Originally posted by fuzzie
aldive,
This is from your post, my comments are in CAPS (sorry if it is poor form):
(1) The following is a list of modifications that have resulted in the mileage reported on my 99 4.0 SOHC:
Mobil 1 5 w 30 synthetic motor oil - DO YOU ALWAYS USE THIS, CAN YOU GO BACK TO REGULAR OIL AFTER MAKING THE CHANGE?
(2) Mobil 1 ATF in auto tranny ( a complete change ) - SAME QUESTION?
(3) Mobil 1 in the 3.73 rear end - HOW DO WE TELL WHAT REAR WE HAVE? I HAVE A 97 XLT, 4X4
(4) KKM Tru Rev intake - WHAT IS THIS? HOW MUCH DID IT COST AND WAS IT HARD TO PUT IN? ONE FELLOW SAID HE REPLACED HIS AIR INTAKE WITH A DRYER HOSE, IS THAT LIKE THIS?
(5) Custom cat back exhaust system - WHAT IS THIS, COST, ETC?
(6) Remove roof rack - DID YOU FILL THE HOLES WITH SOMETHING?
(7) Many coats of Zaino polish - DOES THIS REALLY HELP?
Tire pressure 40 psig
(8) Explorer Express X Spec air dam _ BUG DEFLECTOR THE SAME THING?
Amoco 87 octane gas
Secondary tranny filter ( don’t know if this helps )
I GET 15 MPG, STOCK.
Hope you don't mind if I answer Al (at least the ones I can).
(1) You can switch back to a heavier formulation of oil afterwards (i.e. from 5w30 to another). You can also go back to regular dino oil if you want.
(2) Same for the tranny. But I think that once you feel the difference and see the milage benefits, you'll keep using it. Laso, synthetics last longer, so you won't have to change the oil as much (unless you wnat to).
(3) On the differential housing there will be a little tag. It'llhave some number and letters on it. Read that, and post here. Someone will be able to tell you what it has. Also, you can look at the sticker in the door jamb. There are a whole bunch of letters and numbers. Same thing.
(4) This is an intake filter. It's just like the K&N filter only wihtout the CARB exmeption, so it's cheaper. Just as good though. If you live in a place with strict inspections, go with the K&N, if not, the KKM.
(5) Depends on which shop you go to. Mine was about $250 total price including the muffler I ordered from Summit Racing. Shop around.
(6) ON the 99 you don't need to fill any holes unless you remove the rails. The actual reack crossmembers slide out of the rails. I didn't remove my rails when I did this. The aerodynamic drag from the rails is negligible.
(7) No, but he has a really, really shiny truck!
(8) This is not a Bugflector. It's a big airdam that bolts underneath the front bumper. Here's a pic:
Al can fill in anything I left off. Most of these will work to improve gas milage. But as Al has pointed out before, DRIVING STYLE has the most impact.