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Loose Clutch pedel

DansX

Member
Joined
June 16, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Albuquerque, NM
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 XLT
Clutch problems, will not go in gear

I went out this morning and my clutch pedel was loose, i.s. there was about 2 inches of play before it felt like it engaged. It happedn over night. on Saturday last I drove it, it was not doing it. I need help, what could it be. Now it is hard to get into first and it will not go into reverse.
 



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Sounds like there is air in the system, or you have a fluid leak. Is the fluid level okay? If not, check for leakage at your clutch master and slave cylinders. If the fluid level is okay, try pumping the pedal quickly 10 or 15 times to see if the slop goes away. If it does, you might try bleeding the system.
 






Originally posted by Okrazie1
Sounds like there is air in the system, or you have a fluid leak. Is the fluid level okay? If not, check for leakage at your clutch master and slave cylinders. If the fluid level is okay, try pumping the pedal quickly 10 or 15 times to see if the slop goes away. If it does, you might try bleeding the system.
Checked the fluid and it was good. Also tried to pump em up, and it still had the slack in the pedel
 






Great

Went out this morning to go to work and it now will not even go into gear. Help
 






First thing you should try and bleed your clutch. I agree...you probably have air in the line. The bleeding should fix it up for a time. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but the slave cylinder is probably leaking alittle which is letting the air into the system. Bleeding the clutch should temporarly (a few months) fix it though. I had the same problem with mine, but I couldn't even bleed mine....don't know what was wrong. We just replaced the entire clutch system (master/slave cyl, disks, bearings pressure plate) and it works like silk now. When mine was acting up I couldnt' even start the truck, the starter was actually trying to drive the wheels.

Bleeding the clutch isn't hard.
You'll need a 5/16" box end wrench,
fill the master cylinder all the way up, get under the truck find the bleed screw (it's on the drivers side of the transmision...up towards the bell housing, it'll have a little rubber dust cap on it probably) remove the dust cap and push a clear piece of hose on the nipple. Open the bleeder valve and let the fluid run until you dohn't see any bubbles. Close the valve. Have an assistant slowly press the clutch pedal and holt it. Open the bleeder valve again and let it run until the flow stops the close it back up. Slowly press the clutch pedal 5 times waiting two seconds each time the pedal is released. Fill the fluid resevoir to the step.
You're clutch should be fully bled now. MAKE SURE not to let all the fluid run out or you'll have to start all over again.

I hope that helps!

Later
CP
 






Originally posted by CodePoet

Bleeding the clutch isn't hard.

CP

Went out and got a bleeding kit and bled the clutch. It seems to have gotten better. Wil drive for a couple of days and then see what the level of fluid it.


Thanks
 






Hey i'm glad to hear it's better! If I were you i'd just keep an eye on it, you might have to do it occasionally but you can probably nurse a bit more life out of it. How hard was using the bleeding kit? I considered buying one when I was trying to do mine. The slave cyliner will proabably have to be replaced though some time in the future, when you do that it's a great time to go ahead and replace the disk, and pressure plate also. Good luck!!

Later
CP :D
 






vacuum kit

Was about the same as doing it with gravity, just quicker. I still needed two people, me with the pump and another to keep the fluid full. I am looking to probally replace clutch, PP and Slave in the near future. I am going to research and see how hard it is. been awhile since I have done a clutch and that was in a little two wheel drive truck.


Thanks again
 






If the clutch pedal is anything like the gas pedal it may be falling off the firewall. That seems to be common to the X. Another place Ford didn't spend the money to do the job correctly.
 






Hello--could someone please describe the clutch bleeding process used on a 97 Sport 5spd? I recently purchased this--has 96000 miles on it--displays the classic problem with going into 1rst gear--also occasionally grinds when shifting down into 3rd only unless I wait till about 30mph--seems to run and shift without problems otherwise

Thanks!
Barry
 






According to my chiltons manual there is another way to bleed the clutch other than what codepoet described. I know for me i tried doing it like codepoet did when i put my new clutch in and i couldn't get the clutch to bleed entirely. You have to press the clutch to the floor then release it real quickly. I would just slip my foot off the clutch and let it pop back up. Do that ten times them hold the pedal down and bleed it. You repeat that process until the clutch is bled.
 






CLutch

So I got it to bleed and it worked, well guess what I go back out today and it is hard to get into gear and the pedel is sloppy again. I looked and the fluid is low. Also the clutch is slipping bad now. Should I go ahead and change the clutch and Pressure plate while I drop and change the Slave. I bought the X recently and am not sure how much wear the Clutch and PP have on it.


A shop quoted me 580 to do it all including resurface the flywheel. is that price good? the Ford dealer wanted 950.


Thanks

Dan
 






Sounds like a good price. I had mine done at a shop for $930 :eek: After that I called ford and they quoted me $800 :mad: Guess I learned to shop around next time :(
 






weird

So i went out today again and the fluid was totally empty. I filled it to max and then got in and pumped the pedal like 10 or 15 times really quick and it has great pressure. weird

Any who I will be taking it in on Monday to get the Clutch and all replaced.
 






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