My no-budget 91 Sport SAS

Spoiler ending pic:

Just how cheaply can a SAS be done? I'm about to find out. Granted, I'm cheating because I have almost everything on hand from SASing my other Ex. Should have no problem getting it driving for under $500, getting it geared and locked up for under $1000.

Rig as it sits now:

91 Sport, 5spd, electric t-case, 3.73s, open/open, 31" ATs on stock suspension


What I have on hand:

Full width D44 from 74 F100. 1/2" tubes, welded on wedges (cut off), all gone through, Chevy knuckles/brakes with 5x5.5 bolt pattern. All brackets in place for 3-link with panhard.

Full width 8.8 in good used condition but nothing gone through on it. May exchange for a 9".

1354M t-case with all linkage, has not been gone through but was behind my DD until I pulled it out for the 1/2 ton drivetrain.

Piles of misc steel, to fab what ever other brackets I need.

Box of poly bushings and sleeves for control arms.

36" TSLs on steelies.

3.5" Jeep coils, 13" travel Ranchos, F250 shock towers.

Complete 1.5" diameter .25 wall DOM steering kit with 1 ton Chevy TREs.

Double cardan rear driveshaft, 2" longer than stock.


Needed:

Flex joints for frame end of long arms, Shocker or Summit weld-on for $30 or $45. 2 or 3 needed, depending whether I go true 3 link or "Y-link" radius arms.

Chevy D44 brake calipers and pads, $20 each, $80 total.

Panhard, steel on hand, need 3/4" heim kit, $50 with all the trimmings off ebay.

US Standard 5:13 gears for 8.8 $150.

Sierra Gear 5:13 for D44 $127. 3.92+ carrier ~$50.


Total so far $567

 

[rookieshooter]

So yeah, almost a year later and I'm just now getting around to it. Plans have been tweaked quite a bit.

Debating, should I do my arms angled in at a more extreme angle or more parallel to each other? I've seen itsaid that an extreme angle will reduce bind but increase the tendency to roll. Also should build both arms the same or make one "wrested". My last SAS used Y-link radius arms and it made no difference if I pulled one upper.

When I used torun rear radius arms something like your thinking, I ran wristed, what a difference when doing trails and you get all the more articulation when I removed one bolt/pull pin. I had both arms exactly the same with four mounting points in the rear, and then just removed one when I wanted it wristed. If they're not wristed it will act like a traction bar with all four bolts in at rear. One was a pull pin.
But the down side is you will get all kinds of rear steer, now remember I have coilovers. On my angles looking down from the top I had them about parallel with the frame, main reason I run on the outboard side of the frame.

I know on my new double tri-angulated linked D70 that I had to raise the upper link from rear to frame end to better control the roll axis since I do not need a track bar no more plus no more rear steer issues. Now this is for better street manners also. For trails I can move the tie in point further down if need be. That's one reason I have multiple tie in points.

 

[damarble]

Note trac bar mount rotated to front of axle tube-trac bar in front of cross member.

Oh yeah, the stock Jeep location blows. My new packaging uses the available room much better. I have it sitting 4" over stock with 4" uptravel. My goal was to stay low and it's more achievable on 1st gen frames.

 

[damarble]

Finally some finished shots.

 

[damarble]

Flex

Stuffage

The suspension is a great success, now the rest of the rig has to get up to par. I managed to hydrolock it and bend a pushrod or two and smash a hole in the rear diff.

 

[damarble]

Anybody want to see another V8 swap?

Considering preempting any future problems with this 4.0L now that it has water in it and going straight to a V8. Here's my plan, old 302 Econolines and Crown Vics and such are very cheap. Buy one for the motor and electronics, scrap the rest, may come out about even. I have a 4spd I've been saving for this too. Would have to source a NP205. Seems like I could get it going for under $500 if I'm frugal.

 

[damarble]

It's on, I am now in possession of complete 90 F150 5.8L donor.

 

[OffTrac]

Somehow missed this. Watching. I do happen to have a spare 351W.

 

[damarble]

I expect the swap will be slow developing, I'm enjoying getting to actually go wheeling again and am not it a hurry to purposely disable a perfectly fine running vehicle. Still need a bellhousing, flywheel, clutch and decide on t-case then get it.

Speaking of which, what I thought was a bent pushrod was really the alternator! It died and after putting in the replacement the clatter is gone.

 

[2004xlmiller]

did you need a drop pitman arm or just use the stock one?

 

[damarble]

Stock worked great. Now that I think of it a dropped pitman would screw everything up badly, it would be challenging to get the tracbar and drag link parallel.

 

[Blue91Ex]

this is so awesome, nice job man, cant wait to see the 5.8 swap if you do end up going that way.

 

[damarble]

Just an update, the SAS has been performing great, I wouldn't have changed a thing. Great road manners and tons of flex offroad.

But it's getting ripped out. I want big tires.

I've been collecting parts to build a front 9" and I have a D60 for the rear. Over the summer I'll work on that as well as getting the 5.8L installed.

 

[damarble]

I change my mind like a woman. I haven't torn it apart yet and am actually thinking of selling it and going back to building the 01. Any ideas on a good starting price? I'm going to cut out the rockers and put some sliders on first and possibly a quick cheap paint job.

 

[Blue91Ex]

i would start probably around 1-2k if there isnt anything wrong mechanically and it isnt rusted or trashed inside, might actually be too low based on the SAS etc. i hope you change you rmind again and keep it going though!

 

[damarble]

i would start probably around 1-2k if there isnt anything wrong mechanically and it isnt rusted or trashed inside, might actually be too low based on the SAS etc. i hope you change you rmind again and keep it going though!

Only rust is in the rockers which is why I'm cutting them out. The interior is about 8/10, pretty clean and not torn up. Mechanically the only thing wrong is the TPS and/or temp sensor is acting up, I hope to fix it soon, and 2nd gear can be hard to get into sometimes.

 

[Blue91Ex]

i kinda know how you feel, i dont have overdrive and my torque converter only works when it feels like it, and i need new rockers this summer and a new thermostat... along with the long list of other things ive considered gettng another vehicle too but sit on it for a while you might change your mind, i dont think i could ever sell mine.

 

[damarble]

I don't really want to sell it but I've owned it a long time and gotten my use out of it. It's a good solid rig that rarely gives me trouble. It's always fun to drive and turns heads.

I have too many cars (5) and too many of them are projects (4). I'm in a little bit of a money pinch and need to thin the herd a little anyway.

I think I'd have to get at least $2k to be worth it.

 

[Blue91Ex]

well i would be happy to take it off your hands but i have no money haha, it really is a sweet truck man. i bet someone would buy it for 2k or more, i was just thinking book value.i valued mine (as a 94 since KBB doesnt have 91 as an option anymore) and it was only like 850-1k.... but i have a lot more mechanical and body rust issues than you do.