My X won't hold idle or stay running (1998, 4.0L) | Ford Explorer Forums

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My X won't hold idle or stay running (1998, 4.0L)

qxx

Member
Joined
June 7, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Boston
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 Sport V6 4.0L SOHC
I'm going to try and provide as much detail as possible because I am sort of at my wits end and running out of possibilities quickly. So any feedback is appreciated.

Specs:
1998 Ford Explorer Sport
4WD
4.0L SOHC
226,000 miles

The Beginning
Got into the beast in the morning, drove 17 miles to work, parked and was idling having my morning cigarette; nothing unusual at this point. About 5 minutes later the Explorer just stalls. No sputtering or any signs that something was awry, the engine just stops as if it was shut off. I tried starting her back up and she cranks but won't turn over. I try this one and off over the course of a few hours and nothing. I tow it to my garage and naturally it starts up fine at that point and runs good enough to go up the drive way. Once up there, I turn it off and try to start it again and it won't start; cranks but won't turn over.

Current Status
Since then, it behaves in a variety of ways. If it starts, it's usually when it is cold (usually but not always). It struggles to idle when cold, sputtering somewhere between 500 and 1000 RPMs poorly. Once warmed up, it doesn't want to idle at all. I have to rev it way up and if it drops below 2000 RPM, it just tries to die out never stopping as it plummets to 0 RPMs.

Once it is warm [it seems], the only way to start it is so keep the key turned and cranking while giving it gas, holding the pedal to the floor. While doing this, it has a bunch of *almost* starts and if you get lucky it will finally start and even though it revs up to 4000 RPM because you have your foot on the gas, it will try to stall our right through that basically revving right up to 4000 and promptly descending to 0 RPM even though you have the gas pedal floored. When this happens it makes a deep, sad noise like it is getting no fuel (not saying that it is not getting fuel, just saying that is the sound).

Most commonly, when warm, you can eventually get it to start by cranking the key, flooring the gas and revving it up to around 2k, if you let your foot off it tries to die and you have to give it more gas to keep it running. Once in a blue moon, after enough revving, it will hold idle seemingly normally at around 1000 and sound great. Then, if you put it in reverse or drive, it immediately dies.

There has been once or twice where I've revved it warm and it has behaved normally; it'll idle normal, it'll go into reverse, drive and you can drive it back and forth normally. If you shut it off, you can restart it. But eventually, it goes back to it's broken type behavior outlined above.

The Troubleshooting
Because of the behavior above, I've done a lot of reading and digging around.

The first thing I did was put a pressure gauge on to check the fuel pressure; that checked out OK; it held pressure just fine.

Since then, I've replaced the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) and I've replaced the IAC (Idle Air Control valve).

Previously, I had a code indicating a bad O2 sensor; Bank 2, Sensor 1 so I replaced that too just because.

Also, I checked for vacuum leaks and found a slightly torn rubber gasket on the brake booster so I replaced that and also there were 2 loose screws where my upper intake manifold and I tightened those. Still, there could be a vacuum leak somewhere as we all know, but aside from those 2 spots I couldn't easily find any after much searching.

None of the replacement or fixes above have changed the way the truck behaves; it is still broken and showing the same symptoms.

At this point, I've taken the entire upper and lower intake manifolds off just to clean them while I try to figure something out (much carbon build up inside of them). The EGR tube is also filthy as hell and covered in carbon. Not sure if I should clean or replace that or if it's dirtiness even makes a difference.

So, with all that in mind, can anyone please help point me in the right direction? Anyone experience something similar or the same issue? Is there anything else I should logically check into as possible fixes?

Thanks, I'll keep a close eye on this thread and happy to answer any questions that may help lead to an answer.
 



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It appears you are more than capable of troublesooting. All I can say is search through 2000Street
Rod's Helpful Threads. Sounds like the SOHC's commonly failed upper and lower intake gaskets to me.
You mentioned removing and cleaning them, were they replaced? Throttle body cleaned?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263665
 






First off, great troubleshooting !

Have you checked for codes? Just throwing out ideas… could it be a crankshaft positioning sensor…?

If you get it running, have you tried to spray starter fluid around the vacuum lines? If the engine revs while you are spraying starter fluid around a vacuum connection then you may be dealing with a vacuum leak. Also, how does your coolant look? Any oil in there?
 






Much thanks!

I haven't replaced the gaskets for the intake manifolds [yet]. I'm still cleaning those things, which should take a while; they are pretty caked with carbon. I'm going to pick up a gasket kit just to be sure though, since I have them off now. When they were on, and I was troubleshooting, there didn't seem to be any vacuum leaks around them after I fixed the first one by tightening the screw(s).

I had the codes read a while back but not since the recent trouble has started. The CEL is on, though.

The previous codes were vacuum leaks and O2 sensor (p0174 i think and another that I forget offhand).

As you mentioned, I did spray around for vacuum leaks. That is how I found the tricky leak by the upper intake manifold (it would suck in the starter fluid/carb cleaner and bog down the engine a bit). After I tightened up those bolts, the spray wouldn't get sucked in or affect anything. I tried spraying around all over the top of the engine/vacuum areas and didn't notice anymore leaks (but, as we all know, vacuum leaks are tricky evasive things so there could be one hiding somewhere).

I'd like to read the codes again but don't have a code reader. Not sure, does AutoZone typically rent those out?

Also, does the EGR, EGR Solenoid or EGR Tube come into play for any of those possibly? I've never had to tinker with one before and not sure how a bad one behaves, etc...

Thanks for the quick replies already!
 






Hopefully not derailing from the initial thread, I'll put these details out here too just in case...

When I put it in reverse there was a pretty noticeable vacuum type sound. I'm honestly not sure if it always did that and I just didn't notice it before, or if it's supposed to do that or not. I was just obviously listening/watching for anything noteworthy at this point and that was one, I suppose.

And I did notice a ground strap that was broken as well. It appears to have rusted and just frayed apart. It is a ground strap wire like in the picture below. It runs from the driver's side firewall to the very back of the engine block, like right below the PCV valve. Any idea what that is for?

IoFxHl4.jpg
 






With or without a check engine light, scan for trouble codes. I presumed you had after mentioning the bad #1 sensor. Most large auto parts chain stores read them free, call around. Also make sure you write down the P0 trouble code numbers. The frame ground strap should not cause your idling or stalling issues but do replace it.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228242
 






hmm, crank sensor did ring a bell, after hearing you had tested the fuel pressure/pump.
Also, look for loose/corroded electrical plugs. Have you reset the computer?
 






I'll second replacing the ground strap from the block to the firewall. That can't hurt.

It's also strange that you only hear a vacuum type sound when you are in reverse… I would say if you get the codes read it would give you a better idea where to go from there.

Post what codes you pull if you get a chance.
 






Hmm, I never considered the crank sensor. The symptoms of a 'bad' one on AutoZone.com (take this for what it's worth) is similar to what I am experiencing. The part is only $15 so it's definitely worth a shot.
 






Hmm, I never considered the crank sensor. The symptoms of a 'bad' one on AutoZone.com (take this for what it's worth) is similar to what I am experiencing. The part is only $15 so it's definitely worth a shot.
Why keep guessing and throw parts at it? :scratch: Get trouble codes before wasting more time and money.

BTW, crankshaft position sensor DTC's are p0335-339. GL
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228242
 






I would definitely REPLACE the upper and LOWER intake gaskets. Common problem on the SOHC 4.0. Its only about 20 bucks and a couple of hours of time. Sounds like too much unmeatered air entering intake....
 






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