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Need Help, Something is Wrong!

Dan Blackwell

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Joined
June 9, 2004
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City, State
wilmington
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 xlt
Well I was changing my oil with a friend of mine. After we completed the job I cranked up the car and it sounded a little funny when it was idling. Like a ticking noise. I felt there is something wrong and my buddy checked everything over again to make sure everything was done right. Which we believe it is... So we call up to a local Autozone to ask them about what had happend. The guy at autozone said not to drive the car and to have it towed to get it looked at. He believes that the oil didn't get to the crankcase b/c of a cloged oil line. Guys please help me out this is ridicluous! I need as much input as possible.....please respond....
-Dan
 



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First off, did you check the oil level on the dipstick??

How many quarts did you add, what viscosity? What brand is the new oil filter? Check under the truck - sure it didn't leak out?

How long was the truck on? It can take up to 30 seconds to refil the oil filter and circulate the new oil through the block. Low oil pressure for a short time upon start up is normal.
 












V8BoatBuilder said:
First off, did you check the oil level on the dipstick??

How many quarts did you add, what viscosity? What brand is the new oil filter? Check under the truck - sure it didn't leak out?

How long was the truck on? It can take up to 30 seconds to refil the oil filter and circulate the new oil through the block. Low oil pressure for a short time upon start up is normal.
Thats why i have always advocated filling the filter, test it yourself, do your oil change, do not fill the filter, start the rig up, than sit and watch the gauge take 15 secs to register, thats 15 secs your mains saw O oil, next time fill the can, you will see pressor within a second
 






I checked the oil on the dipstick and it read full. I added 5 quarts of 10w 40 Pennzoil with a FRAM PH8A. No leaking...Truck was on for a minute or so and the sound got worse, not better. The oil pressure guage read normal....
 






Please help me out guys. I am totally oblivious to what is going on. Could my motor possibly be blown???
-Dan
 






Pennzoil bbbbbaaaaaaaadddddddd mobile gooooooodddd don't know what else but stay far away from that crap it'll let your engine fall apart i wouldn't use it in a lawnmower!
 






It sounds to me like the problem is the Viscosity. 10w40 is too thick for the X. Should be either 10w30 or 5w30. This might be your problem.
 






Cali' Explorer said:
It sounds to me like the problem is the Viscosity. 10w40 is too thick for the X. Should be either 10w30 or 5w30. This might be your problem.

Could I lose my engine??? Its at Ford now... I'm soo nervous...
 






You said you ran it for about a minute and then shut it down? I would say that if you only ran it a minute and weren't revving it, you'll be fine.

The bottom end of your engine was still getting lubrication becuase the bottom end is sitting in it, and the top end is pretty forgiving about not having oil. You were most likely hearing the top end rockers clacking because there was no oil taking up the gap. It should be ok.
 






Prior to changing the oil did you add any type of Motor Flush?
When was the last time the oil was changed?
How did you change your oil?

If you flush a high mile engine (running reg oil, & not flushed before) it can loosen up too much built up gunk which can clog the upper oil ways going to the valves. This is also why a lot of places don't like to flush transmissions that haven't been regularly serviced. The flush does more harm than good.
 






NEVER listen to an idiot at Autozone. I mean come on, an oil line stopped your oil from draining into the pan???? 10W40 is fine to use in the summer. Its just a little bit thicker when warm, compared to a 10W30. I use Mobil 1 in my truck and wouldn't use anything else. Even though its a little more expensive, I can go at least 6K miles with out changing the oil and get better protection. Don't know how many miles you have, but I know I switch to full synthetic around 50K miles and have had 0 problems to date with changing my oil at 6K miles and filter every 3k. I currently have 113k miles on my truck.
 






I've ran 10w40 in all my trucks and I have never had a problem with wear. I replace oil and filter every 3000 miles and my truck runs like a sewing machine (**knock on wood**). I have over 130000 miles on the explorer and my old s-10, even after some extreme abuse from my brother (runs like a champ) has around the same...all of them have had 10w40 :)

Later
CP :D
 






Don often times when you drain oil out of a vehicle that is a few years old you will get a oil pump that doesn't return to pumping loss of prime or scuff mark somewhere on rotating parts in the oil pump. Hydraulic lifters sometimes will not pump right back up and clatter also. Long time ago a fellow racer told me to use Marvel Mystery oil in either of these situations. The oil has a tendency to coat scuffed metal parts, drop about a half quart in your oil or drain a quart of oil and put in a quart of marvel. Crank the car up and in a few seconds it should smooth out if it was one of these two problems. I have used this idea many times before, it works, good luck.
 






Dan Blackwell said:
I checked the oil on the dipstick and it read full. I added 5 quarts of 10w 40 Pennzoil with a FRAM PH8A.
There's your problem... tapping noise from that damn Fram filter :banghead: . I don't know if it's too late now since you said Ford has your truck but try to switch it to Motorcraft Oil Filter.
 






X~FACTOR said:
There's your problem... tapping noise from that damn Fram filter :banghead: . I don't know if it's too late now since you said Ford has your truck but try to switch it to Motorcraft Oil Filter.

Whats the problem with fram. We've used Fram filters in all of our cars for years with out a problem. A few with high miles. And I've used them in mine for the past 24k miles. What the deal dude?
 






liqhx2 said:
Pennzoil bbbbbaaaaaaaadddddddd mobile gooooooodddd don't know what else but stay far away from that crap it'll let your engine fall apart i wouldn't use it in a lawnmower!
Pennzoil is fine. Any oil with the starburst symbol on it is ok to use. It certainly wouldn't cause your motor to fall apart. For how much cheaper it is I'd rather change the oil every 2500 miles, than synthetic at 5000 miles.
 






I believe you may have heard the typical chain tensioner rattle that has plagued both 4.0L engines (moreso the SOHC with up to 4 individual chains) since 1997 Model year.

Typically you hear the rattle on a start up and it may go away within 1 minute, or not at all. It is much more apparent on first start after an oil change.

There is a couple of FSA's (recalls) on the 4.0 SOHC... HOWEVER there are milage and date in service exemptions though that could cause no coverage by FOMOCO.

Hope for you that it is just a chain guide tensioner or cassetts... that would be the least expensive.... as long as you didn't have to much chain slack and bend the intake valves on one bank (or both banks)... that would be right or left side or worst case both.... IF IT WAS RUNNING ROUGH AND CONTINUES TO DO SO... check compression (relative compression) will show low on one whole side of the engine.... like 50psi or more lower than the other side.

GOOD LUCK!!!! Sorry to hear about that. It does happen, like with any mechanical component. Best we can do is just do the regular schedual of maintenance and buy GOOD PARTS!! :banghead:

I have to say in the 13 years I've been working for Ford Motor Company... over 90% of the engine failures that I have worked on had a Fram or a "Local Grease Monkey" oil filter and just looked awful inside.

Anyway, good luck to you. Make sure it runs GOOD when you get it back or don't take it until it runs ok.

Sincerely
-Bryan :cool:
Ford Senior Master Technician
 






I'd like to see an OHV with cam chain problems.
 



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....wow

Mbrooks420 said:
Pennzoil is fine. Any oil with the starburst symbol on it is ok to use. It certainly wouldn't cause your motor to fall apart. For how much cheaper it is I'd rather change the oil every 2500 miles, than synthetic at 5000 miles.
you need to wake up man....penzoil...is sh.....crap id put, if dollor general made car oil, i'd put that in first.
 






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