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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Thanks Gary, and you’re right, I’m very suspicious of the fuel pump but was hoping it was something else. The pump is technically under warranty so I can have it replaced at no charge as long as that’s the issue. The place I had do the pump would probably have my Ex for a week, plus they’re a good distance away from me. Not to big a deal considering it was a $1000 repair but I don’t want to go back there unless I’m certain it’s the pump. Btw thanks for that article it was incredibly informative. So my Explorer should be putting out between 30-40psi according to the specs. When I use forscan I show 270kPa which translates to about 40psi. The pump is supposed to be at 2.8 volts when running and that is the voltage that forscan showed me. However, after being on the freeway doing about 65mph for 15-20min I took another reading of the voltage and it was up to about 3.75 volts. I don’t know if that’s normal for it to jump like that to maintain that 40psi in the fuel rail after being on the freeway. But if that isn’t normal I’m thinking that would indicate that the fuel pump is working harder to than it needs to. I’ve overlooked my fuel filter because I replaced it about 20k ago and figured it was good for 30k miles. I didn’t have the shop do it when they changed the pump because it had only 10k mikes on the filter at that point even though they offered. I’m wondering when the old pump died if it sent a bunch of **** into the filter and it’s finally clogged enough to cause a restriction. I would feel pretty stupid if it’s the filter but I’m really hoping it is at this point. If not, I’m going back to the place that did my pump because I’m just not sure what else it would be or what else to look for.
So in the end it turns out I have no static fuel pressure even though the pump is still functioning. The check valve on the pump is bad. I installed my inline check valve to see if they would solve the issue and it appears it has now that the pressure is staying up. I’m going to call the shop that did my pump tomorrow and see what they say, they should replace it under warranty. I’ll take the check valve out so the system remains stock unless the shop tells me they’re not going to cover it for some reason. Either way, I should remove it before they look at it. What a PIA this has been but glad to have figured it out.
So interesting turn of events, I have my Ex at the shop that replaced the pump. Apparently with this fuel system it’s not supposed to retain static pressure when the vehicle is off. I find that odd because how do you prevent vapor lock if you don’t have pressure and the system is up to full temp and the fuel starts to boil? Any way, they are going to try a throttle body relearn procedure and go from there. I don’t know what to think at this point...
I wouldn't take their word at face value. I agree that if this were true then there would be a lot of starting issues with these vehicles. Also, did they say how a throttle body relearn procedure would solve your problem?
Doing more research, if there is a fuel pressure regulator on the
rail, then the fuel system is not pressurized but, the rail is (cake and
eat it too safety wise)!
It looks like we have one of those on ours. So if FPR leaks back into
the line etc etc.
I wouldn't take their word at face value. I agree that if this were true then there would be a lot of starting issues with these vehicles. Also, did they say how a throttle body relearn procedure would solve your problem?
I agree with you because how would the fuel not boil if wasn’t supposed to retain pressure. Secondly, if I prime my fuel system a few times by keying it on and off I practically starts right. That by itself tells me there is some sort of pressure issue. They didn’t explain and I didn’t ask why they thought the throttle body relearn would solve my problem. Of course they couldn’t replicate the issue but then they didn’t run it up to full temp they just tried starting it a few times when it was cold. So they are just going off of me saying it was hard starting and must’ve not take a look at the notes the person took down when I called. If they even took notes.
Doing more research, if there is a fuel pressure regulator on the
rail, then the fuel system is not pressurized but, the rail is (cake and
eat it too safety wise)!
It looks like we have one of those on ours. So if FPR leaks back into
the line etc etc.
The Fuel rail has a fuel rail pressure sensor attached to it and that was the first thing I replaced. Other than that there were no other sensors attached to the rail. There is nothing else the fuel line attaches to between the fuel filter that sits just in front of the tank and the fuel rail. So unless it’s something weird like the throttle body I have to assume the problems at the tank somewhere. But I think it was the throttle body the problem would occur all the time and not only when the engine is hot.
Okay so they confirmed it was the fuel pump lol. I don’t think that first guy I talked to knew what he was talking about. I talked to manager and he confirmed it wasn’t holding enough pressure. I won’t be able to pick it up until Monday is the only bummer. No AC in the truck I’m rolling around in right now but happy to hear it’ll be under warranty.
Okay so they confirmed it was the fuel pump lol. I don’t think that first guy I talked to knew what he was talking about. I talked to manager and he confirmed it wasn’t holding enough pressure. I won’t be able to pick it up until Monday is the only bummer. No AC in the truck I’m rolling around in right now but happy to hear it’ll be under warranty.