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My System w/ A Thunderform

mindless2

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Joined
March 3, 2008
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Year, Model & Trim Level
00 XLT, 10 XLT, 10XLT
So with some suggestions from this site I finally got my system installed! It is not much, but it is 1000x better than the stock system was.
I actually have had my setup for a while, just got around to making a thread about it.
There was 2 goals for my system:
1) Not be super expensive
2) Not take up a lot of room

For my first goal, everything cost just under $400, but that helped by the fact that I found some great deals. I got the thunderform enclosure + sub for $60 on craigslist, and new I think they are $300+. I was looking for one for like 2 months though. I also got my amp with a $40 off coupon, so I only paid $90 (which is a steal in my opinion).

My 2nd goal limited me quite a bit, but I really use the trunk space all the time so I did not want a big box in there. My solution was a MTX thunderform enclosure.

I have a Sony CDX-GT620IP head unit that powers the door speakers. The main thing I like is that it has aux out and an iPod data cable.
hu.jpg


The front door speakers are some Phoneix Gold 6x8's. With shipping it was less than $50 for them, and they are great. Rear speakers are stock.
I thought about getting an amp for the front speakers, but decided against it because space was limited.

My amp is a Cadence TXA-3002. I have it bridged right now, and it is capable of 600w rms@4ohm. My current sub can not handle that much power, and I am looking to upgrade.
It is mounted under my rear seat. It fits great, and if the seats need to be folded down, I just have to slide it forward a little.
amp1.jpg


amp2.jpg


My sub is one of the MTX Thunderform enclosures with a Thunder 6000 sub in it. I purchased this used, and I don't think that is the sub that came with it, but that's fine.
Here is a picture when I put it in.
after1.jpg


The side was kind of hard to do by myself, and I actually never took the whole thing off, but I managed. That side piece got stuck in 2 places- that metal flap that pushes against the rear seats and up top near that coat hook thing. I removed the metal flaps, but did not have the other tools, so I worked around it.

Before:
before.jpg


After:
after2.jpg

Overall I am pleased with my system, and music sounds so much better now. I am already looking to upgrade my sub though. I have heard great things about this sub, so that will be my next project.

Feel free to ask any questions about removing the side or running the wires to the back. All of my wires are hidden, so it looks pretty stock, which was my goal. I know my system is nothing special, but if someone is undecided on how something will work or look, maybe this will help them :).
 



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nice....also a sub does not "draw" power...power is applied to a speaker
 












uh, a subwoofer DOES draw power, it's a resistive/inductive load, it's just that the power is supplied by the amplifier
 






It took me like ~1.5h, but that included going to ace because I did not have a T-50 torx bit. Could be done a lot faster but I was in no real rush and was being careful.
 






uh, a subwoofer DOES draw power, it's a resistive/inductive load, it's just that the power is supplied by the amplifier

you just contradicted yourself there...a resistive/inductive load does not draw power..power is APPLIED to it. Drawing power would be the AMP drawing power from the electrical system...your statement...WRONG

So going on what YOU said...if a subwoofer draws power than it PULLS power from the amp...which is NOT TRUE. If the sub DID draw power than there would be NO NEED for a gain control...the sub would draw however much power it wanted...which is not the case on Earth...maybe somewhere else in the universe but here the laws of physics apply
 






you know aznboi3644, you try to draw everyone into an argument but i'm not gonna play :)
 






i dont see how aznboi s trying to lure you into an argument. he is stating how it works and is showing a little frustration. he is right if a sub drew power there would be no need for a gain and there wouldnt be ohm ratings a sub would be a sub. and all companies like JL FI, RE, MTX, ETC. would have wasted years and years of development on their subwoofers and their pirsuit to be "unique"
 
























I'm not trying to argue at all...the physics is pretty simple
 






The cover came with the speaker, but I also contacted Q-Logic(Another company that makes enclosures for that spot) and a cover can be purchased from them for $15.
 












Nice pics, I had purchased a powered sub like that from Crutchfield years ago & its sounded pretty horrible with the stock head unit. I use the cargo area also & didnt want to fill it up with a big sub box. Didnt want to replace stock head unit as it controls 6disc changer so I removed it. One question I have is in your stock pic you have a plastic like compartment on the opening, mine is netting. Do u know where I can get the plastic and if it would work on a 95?
 






Can you get those thunderform things for a 2003 Ford Explorer Sport?
 












The cover came with the speaker, but I also contacted Q-Logic(Another company that makes enclosures for that spot) and a cover can be purchased from them for $15.

Q-Logic has gone buh-bye. You may be able to get some of their remaining stock (so hurry), but the company is dead. Actually, they've been fairly quiet since Rockford bought them many years back.:(
 






On Crutchfield, those MTX enclosures are $349 10" w/no amp, $499 10" w/amp.
 



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