My sliding door is stuck closed!

[DoOver]

Now my side door will not open. I looked at Brooklyns Sticky and it does not apply because I can't get the door opened. I took the inner panel off. The inside handle works and moves the horizontal rod that goes to the rear of the door. I took out a yellow round plug that also aligns the horizontal rod and worked the horizontal rod manually. Still the door won't open. Fiddled with the locks and any thing else I can think of. I also looked in from the track side thinking I could hit the lower lever that the horizontal rod actuates, no joy, as the lock is covered from the outside. Short of taking the hot wrench to the inside skin, I'm hoping there is a better way. Thanks.
Brian

 

[BrooklynBay]

The yellow connector is attached to the rod which opens the latch. With the rod disconnected, see if you could move the arm on the latch.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you get a chance to work on the door today? Is it open yet?

 

[DoOver]

Yes, I've been working on it. No, it's still stuck shut. When I pull the inside handle, the rear lock makes the 'clunk' sound like it has been unlatched, but no.
Brian

 

[BrooklynBay]

Are you referring to the inner handle as in the above picture or the main sliding door handle? The main handle won't work if the rod is detached from the yellow connector.

 

[DoOver]

The side door is now open. My wife worked on it today, as she is small enough to crawl over the front seats to get to it. The problem is at the handle location. She disconnected the horizontal drive rod that goes to the rear latch and turned the connector on the treaded horizantal drive rod to lenghten the push. That didn't completely fix the problem. She also put a electrical B/X connector over the nub of the peice that is accuated by the outside handle, that hits the locking device inside the door. What the B/X connector did was "bush" the nub to make it bigger, making a longer push. Basicly it is an adjustment problem. I wish I owned an electronic camera to illustrate this job for you all.
Brian

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update! It would be interesting to see if you could borrow a camera or a cell phone with a camera.

 

[DoOver]

Still it wouldn't help you guys. I am a low tech redneck. Wood fired computer. 9" CRT. Dial up on a hill billie party line. And No USB connection. No Cell service in my area unless you go to the top of the hill. Plus I got to pick up cans to buy film for my Brownie.
Brian

 

[JayT]

I was about to suggest a mixture of diesel fuel, and ammonium nitrate to force the door open.

 

[Jose A.]

Still it wouldn't help you guys. I am a low tech redneck. Wood fired computer. 9" CRT. Dial up on a hill billie party line. And No USB connection. No Cell service in my area unless you go to the top of the hill. Plus I got to pick up cans to buy film for my Brownie.
Brian

but you have a very smart wife who managed to open the door. count yer blessings!

 

[GrandpaDan]

Now my side door will not open. I looked at Brooklyns Sticky and it does not apply because I can't get the door opened. I took the inner panel off. The inside handle works and moves the horizontal rod that goes to the rear of the door. I took out a yellow round plug that also aligns the horizontal rod and worked the horizontal rod manually. Still the door won't open. Fiddled with the locks and any thing else I can think of. I also looked in from the track side thinking I could hit the lower lever that the horizontal rod actuates, no joy, as the lock is covered from the outside. Short of taking the hot wrench to the inside skin, I'm hoping there is a better way. Thanks.
Brian

I had the same problem. Took off the inside panel, and after lots of huffing and puffing...put a set of vice grips on the actuating rod, tapped it back (to the right) with a hammer, and the latch popped open. I can see that 330,000 miles of use has worn out that latch pretty good. Looks like the last owner had some trouble...all the bolts were way beyond the recommended torque and probably coated with locktight. One is giving me that "I'm going to break if you try much harder" feel. I ordered a new latch.

 

[GrandpaDan]

Installed new latch, but something is not right...the rod that pushes the latch doesn't move when I operate the door handle. It seems something is missing...a part that broke or came off...that connects the rod lever mechanism to the handle. I need a good blow-up of the handle mechanism...everything I've seen is too small to see detail. Any suggestions?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The only thing that connects the rod to the latch is a small yellow plastic bushing.

 

[GrandpaDan]

The only thing that connects the rod to the latch is a small yellow plastic bushing.

My mistake...I couldn't get the handle to operate the rod, and thought something was missing...and it was simply that the electric door lock was engaged...so of course, the handle won't do anything.
I'll finish the job up today.

 

[Icuff4cash]

Do you have a ford manual. I got a service DVDs if you don't have a diagram of the inside of the side door

 

[GrandpaDan]

Do you have a ford manual. I got a service DVDs if you don't have a diagram of the inside of the side door

Yeah...I have a Ford Manual, but the detail on the handle mechanism is too small to see detail. But...as it worked out, no problem...because it was my clumsy mistake. The only part missing was my brain, when I realized the handle wasn't engaging because the electric lock was on. Duh.
The replacement latch is slightly different than the original...it's been beefed up in places, and seems to work better than the old one. I'm leaving the inside panels off for a few days to do adjustments, but so far it slides and latches very nicely.