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need help: what front locker to get?

Sinjin

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City, State
Avondale(Phoenix), Arizona
Year, Model & Trim Level
"RETIRED" 1997 Sport
Hello,

Im would like to put a locker up front for some extra traction. I know there are a few people who might have experience on this subject as well as first hand observations. Im just cofused on what to get, brand, and type. Any helpful hints, ideas, would be greatly appreciated. Details on my truck is below.
Thanks,
 



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Rod, I have bad news for you. No one makes a front locker for our new models. The Trac-Loc limited slip is the only option so far. I'll have one in mine before Moab next year, or Truckhaven if I can get off work to go there too.
 






Has anyone thought about getting theirs lincoln locked? :) Course without hubs that would be rather scary so never mind... LOL
 






Sinjin,

You don't want the front locked tighter than the rear - in other words, with a limited slip in the rear, only put a limited slip in the front. If you put a locker in the rear, then either a limited slip or a locker are OK for the front.

You realize, with a locker in the front, steering will be rather difficult, right? And without manual hubs, you can't unlock 1 hub to aid in steering.

Just things to think about ...
 






Hey Rod, I would reccomend the trac-lock I had it in when we did CCR2000 and It made a hudge difference I had no tire slip at all. Plus you can get it from 4-wheel part wholesalers for really cheep. Mine cost 189. It is the one for a dana 35 reverse rotation. All IFS dana 35's are reverse rotation full ifs and the ttb are the same. Its listed on the web site but if you call it's a little bit cheaper.
 






Robbie, did you put yours in yourself or pay someone else to do it? If you did it yourself how easy of a job was it to do?
 






I notice that Robbie has a 91. You other guys have the new IFS suspension.
 






Yep he has a '91. But I am assuming that the internals of the Dana 35 are similar, and was wondering how much trouble it would be to install the clutch packs and carrier myself once I took the trouble to drop the diffy down.
 






G, Let me know if you do it. I know a little bit about the 91-94 front ends (2wd & 4wd) but dont know to much about the newer 4wd set ups.
 






I did the install myself. I was lucky because everything lined up right. It took about two hours but, for the full ifs I might take longer due to the cv's and what not. To find out I'd call a local 4x4 shop and find out labor rates just to see the difference in prices to determine the extra work. It comes as a complete unit and all that you have to do is remove the ring gear and bolt it to the new carrier. I'd reccomend doing the gears too if at all possible just because I didn't and wish I would have.
Hope this helps
RobbieJ
 






Thanks. I was concerned that maybe I would have to worry about setting backlash and stuff like that or if I could just "push it in there and bolt her back up". I have heard that getting my front diffy out is a nightmare. Once you had yours open though, all you had to do was replace the parts and reassemble it, no driveline backlash adjustments or special tools needed, etc?

I don't need gears; I already have 4.10.
 






LockRight

The folks at the Discount Warehouse in SD said they have a Lock Right (the older version) that will fit our front ends. I would worry about turning difficulty and wear on the front end without manual hubs. My rear Lock Right went in very easily in my garage. I was thinking of getting the front and installing it only for the tougher runs. Its two hours of work before and after the runs, but if there is no alternative... Of course, the rear one disengages very well on the corners so why not leave it in...
 






Rick,
It would probably take you 2 hours just to get the front diff out of the truck. There is no way to do the gears with the diff still in.
 






I see what you mean...

Ray,
Looks like a fun job! I'll probably wait until january then!
Rick
 






Guys, don't run a locker in the front end if you don't have hubs, you wont like it. I have a lockright in mine and with the hubs locked in two wheel drive it clunks and bangs alot when your turning sharp. It's cause of the slop in the driveline with no drive load on it.

I've got a L/R it the back also and am happy with both but I wouldn't want to drive one very far with out being able to unlock the hubs.
 






Looks like I wait for Warn and their hubs...

Lets cross our fingers and pray for the hubs from Warn!
 






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