03WIExplorerLtd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- November 18, 2012
- Messages
- 498
- Reaction score
- 51
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2011 Explorer FWD base
I set out to replace my rear rotors/pads & front sway bar links today. I completed the sway bar links. Please note my links were replaced at some point, and were not factory.
Lessons learned:
Front sway bar links can be completed easily if done properly. I have read others post how it took them 4 hours........It can/does......What I learned
- Lift both wheels off the ground with jackstands - at the same time
- Use a Sawzall to remove the links. Cut them at the lower control end top bushing (third from the bottom). My links that were being replaced were installed incorrectly (after viewing YouTube videos), so this may differ slightly if yours were done correctly. You can try to get them off with a 11/16 deep socket wratchet/box wrench, but if the links are rusted like mine, forget it.
- Don't over torque the bushings - they should look the same in the box as on the vehicle.
- Remember to spray/replace the sway bar bushings - i sprayed some silicone in. it squeaked when i had both links off and i moved it, but stopped with some silicone.
-Use an impact wrench, but don't over tighten the lugnuts.
- Rear factory sway bar links look like brand new after 10 years, 137k....
Questions:
I have done many brake jobs before, but was a little puzzled by this one. The rear caliper bracket is built in - there is no seperate set of bolts. The caliper bolts into the hub/axle assembly (whatever you want to call it). I also noticed that the slider pins had multiple boots per pin - interesting.
- I never have issues with caliper bolts - these were a pain. I started to strip one on the first attempt, using a real wrench (and the correct size). These should NOT be super tight for obvious reasons. How on earth do I get this thing off?! I tried the other one, and the same thing - couldn't get it to move. I tried a pipe - and then gave up before I stripped it more. I got the torch out, but wasn't really seeing any benefit to using it for this situation. I suppose I could sawzall the bolt, but i'd prefer not to.
- When I was moving the front sway bar, I noticed that it had a very little gap between the bar and bushing when it moved. The bushing is factory, but could it be worn out/old, causing the gap? I was too tired to replace the bushing (I have a new set).
Hopefully I helped somebody, and would appreciate some guidance, thanks.
Lessons learned:
Front sway bar links can be completed easily if done properly. I have read others post how it took them 4 hours........It can/does......What I learned
- Lift both wheels off the ground with jackstands - at the same time
- Use a Sawzall to remove the links. Cut them at the lower control end top bushing (third from the bottom). My links that were being replaced were installed incorrectly (after viewing YouTube videos), so this may differ slightly if yours were done correctly. You can try to get them off with a 11/16 deep socket wratchet/box wrench, but if the links are rusted like mine, forget it.
- Don't over torque the bushings - they should look the same in the box as on the vehicle.
- Remember to spray/replace the sway bar bushings - i sprayed some silicone in. it squeaked when i had both links off and i moved it, but stopped with some silicone.
-Use an impact wrench, but don't over tighten the lugnuts.
- Rear factory sway bar links look like brand new after 10 years, 137k....
Questions:
I have done many brake jobs before, but was a little puzzled by this one. The rear caliper bracket is built in - there is no seperate set of bolts. The caliper bolts into the hub/axle assembly (whatever you want to call it). I also noticed that the slider pins had multiple boots per pin - interesting.
- I never have issues with caliper bolts - these were a pain. I started to strip one on the first attempt, using a real wrench (and the correct size). These should NOT be super tight for obvious reasons. How on earth do I get this thing off?! I tried the other one, and the same thing - couldn't get it to move. I tried a pipe - and then gave up before I stripped it more. I got the torch out, but wasn't really seeing any benefit to using it for this situation. I suppose I could sawzall the bolt, but i'd prefer not to.
- When I was moving the front sway bar, I noticed that it had a very little gap between the bar and bushing when it moved. The bushing is factory, but could it be worn out/old, causing the gap? I was too tired to replace the bushing (I have a new set).
Hopefully I helped somebody, and would appreciate some guidance, thanks.
