Looking for some advice

[Ranger Rick]

My '98 Mountaineer has several issues with the Mach audio system, which is really the truck's only weakness.

1) the power antenne no longer lowers. By the sounds of it, the drive gear is stripped, because it still tries to retract the mast when the radio powers down but only achieves making a racket.

2) the head unit display is completely out. Functionally, it works OK (aside from the CD player being skip-happy), and once I managed to program the radio station buttons, normal control through the steering wheel buttons works fine.

3) the subwoofer in the rear is blown and buzzes with really any signal to it. I've tried turning the bass way down (complicated by the lack of display on the head unit), but it still buzzes.

4) one of the rear door speakers is also blown.

So, here is what I would like to know:

A) Is the antenne power on it's own circuit that I can pull the fuse on? Or do I have to disconnect it from the radio wiring?

B) Do I need a unique harness adapter for the Mach system to put in an aftermarket head unit? I have installed many head units over the years, so this isn't new to me, but it isn't clear to me how/if the Mach system has special needs. Wiring and soldering are not a problem for me, as long as I know what I'm getting into in advance. I've heard that the stock units are prone to display problems to begin with, but I wanted a bluetooth-capable head unit anyway. However, I don't want to give up my steering wheel controls. Is there a way to retain their operation (or the rear seat controls - but that's not as important to me) with an aftermarket unit?

C) How do I remove the sub enclosure? I'm reluctant to start prying on the thing. Once I have it out, is it feasible to simply replace the subwoofer with an aftermarket piece, or would that require a bit of custom work? I'm not an audiophile - I'm not super fussy about the sound of the system - but I don't want to sound bad. At the same time, I'd be hard pressed to know difference between a decent system and an excellent one, so I'm not interested in spending more money on it than necessary.

Any help you guys can offer or suggest would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Ranger Rick]

Oh, I forgot to mention that the disc changer in the console will not eject the magazine. Is there some way to test it to see if is operating properly, or should I just consider it nonfunctional and remove it?

 

[Track3r]

I can answer a couple questions...

you will need a different wire harness than the regular explorers but its not hard to get it.

To retain the steering wheel controls that requires a compatible radio and another harness but it can be done. however i have yet to see a way to keep the rear ones

the power wire for the antenna can just be left unhooked when / if you put in a new radio

as far as the new sub i only have a "premium" system in my explorer so i have never had the joy of messing with the subs in explorers but lots of others here have

 

[Joe Dirt]

Rick- try my thread here: CLICK ME

It will show you how to get to the sub. Don't bother prying off the cover, as you have to take the entire rack out to gt the actual sub out as it has a bolt through the back of the enclosure and into the magnet (in my thread)

If you need a sub speaker, I do have one for same in my for sale thread- search 'oodles of parts'

 

[Ranger Rick]

Thanks for the input.

Good point regarding the antenne Track3r - I guess I was overthinking it. I was even considering swapping in a standard whip-mast, but there really is no advantage to doing it once the powered unit is disabled. I do have a thing about having non-working parts on my vehicles; if the equipment is in place, I want it to work. Otherwise, I'd rather remove the nonfunctional part if it can't be made to work. But leaving the power lead unhooked is at least acceptable short-term.

Joe, thanks for linking that write up. One question that wasn't clear, though, is whether or not I can sub in an aftermarket subwoofer and still power it off of the factory amp without too much trouble. Like I said, I don't want to spend more $ on it than needed. On the other hand, I'm not likely to go through the effort of taking the side panel apart only to unplug the sub entirely (the cheapest solution). Like I mentioned above, I'd rather fix the problem while I have it apart then put it back together unhooked. Even if I do replace the head unit with an aftermarket unit, I don't want to buy an aftermarket amp or run RCA cables to the rear of the truck if there is factory wiring & equipment already in place.

 

[Joe Dirt]

I put that whole system in, including the new Pioneer CD/MP3/iPod input radio, aftermarket sub, aftermarket amp, and wiring kits/mounting stuff for about $250 total.

I'd imagine that you could wire in a sub directly, but the JBL/MACH amp really isn't going to do much to push it.

I have a stock sub for sale if you want the easiest path...

 

[Ranger Rick]

I'd imagine that you could wire in a sub directly, but the JBL/MACH amp really isn't going to do much to push it.

I have a stock sub for sale if you want the easiest path...

I would be open to that if it worked ok.

I wasn't not real worried about whether or not the stock amp can get the most out of an aftermarket subwoofer. My bigger concern is just making the system work properly without crackling & buzzing. I don't need it to be superb, I won't really know the difference.

 

[Track3r]

Best bet is to buy the sub from Joe

If your going to do an aftermarket sub get an aftermarket amp.. better to do it right the first time than have to do it twice

As to with the antenna... I would probably end up swapping it out also mostly because I never liked power antennas and want stuff on my truck to work... my view has always been less parts to mess up = better. Thus why my other mode of transportation is an 81 Kawasaki [no computers or anything to mess up ]

 

[Joe Dirt]

You can get pretty poor sound and interference from a mini-amp on a sub that needs more power, i.e. a stock Ford sub trying to push a sub with a larger wattage requirement...

 

[Ranger Rick]

That makes sense. Then the simplest thing is to just swap out the stock sub for another that works. Joe, I'll send you a PM about it.