How to: Make your 99-01 V8 run cooler

[Centaurus5.0]

That's cool.The pictures on eBay are not clear, hopefully that's the version they are selling.

The ones for $40 are that version.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

You guys are tryin to kill me huh? Quit it with the tempting distractions already.

Besides, I already went down that nightmare road back in 2003----

turbo's arent too hard to do. superchargers are pretty easy as well

 

[Centaurus5.0]

 

[Dono]

I came across a high flow thermostat that FlowKooler recommends as a companion to their high flow water pump (Item # 1666) that Centaurus5.0 posted up.
FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance Thermostats (item # 330-180)
There are some reviews that both of these should be done as a pair.

 

[umr_engnr]

I was trying to figure out why Ford changed to a single row radiator and then it hit me that the change to a plastic fan seems to have occured around the same time. Plastic fan in around 1999 and the change to a single row radiator happened in 2000.

In my research, it seems the plastic fan is supposed to move more air. So if the thermal requirements didn't change but the new fan design moves more air, I wonder if that facilitated the move from a 2-row radiator to a 1-row radiator? Able to meet the same requirements cheaper. Maybe the changes were planned together but rolled out separately due to supply chain considerations or to ensure the metal fan never made it onto the single row radiator vehicles which would have resulted in worse thermal management.

If that is the case, then the best option seems to be to use the older 2-row radiator and the plastic fan.

I was looking at my plastic fan and it appears that the plastic is molded around a metal center section so even if there are cracks between blades, each blade is still held tightly to the metal center frame. Makes me wonder if the plastic fans really do explode as everyone seems to fear.

 

[BUXTER]

I was trying to figure out why Ford changed to a single row radiator and then it hit me that the change to a plastic fan seems to have occured around the same time. Plastic fan in around 1999 and the change to a single row radiator happened in 2000.

In my research, it seems the plastic fan is supposed to move more air. So if the thermal requirements didn't change but the new fan design moves more air, I wonder if that facilitated the move from a 2-row radiator to a 1-row radiator? Able to meet the same requirements cheaper. Maybe the changes were planned together but rolled out separately due to supply chain considerations or to ensure the metal fan never made it onto the single row radiator vehicles which would have resulted in worse thermal management.

If that is the case, then the best option seems to be to use the older 2-row radiator and the plastic fan.

I was looking at my plastic fan and it appears that the plastic is molded around a metal center section so even if there are cracks between blades, each blade is still held tightly to the metal center frame. Makes me wonder if the plastic fans really do explode as everyone seems to fear.

- When my Plastic Fan cracked I found Plastic 7 Blade, 9 blade, 11 Blade (5.0), 1ea 12 blade & an all Metal Blade replacement.

- I ended up going with 1ea 16 inch 12 Amp aftermarket Electric Fan triggered by Temp Controller & homemade Metal Shroud on my 1 Row Rad + 2ea 4inch Spal Fans on 2ea Tranny Coolers triggered by AC Compressor - Deleted Tranny Cooler in Rad - My 1 Row Rad cooling great at Idle w/ AC in very hot recent S.C. Temps - AC working exceptionally well.

- Added a little flap to bottom of Radiator Air Dam & staggered it fwd where the stock curved internal Flap aims at AC Condenser & my added Flap aims at Radiator.

- In addition to less restrictive Air Flow another advantage of 1 Row Rad is u have option of mounting Electric Fan on FRONT of Homemade Shroud for tons of clearance as I did my first 14 Inch 10 Amp Electric Fan - I staggered my current 16 Inch 12 Amp Electric Fan on backside of Homemade Shroud toward Pass side over Stock for additional Water Pump Clearance - & Yes u cd just whack the Threaded boss for Fan clutch off ur new Water Pump for all the clearance u wd ever need.

- No probs w/ stock 130 Amp Alternator.

METAL FAN SHROUD ON 5.0 LITRE

RADIATOR AIR DAM

 

[BruceExploder]

So this is why my metal fan 98 is alot hotter than my Plastic fan 99?

 

[CDW6212R]

Both of my 98's had plastic fans, and they both run fairly cool, also with the full thickness radiators. If your engine runs warm at all, it should be from blockages in front of the radiator, or an issue with the fan clutch or thermostat etc.

 

[BruceExploder]

Both of my 98's had plastic fans, and they both run fairly cool, also with the full thickness radiators. If your engine runs warm at all, it should be from blockages in front of the radiator, or an issue with the fan clutch or thermostat etc.

My 98 stays about 210 but the 99 around 185-190. I think the radiator maybe was replaced in the 99 at some point and the 98 has the original radiator I am just guessing.

Question though I noticed there is alot of cracking in the Plastic fan of the 99 even though it stays cooler. Is that going to cause an issue at some point?

 

[umr_engnr]

My 98 stays about 210 but the 99 around 185-190. I think the radiator maybe was replaced in the 99 at some point and the 98 has the original radiator I am just guessing.

Question though I noticed there is alot of cracking in the Plastic fan of the 99 even though it stays cooler. Is that going to cause an issue at some point?

There is a metal bracket that mounts to the fan clutch. The plastic blades appear to be molded around this bracket. There appears to be holes in the metal so the plastic is around and through the bracket. You can see the darker areas in the center fan section in your picture. This is why I think that the cracks won't compromise the fan integrity as much as people say. I would imagine since everyone seems to have the cracks and surely the majority are not replacing fans regularly that there should be a lot of cases of exploding fans.

They are only $30 on RockAuto so I'll probably replace mine anyways since I have it out. I would like to hear if anyone at all has actually had a plastic fan failure.

 

[umr_engnr]

I searched around for a little bit and found a user in this thread that had some failures:

Check Your Fan Blade!!!!!

Post #54:

I've had two of these fans come apart in my 92 X. The first happened at high rpm and essentially chopped the upper radiator hose off of the nipple where it connects, damaging the radiator in the process. The second happened 4 years or so later at low speed and only finished off my already damaged shroud. The oem fan had been cracked for many years before it finally exploded and the replacement started cracking within a year. I looked at several 1st gen X's at the junk yard and all of them had cracked fans. As best I can tell, cracks on the hub portion of the fan are completely normal but if you ever see those cracks start migrating up onto any of the blades it's time to replace the fan immediately.

But that was all I could find. Doesn't seem to be a huge concern unless they are severely cracked. Some people were running ones with cracks running down the blades. I would definitely want to change that.

 

[radman]

I haven't seen anyone say to use a 180 degree T-stat yet. In the Mustang world (especially the old 5.0) It was common and often the first mod you'd do to keep temps down and maybe free up some HP.

It seems that there is a misconception about using a cooler range thermostat to make your engine run cooler. The thermostat is a valve and it is fully open at or near it's advertised temperature setting. Once open fully it will allow coolant to pass through no matter how hot it becomes. Overheating can not be cured by lowering the thermostat value if there is an over riding cause of of it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The thermostat doesn't solve other issues of over heating, but it does directly control the low limit of where the coolant temperature runs.

These trucks have enough cooling ability to run well under 150 degrees in most places, much lower in colder times of the year. So the T'stat should be chosen for what low end range you want the coolant at. That's easy to decide, if you are way way up North with -30 Winters, you need at least a 180* unit. At temps of zero or more a 160 might be enough heat for you during the Winter, but the PCM sometimes throws a code when the temps don't get higher than that 150 range. I don't know where that threshold is, but it gave me a code every day during Winter, while my temps stayed below 140*.

A 192-195 is excessively hot IMO, for any climate, as it just pushes the whole system closer to being too hot. I like the 175 range for normal driving, and a 180* unit gets it close to that.

 

[Dono]

I am using a 180 for summer, and think I'll need a 192 for winter. The 180 will probably be too cold for good heat in the cabin. I think Ford went with the 192 for better emissions and for winter drive4 comfort.

For summer, I think 180 is plenty hot. I have my 180 stat, and my fan turning on at about 195. Interestingly, sy highway speeds I dont hold 180 on warmer days, I'm more like 195. This tells me the fan is needed even at highway speeds. Not sure it I'm drawing the correct conclusion, but it's interesting.

 

[umr_engnr]

I got around to pulling my radiator and getting the condensor separated was as big of pain as others stated. I saw a few others mention using the 4.0L condensor mounts but there weren't any pictures to be found. I went to the local pick n pull on a 40% off day and was out the door for under $10. Just had to remove four small bolts. Make sure to grab all the weatherstripping since the condensor will now be slightly separated from the radiator. Everything mounted up to my 5.0L perfectly even with a 1" body lift. All holes were already in the body. Great mod.

Here is a picture of the brackets and weatherstripping. Long bracket goes on bottom and two small brackets go on top. You do have to cut the existing plastic brackets off the condensor. Tinsnips made quick work of those.

 

[donalds]

All the talk about t-stats

Look into a stant superstat for a year round solution

 

[koda2000]

I'm sure that having the A/C condenser mounted to the radiator on the 5.0L made it simpler for Ford during vehicle assembly, but I hate dealing with the radiator replacement on the 5.0L. I've done it 3-4 times and it seems like it gets harder to do each time. I'd definitely consider this mod for next time.

 

[CDW6212R]

I got around to pulling my radiator and getting the condensor separated was as big of pain as others stated. I saw a few others mention using the 4.0L condensor mounts but there weren't any pictures to be found. I went to the local pick n pull on a 40% off day and was out the door for under $10. Just had to remove four small bolts. Make sure to grab all the weatherstripping since the condensor will now be slightly separated from the radiator. Everything mounted up to my 5.0L perfectly even with a 1" body lift. All holes were already in the body. Great mod.

Here is a picture of the brackets and weatherstripping. Long bracket goes on bottom and two small brackets go on top. You do have to cut the existing plastic brackets off the condensor. Tinsnips made quick work of those.

View attachment 175022

I remember that condenser mounting bracket from my V6 99, it is very sturdy. I knew others had put those on the V8 before, I just haven't gotten around to going after those brackets. Thanks for the picture, that will help many people.

 

[traveler]

Can't believe I haven't seen this thread before.

I'm running an all aluminum radiator from Ebay. It's twice the thickness of my OEM radiator. I also am using an all aluminum transmission cooler from an F-350, not sure of year. They do run independently of each other, no transmission fluid to radiator.
I've had no cooling issues. Even while towing our 3700lb travel trailer through mountains the temps never got over 215 coolant and 200 transmission, and then they cooled quickly once "over the peak"
I was very interested in the V6 brackets for the condenser however. Definitely gonna pick some up at the pic a part next time I'm there. I've cussed the designer of the V8 brackets more than I've cussed the guy who located the oil filter in the 4.6 Tbirds!