C420sailor
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- July 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,651
- Reaction score
- 2,196
- City, State
- Long Island, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 XLT SOHC, 99 EB 5.0L
Just completed my first engine swap, and here's what I learned (for y'all who are considering the job).
The stats:
My vehicle: '98 Explorer XLT 4x4 w/ 4.0L SOHC (203k)
Donor vehicle: '11 Ranger w/ 4.0L SOHC (36k---wrecked)
Engine was ~$1000 plus $280 freight from LKQ. I spent about another $1000-1200 on parts. Many of the parts I replaced were "while I'm in there" type parts that I figured would be easier to do with the engine out. I spent a good chunk on tools (hoist, etc), but I consider tools to be an investment and I don't lump their cost in with the job.
For those who are curious, my original engine had been making cam chain noise for nearly 80k miles. After pulling the valve covers, I discovered that the non-tensioner side cassette on the front cam chain was completely gone. It had broken off and was sitting in the oil pan, largely intact. The tensioner was fully extended, and was doing a commendable job at keeping most of the slack out. I couldn't believe that she didn't jump any teeth.
Lessons Learned:
1) This is going to take a lot longer than you think, especially if you're not doing a 1:1 Explorer swap. Not only did the actual pluck/drop-in take longer than I expected, but stripping the new motor down to the long block and swapping everything over to the new motor took a decent amount of time. I'd say I'm an average to slightly above average wrench, so YMMV.
2) There is very little on the Ranger engine that you can use. I left the harmonic balancer and crankshaft sensor on. I swapped the ignition pack over just for ***** and giggles. Everything else comes over from the Ex engine---knock sensor, oil filter adapter, valve covers, exhaust manifolds, flexplate, oil pressure sender, injectors, fuel rail, wiring harness, etc etc.
3) If you don't own flex head ratchets, BUY THEM. My 3/8" flex head ratchet was a godsend, especially for those bellhousing bolts. I was able to get them all relatively easily from the wheel wells with that sweet piece of kit.
4) Flexplate bolts are external torx (E12). DO NOT USE A 12PT SOCKET ON THEM---YOU WILL ROUND THEM OFF.
5) Don't use a 'load leveler'. Many engine hoists come with them. You can get away with it when pulling the engine, but it will hit the firewall with about 1.5" to go when installing the motor. Use a chain (old school) and attach it to the passenger side cylinder head at the rear with a short bolt, and the drivers side cylinder head at the front with whatever length bolt you'd like. Prior to installation, eyeball the angle of the tranny through the wheel well, and hoist your motor a few inches and eyeball it. Adjust the hook/chain to get the angle as close as possible. You could probably use a level if you really wanted to gnats ass it, but I'm lazy.
6) Assuming you left the engine mount isolators/rubbers in the truck, do not install the engine mount plates on the engine block prior to re-installation of the engine. Get the engine in the bay and mated up to the tranny, THEN install the plates. It's going to take some up/down/left/right (I used a cheater pipe to wiggle the motor/tranny around to get the plates in place). It'll save you hoisting the motor again when you realize it ain't gonna happen with those plates installed.
7) If you want to change your engine mount isolators/rubbers, you'll have to unbolt the front diff/axle and lower it a good 3-4 inches. It really isn't that difficult, and I recommend doing it (do you think your original mounts are going to last another 200k+...?). Once again, that 3/8" flex head ratchet is f'n money here, especially for the drivers side mount.
8) You're going to have a lot of rusty bolts. Investing in even a small acetylene torch rig and a good impact (air if you can!) will save you a LOT of headaches.
9) When you're setting the jacks to pluck the engine, put one jack on each jack lift spot (that little perch welded to the frame just aft of the wheels), put one jack under the front of the tranny bellhousing, and for safety's sake, centerline your hydraulic jack under the front crossmember. The two main jacks will be too far back to contact the hoist legs, and the tranny jack and hydraulic jack will be centerlined. This way, the hoist will roll in without hitting anything.
10) Use a sheet of thin plywood to protect your radiator/AC condenser when you start pulling accessories---because something WILL fall and pierce one of them.
11) You can leave the PS pump and AC compressor connected---just move them out of the way.
12) Connect the electrical connectors behind the engine just before you mate the engine and tranny, especially if you have big hands. Doing it after kinda sucks.
13) Stuff rags/paper towels in your intake ports. If you drop something in there and the valve happens to be open, you're f'd.
14) Torque converter nuts. Apparently it's good form to replace them, so I did. I put a dab of blue loctite on them too, because I don't want those things coming loose. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a short extension and 6pt socket and gave it a good smack with a mini sledge to break them loose. Once loose, I used a 1/4" ratchet to get in there and back them out---a 3/8" ratchet is just too long, and will take you an eternity.
This is all I have for now. Hopefully some fellow engine swap n00bs can learn from my mistakes. Feel free to ask questions, and I'll post more lessons learned as I remember them.
The stats:
My vehicle: '98 Explorer XLT 4x4 w/ 4.0L SOHC (203k)
Donor vehicle: '11 Ranger w/ 4.0L SOHC (36k---wrecked)
Engine was ~$1000 plus $280 freight from LKQ. I spent about another $1000-1200 on parts. Many of the parts I replaced were "while I'm in there" type parts that I figured would be easier to do with the engine out. I spent a good chunk on tools (hoist, etc), but I consider tools to be an investment and I don't lump their cost in with the job.
For those who are curious, my original engine had been making cam chain noise for nearly 80k miles. After pulling the valve covers, I discovered that the non-tensioner side cassette on the front cam chain was completely gone. It had broken off and was sitting in the oil pan, largely intact. The tensioner was fully extended, and was doing a commendable job at keeping most of the slack out. I couldn't believe that she didn't jump any teeth.
Lessons Learned:
1) This is going to take a lot longer than you think, especially if you're not doing a 1:1 Explorer swap. Not only did the actual pluck/drop-in take longer than I expected, but stripping the new motor down to the long block and swapping everything over to the new motor took a decent amount of time. I'd say I'm an average to slightly above average wrench, so YMMV.
2) There is very little on the Ranger engine that you can use. I left the harmonic balancer and crankshaft sensor on. I swapped the ignition pack over just for ***** and giggles. Everything else comes over from the Ex engine---knock sensor, oil filter adapter, valve covers, exhaust manifolds, flexplate, oil pressure sender, injectors, fuel rail, wiring harness, etc etc.
3) If you don't own flex head ratchets, BUY THEM. My 3/8" flex head ratchet was a godsend, especially for those bellhousing bolts. I was able to get them all relatively easily from the wheel wells with that sweet piece of kit.
4) Flexplate bolts are external torx (E12). DO NOT USE A 12PT SOCKET ON THEM---YOU WILL ROUND THEM OFF.
5) Don't use a 'load leveler'. Many engine hoists come with them. You can get away with it when pulling the engine, but it will hit the firewall with about 1.5" to go when installing the motor. Use a chain (old school) and attach it to the passenger side cylinder head at the rear with a short bolt, and the drivers side cylinder head at the front with whatever length bolt you'd like. Prior to installation, eyeball the angle of the tranny through the wheel well, and hoist your motor a few inches and eyeball it. Adjust the hook/chain to get the angle as close as possible. You could probably use a level if you really wanted to gnats ass it, but I'm lazy.
6) Assuming you left the engine mount isolators/rubbers in the truck, do not install the engine mount plates on the engine block prior to re-installation of the engine. Get the engine in the bay and mated up to the tranny, THEN install the plates. It's going to take some up/down/left/right (I used a cheater pipe to wiggle the motor/tranny around to get the plates in place). It'll save you hoisting the motor again when you realize it ain't gonna happen with those plates installed.
7) If you want to change your engine mount isolators/rubbers, you'll have to unbolt the front diff/axle and lower it a good 3-4 inches. It really isn't that difficult, and I recommend doing it (do you think your original mounts are going to last another 200k+...?). Once again, that 3/8" flex head ratchet is f'n money here, especially for the drivers side mount.
8) You're going to have a lot of rusty bolts. Investing in even a small acetylene torch rig and a good impact (air if you can!) will save you a LOT of headaches.
9) When you're setting the jacks to pluck the engine, put one jack on each jack lift spot (that little perch welded to the frame just aft of the wheels), put one jack under the front of the tranny bellhousing, and for safety's sake, centerline your hydraulic jack under the front crossmember. The two main jacks will be too far back to contact the hoist legs, and the tranny jack and hydraulic jack will be centerlined. This way, the hoist will roll in without hitting anything.
10) Use a sheet of thin plywood to protect your radiator/AC condenser when you start pulling accessories---because something WILL fall and pierce one of them.
11) You can leave the PS pump and AC compressor connected---just move them out of the way.
12) Connect the electrical connectors behind the engine just before you mate the engine and tranny, especially if you have big hands. Doing it after kinda sucks.
13) Stuff rags/paper towels in your intake ports. If you drop something in there and the valve happens to be open, you're f'd.
14) Torque converter nuts. Apparently it's good form to replace them, so I did. I put a dab of blue loctite on them too, because I don't want those things coming loose. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a short extension and 6pt socket and gave it a good smack with a mini sledge to break them loose. Once loose, I used a 1/4" ratchet to get in there and back them out---a 3/8" ratchet is just too long, and will take you an eternity.
This is all I have for now. Hopefully some fellow engine swap n00bs can learn from my mistakes. Feel free to ask questions, and I'll post more lessons learned as I remember them.
