limit straps help

[slickemhoundd]

For starters im running my superlift tt/shackles. Now im still rubbing after trimming for those who wonder why i cranked the tbars with a superlift. Any way, I have the truck perfectly level with my winch bumper on BUT upon heavy acceleration when the nose lifts up i hear and feel my cv's dancing. Ive spit them out before on trails (last truck) but it sucks i cant even romp on it. What would the best way to measure my needed length for the straps. I dont want the truck to fall into every pot hole but i dont want to tear my front end apart going over whoops in the road either

 

[Torqueranger]

For starters im running my superlift tt/shackles. Now im still rubbing after trimming for those who wonder why i cranked the tbars with a superlift. Any way, I have the truck perfectly level with my winch bumper on BUT upon heavy acceleration when the nose lifts up i hear and feel my cv's dancing. Ive spit them out before on trails (last truck) but it sucks i cant even romp on it. What would the best way to measure my needed length for the straps. I dont want the truck to fall into every pot hole but i dont want to tear my front end apart going over whoops in the road either

lol I am like 30mins from you ..


But anyways most of the time you jack up the truck till you feel it's enough of suspension travel and them measure from there..

 

[01STrunner]

I'm not one for saying you lifted your truck too high (hell just look at my current setup), but I think you might have cranked the t-bars a little too much. I did a lot of wheeling (both trails and rocks) with TT/Shackles, a BL and 35s and did not have any binding of my CV axles.

As for the limit straps, yes, you cycle the suspension until you have what you want to be the maximum droop and then measure for straps. I need to do this project sine I keep sliding the boots off my shocks.

 

[slickemhoundd]

I guess my trouble with figuring the measurement out is that im awd, so to jack up and spin to a compfort zone is alittle out of the question. Im not sure how much the rear sags on acceleration to equate that to the front lift. I have my bars cranked all the way to compensate for the 300lbs bolted to the front of the truck and i sit level and yet still rub after trimming sitting on 33s, i havent even put my spacers on yet

 

[01STrunner]

The way I plan on getting the measurement is going out and playing a little bit. Find a ditch or steep hill and climb until you have an issue. Back off an inch and then you should be able to get a measurement there. That way you don't need any equipment/ relying on a jack while you're under there.

 

[MercuryMullet]

Coming from the VW world, we would limit by cv angle.

You can measure the angle or put the frame on jack stands, lift the lower ball joint with a floor jack until the cvs either quit binding, clicking, etc. at what ever point the front rotates "freely and correctly" is where I would strap it.

 

[MercuryMullet]

It should spin in neutral, might have to have all four up though.

 

[Torqueranger]

I guess my trouble with figuring the measurement out is that im awd, so to jack up and spin to a compfort zone is alittle out of the question. Im not sure how much the rear sags on acceleration to equate that to the front lift. I have my bars cranked all the way to compensate for the 300lbs bolted to the front of the truck and i sit level and yet still rub after trimming sitting on 33s, i havent even put my spacers on yet

Correct on AWD but your forgetting that it's not true AWD like locked posi units ... All you trying to do is limit the amount of travel in order to make sure the CV joint don't bind and fall apart ..

 

[slickemhoundd]

I guess jack up the front and rear, set on stands and jack the control arm up and hope for the best. Im mainly worried for some reason that if i get superlifts straps they may be to short with the tt. I figured it would be smarter to buy an exact length

 

[Torqueranger]

I guess jack up the front and rear, set on stands and jack the control arm up and hope for the best. Im mainly worried for some reason that if i get superlifts straps they may be to short with the tt. I figured it would be smarter to buy an exact length

Start with the front and work from there ... why are you playing with the rear ??? The ear should not need limiting straps ..
You don't have to use superlift straps but just find ones like on ebay or something ..

 

[slickemhoundd]

I know i dont need straps in the rear but i cant just rotate the front wheels. Just thought of somethin else, even with the whole truck up id need two jacks for the control arms two find the proper drop. Unless i throw the rear up on stands, jack my crossmember and put stands under the arms and tinker that way with the truck in gear as per every adjustment

 

[Torqueranger]

I know i dont need straps in the rear but i cant just rotate the front wheels. Just thought of somethin else, even with the whole truck up id need two jacks for the control arms two find the proper drop. Unless i throw the rear up on stands, jack my crossmember and put stands under the arms and tinker that way with the truck in gear as per every adjustment

I am not sure if you are messing with me or what ,but your are making this harder than it is .. I would love to take the ride and show you what I mean but have to drive my tow truck.. Please don't don't touch the rear at all ... With limiting straps all you are doing is controlling how far the suspension can unload or reach full droop and you have a IFS system then each wheel is separate from the rest of the suspension in the front ... So you best bet would be to jack the front up and put the crossmember jack stands and then take each wheel separately and jack up each arm till you feel that's the max the suspension can cycle before it binds or you feel unsafe and also remember to subtract .25" - 1" from the measurement because the strap will stretch some what ....

Hope it helps

 

[obie]

With the AWD, he has to have the rear in the air to spin the front tires. Otherwise, the fronts will attempt to drive the rears and that's majorly unsafe, not to mention requires quite a bit of elbow grease to spin the tires. So if he wants to check for CV binding during movement, he has to have the rear in the air.

 

[MercuryMullet]

With the AWD, he has to have the rear in the air to spin the front tires. Otherwise, the fronts will attempt to drive the rears and that's majorly unsafe, not to mention requires quite a bit of elbow grease to spin the tires. So if he wants to check for CV binding during movement, he has to have the rear in the air.

Or drop the front driveshaft

 

[obie]

True, but it's a lot easier to jack the back than mark all the flanges and pull the driveshaft and then reinstall it.

 

[slickemhoundd]

Thank you guys. Yes its awd hence the dilemma. I have a set from superlift measured at 19.5". Now mocking them up from where they say to drill thee frame is just about exactly where im at now. I know i have more travel than that. Unless thats including possible stretch and or bending of loop at the control arm. As soon as i build another set of endlinks ill put them in. BUT i dont want to be stuck drilling holes to find the right distance. I hate ifs

 

[MercuryMullet]

True, but it's a lot easier to jack the back than mark all the flanges and pull the driveshaft and then reinstall it.

Yes it is.

 

[MercuryMullet]

Thank you guys. Yes its awd hence the dilemma. I have a set from superlift measured at 19.5". Now mocking them up from where they say to drill thee frame is just about exactly where im at now. I know i have more travel than that. Unless thats including possible stretch and or bending of loop at the control arm. As soon as i build another set of endlinks ill put them in. BUT i dont want to be stuck drilling holes to find the right distance. I hate ifs

That's why mine is gone.