My 5r55e to M5OD-R1HD swap

[Caejxr]

Alright I've Crunched my way through my 4th 5r55e on my 97 OHV so its time to upgrade. I cant stand the old girl just sitting in my garage but Im in flight school so time is hard to come by.

Im in the process of gathering up parts at the moment but I already have:

manual 1354 tc currently on the truck
PCM from a 97 ranger 4x2 4.0L OHV (any inputs? I may get mine re-flashed but its $95 at ford.)
Transmission Wire harness from above. Up to and including the larger 12 pin plug. (Figured I'd splice it in if need be and have a nice plugged wire harness)
Brake/clutch assembly
Master Clutch Cylinder
Slave cylinder
Smart parts Rebuilt M5OD-R1

Still need to find/buy:

Clutch Assy./kit
Master-slave hydro tube (really expensive for what it is like $89)
Flywheel
Seals and bolts
Fluids
Trans shift linkage and shifter/boot etc.
CPP sensor

Anything missing?

I'll keep updating as I go and I'll try to get good pictures. This is my first venture into a Standard transmission so it may be a challenge. I decided to buy the reman. because the JY ones i have found were either 2wd or the same price shipped so it seemed smarter.

Like I said I don't have a lot of time for working on this so it will be a slow and on going process for a while. (not to mention I need to take it easy so I don't make the wife nervous about $$)

 

[Caejxr]

The M5OD came a few days early! Not a bad deal. Now, if only I had the time right now to really get started.

Strapped into its temporary home in the back of the Ex.

 

[Caejxr]

Time to take a break from all this studying.

picked up a reverse light sensor for the trans today

Ive got a clutch kit on the way as well as the hydro. clutch line and bolts for the flywheel and a new flywheel

I bolted the slave onto the trans I guess any progress is progress.

I also poked around to figure out whats going on with the wiring. Its been slow going trying to figure it out. My trans harness un plugs at a 16 pin connector up agains the firewall between the bell housing and the block. It looks like I should be able to plug right into it with the harness I got off the 97 ranger. So far it looks like it all matches as far as wiring goes. Obviously I wont be using all of the auto trans sensors so all I really need to do is tap into the range sensor wires for the starter loop and the reverse lights.

In this one you can see the blanks for the pins which are used on the auto. The auto harness has two connectors c118 and the c113 connectors there's a good pinout somewhere in the forum. But the manual harness uses a combination of wires from both.

I labeled the wires after I figured out the colors on the other end with the plugs incase I end up splicing wires together. they all match the colors on the auto harness and I'll be using the o2 sensors of the auto harness

Ive also got a picture of the clutch master with the Clutch Pedal Position sensor attached. I wasn't able to find any during my searches so when I figured it out I thought I'd contribute. The sensor and rod go into the master AFTER you've installed it through the firewall. (more on that later)

 

[PJCanadaXLT]

does your Ex have the full center console?

 

[Caejxr]

No, and I've already cut the floor plate for a manual t-case shifter I did a while back so i'll have to cut it up more for the trans shifter when I get it.

 

[Caejxr]

More parts have arrived, I got my flywheel and hydo clutch line (im disappointed it's plastic at nearly 90 bucks). Also got the clutch kit and the manual block plate I order the plate from Ford for 40 bucks. It was the easiest way I could find it.

Heres a pic with the 4.0l block plate's part number for anyone who may be searching in the future. Maybe you'll be able to find one cheaper than I could.

 

[Caejxr]

Here's the Hurst shifter that just came in the mail. All thats left now is to pick up a starter and the work begins..at some point.

 

[Caejxr]

Update: took apart my manual harness and built a new one for the reverse lights and starter circuit. Im keeping my auto harness in tact and using inline splices due to having a computer for my 5r55e and for a 2wd manual Ranger

Went this route so I can swap back and forth as inevitable rebuilds ensue.

Both computers run the engine problem free (as far as I can tell from my "lets plug it in and see what happens" test.) Because I have a manual t case and trans the 2wd computer is going to eliminate any flashing dash lights which I am looking forward to.

The computer is coded bps2 for anyone who's wondering and I'll update as things progress and Include pictures of the swap. Swap should be in the next month. I'll go to the auto hobby shop on base and rent a lift bay and a trans jack to simplify this. Who knows maybe I'll get to use air tools for this one too!

The 2 red and blue wires are the starter loop wire (bypasses the harness which lets the auto start only in P or N) One connects to the pink wire of the range sensor the other connects to the matching red with blue stripe wire.

The Purple and orange wire matches color to the range sensor wire for the reverse lights as does the black wire with pink stripe.

The wires afore mentioned in order of bottom to top are the (3 at the very bottom) Purp/Or reverse light, red/blu starter, pink starter
(wire at very top) blk/pink reverse light ...ah and please excuse the temp sensor and wire in the middle of the shot.

 

[Caejxr]

Pre-bled the master and slave yesterday after watching perfection clutch's video which i found over at the ranger station.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91IYY_YENRw

IOT bolt up the trans I'll have to release the pressure in the slave since its full of fluid but it will ensure there's no air in the system. All that needs to be done is simply open the bleeder on the slave and the extra fluid (and any left over air) will be forced out as the slave is compressed into place. The check valves in the system make it a breeze to take care of. No air in-no fluid out!

 

[Caejxr]

Well I had a friend come over today to help me drop the auto trans after some studying. Unfortunately the top four bolts are still in place and they are in there TIGHT. Like the last time i was at the dealer in Aug. they rammed them in there with some air tools.

Their soaking in PB blaster again overnight now but we both put a lot of effort into trying to break those loose even with the cheater pipe slipped over the socket handle we could not get them. We were really yanking on it, the ratchet gears failed at one point I was pulling so hard.

So, now it looks like the trans will be half held in by ratchet straps half by stuck bolts for another week or more until I can get under there again and figure this out.

Anyone dealt with those hard to reach bell housing bolts being stuck that tight and know a good way to get them loose?


Other than that, this morning I removed the Y pipe from the headers after soaking in pb blaster for a few days, two bolts per head and three on the first cat I think they were all 1/2".
I drained the fluid from the 5r55e by unbolting the pan I'll probably put in a drain while its out. Unbolted the three bolts on either side of the crossmember the bolt heads are 13mm the nuts were 15mm and the 2 18mm nuts up in the center. Then smashed it out with a 3.5' crowbar and a drilling hammer. (most fun of it all yet)
Ford modified my cross member to be more easily removed with the lift brackets and trimmed the corners and ends down to slide out between them more easily...it wasn't very easy... I'll try to get pictures of everything later on.

I unbolted the brake pedal and swapped in the clutch pedal assembly from the JY. I removed and kept the retaining pin, spacers and sensor on the brake pedal. Then used a universal joint shoved up in there with the socket on the end of an extension to get around all the junk under the dash to the top most bolts and the four around the brake master.
Once the pedal is unbolted the brake master comes free and you can push it into the engine bay so you can move the pedal assemblies in and out. This was a good time to bolt the clutch reservoir to the inside of the engine bay left of the relay box where there were already some factory-made. After I had the pedals in I pushed the brake master back into place and bolted it all back up tight and re installed the parts I saved for the sensor and retaining pin.

We then moved onto the master cylinder. That was a chore. I cut away a load of tupperware to make my life easier and it could be covered back up with new splash guards which i need desperately as is. We ended up having one person inside the cab align the square on the master into the square opening of the bracket and have the person outside push it in from the bottom while the person inside used vise grips to rotate and lock the master into place. after that was done the rubber seal for the fire wall just gets pushed in. Took us a bit to get it figured out how to lock the master in but once we did it was easy. As for the molded plastic clutch line I just tucked it away along the frame rail to hook up to the slave after everything was done.

Now its time for a brew and hoping the truck fairy comes and finishes all this work for me tonight so I don't drop anymore wrenches on my face.

 

[Caejxr]

Well its all buttoned up and drives fine. Although I now have a head gasket leak to deal with. Broke those troublesome bolts free with a 1/2 in drive 20" breaker bar and a cheater pipe on top of that...those bell housing bolts took some effort and unfortunately 2 were stripped from the block so I only have 6 usable threaded holes in the block which I need to figure out (maybe a longer bolt) all of those bell housing bolts were 1/2". I used 4 ratchet straps to lower the 5r55e down to the garage floor alternating the straps I loosened. (it's a technique..not the smartest but it's done). Once that was done I removed the auto starter with the 1/2" socket and a 14mm wrench (I think). The new manual starter had been changed from a blade to a plug style connector so I had to cut the old wire and change it. removing the torque converter was next and man was that a pain. There are 4 bolts holding it to the flexplate. 3 went with no issues but the 4th was rounded off smooth...sooo out came the cutting wheel and I cut the mount off. That was a bummer since each fin in there was individually brazed to harden it and make it a bit heavier duty. The bolts holding the flywheel to the block were 8 torx head bolts (t30 socket) which went without too much effort with the breaker bar and 1/2" drive.

 

[Caejxr]

I would have been on to finish this up with more detail but after I got all done it was blowing coolant so turns out both cylinder heads are cracked by the middle cylinder cooling ports. So now it's in the shop since I don't have the time right now.

 

[Caejxr]

EVAP code help please

Alright I got the truck back out of the shop everythings great and runs fine but I have a CEL that I want to be free of and be able to pass emissions.

I've got a code for p1445 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Input

Does the 97 4.0L ohv explorer have a purge flow sensor?
If so where is it because I didn't see it between the purge solenoid and manifold?
Could a faulty Canister vent solenoid cause this code?

Related info:
Purge solenoid tested good
Vent solenoid tested bad
No apparent leaks
Fuel tank "wooshes" when opened on hot days indicating a high pressue state (probably vent solenoid related)


Thanks in advanced any help is appreciated!

 

[Caejxr]

I actually THINK I may have answered my own question. Autozone's web page mentioned a vent solenoid malfunction could cause the code. I guess I could try to swap it out and see if I get the code back. If I do I'll return it and get my old PCM flashed to manual and go from there. (costs the same at Ford as the vent solenoid would run me..)

 

[mowzuppa]

I know its been a while but you seem like the best person to ask. I've racking.my brain trying to figure this out. If I didn't care about a CPP or reverse lights, would I need to do any of the wiring? Would the engine still just turn right over? As long as the neutral safety switch is plugged in and in the park position? Thanks so much in advance