Need extension / swivel / square drive adapter / for 96 4.0 spark plug replacement? | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Need extension / swivel / square drive adapter / for 96 4.0 spark plug replacement?

toypaseo

Flunked daycare
Elite Explorer
Joined
January 3, 2003
Messages
7,459
Reaction score
894
City, State
outside shovelling snow
Year, Model & Trim Level
................ 96 XLT ™
Planning on attempting this job soon. Been digging on here, and other places, for tools I might need. Some of the tools might be only used for this job, and then sit in the toolbox until I attempt it again. I would rather not spend huge dollars on tool(s) like that :dunno:

One thing that did get mentioned a lot is long extensions.

I have ran across these mentioned, but not really any of them get mentioned a lot. I was kinda thinking about the first one. Second one I can get for about half the price at Advance Auto, using an online coupon, but didn't know if it was too short. Third one is just a random one for the specific socket. Fourth one is just a random one for a square drive adapter, to use with a standard spark plug socket. Lots of different styles and prices for those.

11lLb%2Bfb2cL.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VFK1UI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61

31PoZeKjXdL.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80...qid=1435121294&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+5/8

31fEk22D3FL._SY450_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80...qid=1435121737&sr=1-8&keywords=spark+plug+5/8

31AlGUHMa1L.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-JHAM4...201&sr=1-33&keywords=ratcheting+drive+adapter

Images courtesy of http:/ /www.amazon.com
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I have it down to 5 tools & Nickel Anti-Seize when changing plugs on my 1998 w/ 4.0 OHV and A/C.

I do all my work top down within the engine compartment.

Hands down, the most essential tool is my Craftsman 3/8 Flex Head Ratchet.

It provides me with leverage as well as fine internal teeth.

It's an absolute lifesaver on Passenger side cylinders 1, 2, 3, (up front on 1 is the Alternator and in the back on 3 is the A/C Accumulator).

I use it in both directly on top of the spark plug socket, as well as in combination with a 3" and 6" extension.

To round it up, I use a Craftsman Spark Plug Socket.

Link: http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3-8-in-drive-flex-head-quick-release/p-00944815000P

spin_prod_206328901?hei=416&wid=416&op_sharpen=1.jpg


Also, get yourself one of these - the easiest and most accurate I've used:

7132rJge7yL._SX425_.jpg


Link: http://www.amazon.com/Hand-Tools-44...=1435126614&sr=8-1&keywords=spark+plug+gapper

And make sure you use this - nickle anti-seize, for HIGH HEAT applications.
A Ford Master Tech turned me on to this stuff - he swore by it - and I've been very happy with the results.
I used to use the "regular" anti-seize and that stuff will get dry and gummy between plug changes.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-7713...TF8&qid=1435126710&sr=8-1&keywords=anti+seize

615otnILwSL._SY355_.jpg


Tips:

* Remove plug wire, and blast compressed air around the old plug before removal.
This will prevent grit/debris from falling in the cylinder as well as the hole threads.

*The most important thing about changing plugs on the 4.0 OHV is to remember how much "feel" comes into play when torquing down the plug into the hole. This spark plug design does not have a "crush gasket" - the seating is accomplished via a taper fit. That's why it's so important to keep the area around each spark plug hole clean.
 






3/8" universal and wobble extensions are indispensable in tight spaces.
They were the only "special" tools I used for spark plugs and are used often.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-univ...prdNo=34&blockNo=34&blockType=G34#description
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4pc-...0P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#description

Forgot about these, especially if you are reusing your wires.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-spark-plug-pliers/p-00947315000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Cool spark plug gapper Fast Dave, never seen those before. Now I need to spend another $30 for free Amazon shipping. ;)

BTW, you meant passenger side ONE-TWO-THREE :D
It's an absolute lifesaver on Passenger side cylinders 4, 5, 6 (up front is the Alternator and in the back is the A/C Accumulator).
 






Has anyone mentioned a lubricant for the plug boot?
 






Has anyone mentioned a lubricant for the plug boot?

Dielectric grease is good for both ends of the plug wires
 






Great info everyone :thumbsup:

Looks like I have some shopping to do :D

I gap my plugs using something like this:
flatfeeler.jpg
 












[MENTION=37891]fast_dave[/MENTION], do you think a bent handle flex ratchet like this would work, or just be a hassle with the bent handle? I have a bent handle ratchet, but I need to dig it out to see if it is a flex head.
 






3/8" universal and wobble extensions are indisdpensable in tight spaces.
They were the only "special" tools I used for spark plugs and are used often.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-univ...prdNo=34&blockNo=34&blockType=G34#description
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4pc-...0P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#description

Might snag these from Advance Auto, using a coupon code...

GearWrench 4pc 3/8 wobble extension - $13.64
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8-drive-wobble-extension-set-81201/25984243-P

GearWrench 3pc universal joint set - $11.69 (if my 3/8 is junk)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gear-wrench-university-joint-set-81228/10044808-P

GearWrench flex head 3/8 ratchet - $21.45
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gear-wrench-3-8-drive-flex-head-ratchet-81219/25984154-P
 






toypaseo,

What you listed would be a fine substitute for the Craftsman ratchet I pictured.


With regards to an 4.0 OHV in an Explorer

If I remember correctly, it's so tight back on the number 3 cylinder next to the A/C Accumulator (passenger side), that I first have to place the spark plug socket over the old plug, and then orientate the flex head ratchet into the engine compartment so as to mate it to the seated socket. I hope that makes sense.

To install the new plug, you have to place it in the socket, and hand thread it into the hole. When the plug is finger tight seated, you orientate the flex head ratchet down on top of the socket, mate the ratchet to the socket and torque it down.

Try to keep the socket parallel to the plug as you torque it down as you don't want to exert any side pressure that will snap the ceramic insulator.
 






Excellent tools plus a 35% discount sounds like a no brainer. IMO GearWrench is comparable to Craftsman, if not better. Great deal.
 






Excellent tools plus a 35% discount sounds like a no brainer. IMO GearWrench is comparable to Craftsman, if not better. Great deal.

Guess what brick & mortar store I have down the street from me ;)
 






I sent a message to my past neighbor in CO, who used to work at a local Ford dealer, and asked what he suggests. He even has a gen1 Explorer, and I know he has changed the plugs on that for sure :thumbsup: I will post his suggestions also.
 






Well, he suggested a swivel spark plug socket, anti-seize, and dielectric grease.

31fEk22D3FL._SY450_.jpg

Image courtesy of http:/ /www.amazon.com
 






That's a good tool for a spark plug change but from your OP:
Some of the tools might be only used for this job, and then sit in the toolbox until I attempt it again.
A 3/8" universal and a six point long socket does the exact same thing, you just have to make sure the socket is seated squarely on the plug at all times. Don't overthink this, it's a moderately easy job but takes some time. Many remove the passenger tire and rubber fender liner for ease of access to #3 . Plugs may come out "screechy" when removing because the factory did not use anti seize. Blow compressed air in the plug wells as you are loosening. As you've read in many threads, use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs for best results and you're good for another 70-100k minimum. Here's mine at less than 50k. Major gap wear and lots of thread rust.

DSC01700.jpg
 






Just sayin' - I have two rolling tool boxes filled with a 35 year collection of tools, so I can utilize any combination possible when removing and installing plugs on my Gen 2 Ex.

In my experience, a flex head ratchet does the job better job (for me) due to no "side force" being exerted, as opposed to a universal joint on top of plug socket (or ANYWHERE on the ratchet OR extension).

So, in my case, to eliminate "side force" I prefer to use a combination of tools that allows me to work "straight on" when removing and installing spark plugs.

Side force is bad for threads and insulators. When changing plugs on any vehicle, it's my biggest fear that I am on the lookout for - it creates a situation where you enter the zone of possibly inducing Cross Threading and Cracked Ceramic Insulators. Look at the product Heli-Coil - they have made a LOT of money due to cross threading ;)

This is just me being objective based on my experience of 40 years of working on vehicles of all sorts, and 11 years of owning my Gen 2 Ex Sport with a 4.0 OHV & A/C, and changing (5) sets of plugs.

I've never had to use more than the tools I listed in post #2 , nor remove a wheel or fender plastic. All my work has been from the top down.

But hey - as I say to guys I interact with in the field while repairing and servicing their equipment, "that's one way to do it" , so YMMV :)
 






Pic from CO neighbor...

andrewtools.jpg
 






That's a good tool for a spark plug change but from your OP:

Don't overthink this, it's a moderately easy job but takes some time. [/IMG][/URL]
That's funny, I was thinking the same thing when I saw this thread-spark plug replacement is one of the simpler tasks on these trucks. The specialty plug socket holds the plug in a rubber insert so you don't lose it during removal or installation, other than that any ol' 5/8 quality deep socket will do. I say "quality" because the cheap ones are too fat to fit inside the heat shields

Bill
 






I say "quality" because the cheap ones are too fat to fit inside the heat shields
EXACTLY the issue I had. The special "spark plug socket" wall was too thick. Resorted to using a standard 5/8" long socket.

Neat trick to hold a nut or spark plug on a socket is to stick a piece of paper towel in the socket. Works well in tight spots.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Featured Content

Back
Top