Manually Flushing the A4LD transmission, I understand most of it, but not all

[protomind]

I am going to flush my A4LD Transmission, I understand the concept and how it works, but I am not sure about a few things which I will be asking about below.

The first thing I am going to do is gather Everything needed. I will list the items below.
15 quarts of Mobil1 Synthetic MerconV (I can return what I do not use)
A bucket which measures quarts on the side, or a gallon jug.
Some 3/8 hose, a couple of hose clamps and bolt to plug up the transmission return line.
A transmission filter and gasket kit.
A friend to start the car and to turn off the car as needed.

I will list the steps below as I understand them, in order.

1. Drop the transmission pan and replace the filter, put pan back on the bottom of transmission. Add three quarts of fluid.


2. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines and plug the return line while placing a bucket under the line pumping out from the transmission.
(The return line is the top line on the transmission going to the front of the car, follow this to figure out which one is your return line. On the stock trans cooler, there was a line on the bottom left, and a line on the bottom right, on my 94 explorer, the left line is the return line. Yours may vary, this is my experience however.

3.Have your friend start up the engine until 1-2 quarts come out into the bucket. (Do not pump out more then 2 quarts of fluid so as to not loose the prime on the pump.)


4.Turn off the engine, add an amount of transmission fluid equal to the amount drained in step three.

5. repeat steps 3 then 4 until transmission fluid runs out clean into the bucket. This should take up to 15 quarts from what I understand, once the the fluid does run clean proceed to step 6.

6. Reconnect the transmission cooler and all lines, take the car for a drive and check fluids, making sure they are properly filled.




Did I miss anything?

I found the stickied thread to be confusing for me, and I assume for other novices as well.

Once I understand this process completely I plan on making a tutorial for the complete novice, while I have worked on cars quite a bit, this is something I have never done and I find myself a bit lost at this point, but I feel I understand most of it. I just need a few things clarified.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Pump about a quart or 2 out, but keep it around that point. Don't let too much drain out at one time. You will lose the prime. There is no wrong way to install the O rings on the filter. The upper line on the transmission is the return line. Check # 52 in my list of useful threads for more information.

 

[protomind]

Pump about a quart or 2 out, but keep it around that point. Don't let too much drain out at one time. You will lose the prime. There is no wrong way to install the O rings on the filter. The upper line on the transmission is the return line. Check # 52 in my list of useful threads for more information.

So I should replace the three quarts after dropping the pan BEFORE starting the vehicle again? This will make sure I keep the pump primed? I will also be sure to keep no more then two quarts flowing out at a time so the pump will remain primed. It makes sense if that is the case.

What about using a gasket? If I can get away with it, I prefer not to use a gasket, if it is essential I will of course do it however.

 

[96eb96]

So I should replace the three quarts after dropping the pan BEFORE starting the vehicle again? This will make sure I keep the pump primed? I will also be sure to keep no more then two quarts flowing out at a time so the pump will remain primed. It makes sense if that is the case.

What about using a gasket? If I can get away with it, I prefer not to use a gasket, if it is essential I will of course do it however.

I use 3 liter poland spring bottles. You are safe if you fill them about 1/2 way.

Then fill another bottle(new fluid) to the same level, and pour in new fluid.

Remove some fluid before you drop the pan using this technique. Be sure to refill to the correct level after you do the pan drop and before you start the bottle flush.

Again, no permatex. It would be scary to think what a tiny amount of that stuff would do in the valve body. A rubber filter is great, but the cork ones are ok too. THe cork ones have a tendency to weep fluid after time. The rubber is reusable.

I was told by a reputable trans shop that you should only use microfelt on these trans, because they trap tiny particles. Any contamination in these units is very bad. Be sure to clean your magnet and pan thoroughly with brake cleaner.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The basic idea of flushing is to maintain a constant amount of fluid in the transmission. If your system has 10 quarts, then try to maintain at least 8-10 quarts all of the time.

 

[James909]

3. have friend start up the engine and put the trans in drive

No need to put the transmission in drive, it will be pumping fluid in park.

 

[protomind]

So I should pump out about a quart or two before dropping the pan? Then replace the filter with a fiber one if possible.
\
So if I use a rubber gasket I should have no leaks? Using a cork gasket may cause leaks later?
For sure use no permatex though, right?
Is there a certain torque pattern or spec I should try to adhere to?

So the trans will pump out fluid the whole time while in park?

 

[BrooklynBay]

This chart is one of the links in # 67 in my list of useful threads:

 

[96eb96]

So I should pump out about a quart or two before dropping the pan? Then replace the filter with a fiber one if possible.

Yes, there is no problem with pumping a quart or two. It makes dropping the pan very easy. Get a microfelt filter.

So if I use a rubber gasket I should have no leaks? Using a cork gasket may cause leaks later?
For sure use no permatex though, right?
Is there a certain torque pattern or spec I should try to adhere to?

Rubber gaskets are much more durable and you will be able to reuse it at your next pan drop. Also, they don't make a mess when you do this a second time(gasket residue). The rubber gasket is rigid..so...

Forget Permatex, use it on the differential cover when you change the fluid

I've never seen Permatex specified for a Ford Trans. Honestly, either cork or rubber gasket is fine. But the local shop told me they have issues with leaks(after many miles). I asked their opinion and they told me to reuse my old rubber one and throw out the cork one.

Do NOT OVERTORQUE TRANS PAN BOLTS. They will break and ruin your day. Look at BrooklynBays chart for the spec. Tighten in a cross pattern, there is no specific pattern. Also, make sure the filter is tightened correctly. Whoever did mine last left it loose. Invest in a torque wrench if you work on cars.

So the trans will pump out fluid the whole time while in park?

Yes, that is exactly how the flush machines do it.

I never, ever heard of doing this procedure in drive. That is extremely dangerous. Set your parking brake just to be sure when doing this operation.

On my 96, I do this procedure thru the trans upper radiator line. I slip a tube over the the metal tube flare fitting and put the other end in a bottle.... I stick a rag in the radiator fitting, a bit of fluid may dribble out.

Also, please use backup wrenches when you take the lines off. Think plumbing fittings. You do not want to break off the radiator fitting. Spray some pb blaster if they are hard to take off.

One last thing, my suggestion is to use a name brand Mercon V fluid(not Mercon). Ford obsoleted Mercon and their dealers exclusively use Mercon V for all auto trans. This is what Ford and a very reputable local shop suggests using in a trans. It is semi synthetic and specifically engineered to address issues in Ford Trans. Then again, synthetic (mobil, amsoil) won't hurt, but its not really necessary (my opinion).

 

[protomind]

Yes, there is no problem with pumping a quart or two. It makes dropping the pan very easy. Get a microfelt filter.

Rubber gaskets are much more durable and you will be able to reuse it at your next pan drop. Also, they don't make a mess when you do this a second time(gasket residue). The rubber gasket is rigid..so...

Forget Permatex, use it on the differential cover when you change the fluid



Do NOT OVERTORQUE TRANS PAN BOLTS. They will break and ruin your day. Look at BrooklynBays chart for the spec. Tighten in a cross pattern, there is no specific pattern. Also, make sure the filter is tightened correctly. Whoever did mine last left it loose. Invest in a torque wrench if you work on cars.

On my 96, I do this procedure thru the trans upper radiator line. I slip a tube over the the metal tube flare fitting and put the other end in a bottle.... I stick a rag in the radiator fitting, a bit of fluid may dribble out.

Also, please use backup wrenches when you take the lines off. Think plumbing fittings. You do not want to break off the radiator fitting. Spray some pb blaster if they are hard to take off.

I guess I do need a torque wrench huh? I have put off getting one for far too long. Sounds like this application really needs it.

On my 94 I was just planning on diconnecting the tranmission out line from my B&M transmission cooler and plugging the other end, will this work?

If I simply disconnect the rubber hose from the transmission cooler, I do not have to worry about breaking anything, right?

 

[96eb96]

I guess I do need a torque wrench huh? I have put off getting one for far too long. Sounds like this application really needs it.

On my 94 I was just planning on diconnecting the tranmission out line from my B&M transmission cooler and plugging the other end, will this work?

If I simply disconnect the rubber hose from the transmission cooler, I do not have to worry about breaking anything, right?

If you have a trans cooler, thats golden and even easier. Others may read the thread and need to remove the radiator lines. Also, if you remove the rad lines its one less act of laying on the floor....

I like to use a torque wrench with gaskets because sometimes you never know when you overtighten. Some may be macho and do it by hand but its not worth the aggrivation of a broken bolt. Again, if you trust yourself with a wrench and feeling torque the torque wrench is optional. But I read many posts where people were crying about trans pan broken bolts. Now you can make your own decision. Another thing, if you do it by hand you may slightly undertighten, get a slight leak, and have to lay under the truck again to fix.

 

[protomind]

Well I do have 2 heavy duty transmission coolers actually, but I see your point about others without one needing the info.
I got a torque wrench loaner from autozone, it is a half inch drive and very long, I wonder if I will be needing a extension to take of the bolts. I do not have any half inch extensions.

 

[96eb96]

Well I do have 2 heavy duty transmission coolers actually, but I see your point about others without one needing the info.
I got a torque wrench loaner from autozone, it is a half inch drive and very long, I wonder if I will be needing a extension to take of the bolts. I do not have any half inch extensions.

a 1/2 -> 3/8 adapter is very inexpensive

 

[96eb96]

This tool is optional but makes it a bit easier to loosen and tighten the bolts before the final torquing.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95992

A ratchet is fine though.

 

[protomind]

Well, I finlly finished the job, it went well except for having a hard time with finding the correct size socket to remove and install the filter with. I hate to say that my tools are a bit unorganized at the moment and this was an example of how organized tools, is a very good thing.
The only other issue I had was not being familier with a torque wrench and I ended up tightening the pan back by hand.

I was wondering if I sould have used anti-sieze on the botls ? ? I am prepared to go back soon and reapply it if needed. I did however drop a little trans fluid on each of the bolts before putting them back in place.
When I have a little more time on my hands I will update this thread, just about to make a move so I will be busy as hell for a few days.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You don't have to remove the bolts to apply anti seize. Check for leaks in about a day, and make sure that the fluid level is correct.

 

[96eb96]

Well, I finlly finished the job, it went well except for having a hard time with finding the correct size socket to remove and install the filter with. I hate to say that my tools are a bit unorganized at the moment and this was an example of how organized tools, is a very good thing.
The only other issue I had was not being familier with a torque wrench and I ended up tightening the pan back by hand.

I was wondering if I sould have used anti-sieze on the botls ? ? I am prepared to go back soon and reapply it if needed. I did however drop a little trans fluid on each of the bolts before putting them back in place.
When I have a little more time on my hands I will update this thread, just about to make a move so I will be busy as hell for a few days.

BrooklynBay is right there...
No antisieze on those bolts. Even oil is not necessary. Precise fluid level is important on these units, so be sure to check.

And pat yourself on the back, the Ford dealers here charge around $275 for a filter change and total fluid exchange!

 

[protomind]

Well, the fluid level seems fine, however, I thought it was fine and drove it for a little bit, lets say 25 miles around town. Rechecked it and had to add more, do you think this may have done any damage?

BTW next time this should be cake for me to do.

 

[96eb96]

Well, the fluid level seems fine, however, I thought it was fine and drove it for a little bit, lets say 25 miles around town. Rechecked it and had to add more, do you think this may have done any damage?

BTW next time this should be cake for me to do.

Even professional services tell you to come back or check the level yourself.
No problem if caught within a few trips. The damage happens when you have delayed shifts/slipping that you neglect for weeks or months. Make sure to check the fluid level when hot after 10-15 miles.

 

[protomind]

I would just like to thank everyone here that helped me with this and other things I have done to the truck. I just towed a 6x12 1220lb trailer fully packed and loaded with me and my GFs belongings from detroit, mi to edison, nj with no real problems whatsoever. I believe the trailer weighed in at about 3400lbs loaded plus whatever cargo was in the truck plus me and the GF. So I think it was safe to say that I was quite a bit over the factory towing spec with my 3.27 rearend.
special thanks to jdraper for offering his help outside of this forum and accepting my phone calls =)

I will be updating this thread in a few days or so after I get settled in the new place.