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My 96 Explorer won't start.

fordbobw

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October 22, 2010
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Year, Model & Trim Level
96 XLT4.0, 99 EB Explorer
Have followed several threads here, great advice!
Car had some strange starts lately, then after started one day I turned it quickly off to run back inside, then would not start. Fuel Relay kicks in nice (tried swapping it with others just in case), fuses look good (swapped them and they work in other spots), inertia switch not-triggered (though tapped it with wrench to make it pop, then reset it - still nothing), will start/run with Ether until I stop spraining it into the air-intake. Changed fuel filter, then noticed no pump noise, hit with hammer, etc. - nothing. So, I followed the threads on cutting open floor and changing out fuel pump - still no pump spinning (old one actually worked when connected to battery - I obviously jumped the gun...) (thanks for the great access panel threads!). Almost like there is a kill switch somewhere. Have an alarm but not connected to starter, haven't used alarm in 9 years). Don't know if there could be some other 'kill' mechanism. Anyone have any ideas? Computer?
Regards,
Bob
 



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Does the check engine light illuminate when you first turn on the ignition? It could be the EEC relay.

Also, welcome to the forum.
 






Does the ck engine light come on when you turn the key on? Could be bad eec relay which then powers fuel pump relay.
 






Thanks for the welcome!
Yes, the check-engine light comes on when the key is turned on, and goes off during cranking.
Note: the CEL comes on periodically due to some other engine work my mechanic messed-up on last year, due to some burning-oil issues... will address them before the next inspection.
I've been browsing for the location of the EEC relay and have not found it yet, though I've seen some interesting threads related to it, and some pictures for other models. Would you be able to tell me where it is?
I'm still worried that it is security related... I've seen some threads (some of them European) related to some computer issues that required keying in my car's computer code using the ignition key, is that some avenue I should pursue?
Thanks Guys!!!
 






I just went through the wiring diagrams in my Chiltons and have the wiring color-codes, I'll pin into them when I get home to verify that power is going through the fuse/relay/i-switch to the pump. Somewhere along the line there must be an open since if that relay and inertia switch is truely operating correctly there appears to be nothing else in the path. Will need to check if the tank is properly grounded (I'll measure from power to the tank, and tank to chassis).
No VIP connector on a 96 4.0L it seems, correct (Chiltons says I can short the FP pin to turn on the fuel pump but I don't think this year-model has one)?
By the way; I am amazed that the wiring inside the tank is exposed to liquids, I would think that gas splashing up to the exposed connections would short the pump (and make a spark).
 






Update:
With the wiring diagrams in hand, a paper-clip, and some needles I was able to prove that power is getting to the fuel-pump and there is a ground, i.e. I can read 12V (for that one second, then 6.7V later - probably left over storage to the motor's inductor) from the Red wire to the tank, and also across to the Black. Interesting though, how does the Inertia Switch Pink/Blk get to the Red wire, i.e. what is in-between the switch and the pump(?), no connector shows in the Chiltons, but must be something?
The motor sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't. Almost out of Ether and it barely sounded like it would start with that.
Even put battery power directly to the pump (via spare battery; gnd to tank, pos to needle through Red lead) when my wife was cranking the engine...
I've located the fuel pressure connection and will try to locate a fuel guage to verify pressure. When I get back to it I'll re-check how good the spark is with a screwdriver to the block, after that????
 












Thanks!

In summary, the truck is fixed and I just drove to work in it for the first time in two weeks. To keep it short; the first fuel-pump from Advanced didn't work, so I had to start diagnostics from scratch, to the point where it pointed to the fuel-pump again, picked up another one with no problem from Advanced, installed it again, and "ignition". Running great, just a big whole in the floor that needs to be patched.
I have some good pictures and some more detailed instructions that I'd like to post, I'll read up on how to do that, but if someone out there can save me the time in figuring that out - let me know.
Continue to post; your ideas and suggestions are very helpful!
Be well,
Bob
 












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