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MORE A4LD issues

Masterd

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 16, 2005
Messages
806
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6
City, State
Upland, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer Sport
My A4LD is having some new issues. Aside from a sticking governor, and losing 4th gear....now it appears that 3rd and maybe even 2nd have lost their engine braking when I let off the throttle. If I get back on the gas, instead of the gear engaging right back in, theres no engagement until the revs are back up to where the gear was before. Anything before that feels like neutral.

Any help is good. Thanks.

Edit - After more testing, heres what Im seeing.

- Manual 1 didn't have engine braking at all, but I'm not sure if its supposed to.

- Manual 2 was hit or miss, sometime id let off and itd drop to idle, sometimes it would hold.

When in the D position 1 still didnt have engine braking, but 2 and 3 behaved well. Maybe the real problem here is that the tranny isn't re-engaging the gear correctly?
 



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I'm guessing it is time for a rebuild. No tuning will help with the issues you are seeing.

It is possible that you've blown the plate gasket between the valve body and the case, but even so, you are now talking about a transmission that is 15 or more years old. Nothing lasts forever.

In your case, with no engine braking, I'd expect that a sun shell has broken.

Opera House -- one of the resident experts at the A4LD transmission posted the following in another thread:

Opera House said:
12-06-2002, 05:36 AM

There are eight major mechanical "clutch" components in the 91-94 A4LD. There are three bands (overdrive, intermediate & low/reverse), three clutches (overdrive, reverse/high,& forward), and two one way clutches (overdrive & rear). The following simple tests can begin to isolate the problem. Prior to performing these tests, check for correct transmission fluid levels when the engine is warm. Look for discolored fluid with a burnt odor.

1. Does the vehicle move with the shift lever in reverse? This tests the overdrive clutch, overdrive one way clutch, reverse/high clutch, and the low/reverse band. This is a primary a test for Low/Reverse band.

2. Does the vehicle move with the shift lever in manual low (1) position. This tests the overdrive clutch, overdrive one way clutch, forward clutch, low reverse band, and the rear one way clutch. This is a primary a test for Forward clutch.

3. Does the vehicle move with the shift lever in manual second (2). This tests the overdrive clutch, overdrive one way clutch, intermediate band, and the forward clutch. This is a primary a test for Intermediate band.

4. Find a fairly steep hill and point the vehicle in a downward direction. Place the vehicle in manual low(1). Remove your foot from the brake and do not touch the gas pedal. Allow the vehicle to accelerate on it's own. There should be significant engine braking as indicated by the tach going to 2-3K. This is the primary a test for Low/Reverse band servo leakage.

5. Find a level section of highway and travel at a steady speed of 55-60. Observe the reading on the tach. Now, gently apply the brake with your left foot. You only want to apply enough pressure to operate the brake light. The rpm on the tach should increase 300-400 rpm. This will disengage the torque converter clutch. If the rpm does not increase, the torque converter was not engaged prior to applying the brake. This likely indicates a valve body or TCC solenoid problem. If you see a rpm the TCC is working.

6. At highway speeds, the tach is where it always used to be. If a lot higher, then this indicates a problem in the overdrive section of the transmission. This tests the overdrive band, reverse/high clutch, and the forward clutch. If tach rpm is normal then the overdrive is still working.

7. The transmission has a later shift point than it used to have in drive out of both first and second. This indicates a problem with the vacuum modulator. Check the vacuum hose going to the modulator at the vacuum tree for signs of transmission fluid.

8. The transmission has a later shift point than it used to have in drive only out of first. This indicates a problem with the speed governor.

9. When the vehicle is cold, the transmission is slow to go into forward or reverse when you first try to remove it. This is likely a clogged filter and very old fluid. This is a precursor to other problems. The pan should be dropped and inspected for debris. This is only a partial list of diagnostics but it will identify many problem areas. The ATSG manual has 15 pages of diagnostics.
 






I ran out and did a little testing from that list:

1) Pass...reverse works fine

2) Pass, manual 1 works fine

3) Pass, manual 2 works fine

4) Fail...no engine braking in manual 1

5) Pass...TC locks and unlocks fine

6) Fail... 4th gear went out a while back

7) Pass...once warm 1 and 2 shift at normal points

8) Fail...Governor has issues and tranny wont shift 1-2 until its slightly warm.

9) ???...Foreward engages nicely, and so does reverse, but if I park it and come back to it and go to reverse, it kinda flairs before engaging....I can make it go in perfectly if I rev it, let it idle, and then go to reverse....seems like a low/rev pressure issue.

The smoking gun here is probably a broken OD band, since the only thing that uses it is the OD engagement.
 












I don't have a torque wrench, or I would get under there and try tightening it.

My next thought would be to take the tranny pan off...but again, without a torque wrench to tighten them back to spec I dont know...
 












Went and bought a torque wrench, but didn't have the right socket to fit the adjustment nut, and I'm glad I didn't go buy more sockets, because theres absolutely 0 room to work under there.

So instead I loosened the locknut, and got a crescent wrench on the adjusted nut, and tried tightening it, and it felt like it was tightening ok, but not knowing where 10ft/lbs was, I stopped and turned it back a bit.....but no dice when driving it, not even a little change....

Underneath I did notice the connectors (2) on the tranny were black with oil, since my rear main leaks...could this be an issue??? I was too frustrated and pissed off to even bother with them.

:roll:
 












Torque wrench came from Autozone...

The sockets were the issue, even If I had room to work, my 6 point sockets wouldn't have done me any good.

Since you said the 3 prong connector controls 3-4 and TCC...I don't think the connectors are at fault because my TCC works fine...

The last noise I heard from 4th was a loud humming noise, before I put it from OD to D, and then 4th never came back.

1st gear has NO engine braking in any position, OD, D, or Manual, but 2 engine brakes fine....3 is also hit or miss on engine braking.

Im starting to get confused.
 












Nope...haven't touched much really....


Just got back from grabbing dinner though, and manual 1 will engine brake, If keep the revs at 2500 for a few seconds before letting off, otherwise It drops to idle....Twice when it dropped to idle I got it to make some horrific high pitched grinding noise......not sure what thats about.
 












Nope its a 2WD.....tonight is the first time Ive ever heard it make any unusual nosies, and happened in manual 1 when the revs would drop instead of it engine braking....it made a high pithed grinding noise for a few seconds.
 






Hey Brooklyn...

Do you think this issue could be a valve body thing? Sometimes the engine braking aint there, and sometimes it is.....and if I floor it and gets the revs up and let off, its there.....makes me think the valve body is dirty, and it would make sense seeing that the governor is messed up as well.
 












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