wouldn't worry about having a broken clip on the plug - there is no real stress on it. Definitely would NOT glue it on - you never know when you might have to take it out again. Good luck.