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Front Locker Performance in a 2nd Generation Explorer


CDW6212R

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Right,yes.
 

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JohnnyO

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Premier said:
No, the BWM allows you to turn the magnets in the t-case off. Giving you 2wd, and 2wd low. The vacuum disconnect mod, is the one that allows you to disconnect the vacuum in the front axle.
Thanks. :thumbsup: I stand corrected.

I'm still somewhat concerned how my truck will react in 2wd on the street since it does not have a pulse-vac disconnect, rather the front axle is live all the time with the dash knob only switching the 4wd on and off.
 
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JDraper

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With your Ranger in 2wd, you won't even know a Powertrax is up there. When no power is applied, it works just like an open differential. You may hear an occasional pop or click, but it won't affect the handling. You notice it more in when the unit is installed in the rear axle because it locks when power is applied.

Toddius, when you've got the xfer case in 2WD you won't have power applied to the front, even with the locker installed. If you don't have a 2WD setting, you can do the brown wire mod, and that will effectively give you 2WD, and you won't even know the locker is there.
 


CDW6212R

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Hello, can I throw another bug into the jar. Most of these questions have been about a locking front differential. The "locker" type will cause pushing problems on any Explorer(in 4WD), in slick conditions.
A differential that doesn't "lock" the front axles, but smoothly redistributes power between them, will be less prone to push the front wheels.
Trac Tech makes a differential called a Truetrac, which is a torque-sensing type of differential. I just called Reider Racing to see if a Zexel Torsen was available for the front. That probably will not be made, but Reider can modify a Truetrac to go into the front Dana 35 housing. A $25 charge was mentioned to take apart and reassemble the Truetrac so that it will fit.
Anyone who isn't looking for the full locking type of front differential, should call Reider to discuss the Truetrac. Good Luck,
Don W :thumbsup:
 
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JohnnyO

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Thanks, that's good to know. I did some digging a while ago and found that a Tru-Trac would be ideal for my application but it's not available for the late-model front axles on Rangers and X's.
 


CDW6212R

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Yes, but Reider can make one fit. I did forget to ask how much those are. The Zexel Torsen has gone up.
Don
 


toddious

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so would thes be the opposite of an open differential? so when one tires starts to spin, THAT is the tire that gets power?
 


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toddious said:
so would thes be the opposite of an open differential? so when one tires starts to spin, THAT is the tire that gets power?
No, that is how an open diff works, it sends more power to the spinning wheel. A limited-slip sends power to the non-spinning wheel when one wheel starts to spin. A locker locks both wheels together unless/until there is a great speed difference between them (such as turning), then one wheel unlocks.
www.howstuffworks.com
 


toddious

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i'm sorry, i wrote what i was trying to say backwards. i meant, so when one tire starts to spin, it will send power to the opposite tire? (in a torque sensing differential). todd.
 


CDW6212R

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Yeah Todd, somehow it uses the RPM of the spinning axle to apply pressure to cause the torque to increase to the other axle. I think the locking, or normal limited slip diffs, are not so good for the front of a road driven Explorer. etc, in slick conditions.

The torque sensing differentials have the potential to not cause those steering problems in the front of street going vehicles. I'd like to try one myself, but it's a minor thought, maybe later.
DonW
 


toddious

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i think i'd still rather just have the vacuum disconnect/locker setup. this way, it's like having open differential all the time, except when you really think you could get stuck, and then you can lock up the front end. or is that not right? i guess you wouldn't ever have open diff. would you? just (for me) limited slip when in 2wd, then the only other option is locked up front end with limited slip rear(when in 4wd). is this correct?
 


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It wont be open. When in 4wheel drive, the left tire will be engaged. Then you flip the vacuum switch, and it locks the right in.
 


toddious

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i'm not sure what you mean by "engaged". do you mean that the left tire will be driving (i.e. 3wd)? or just spinning the driveshaft? i assume the former, which is what makes it perfect for all situations (2wd=normal, 3wd=sticky but need steering (ice, snow), 4wd=real sticky, steering isn't an issue).
 


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Yes.. engaged/locked in.
 


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It has been mentioned that to install the front locker you need to remove the ring gear. Does this completely mess up the gear alignment? What is involved with removing the front ring gear. Thanks.
 


CDW6212R

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It usually needs realigned. I have not worked on a front myself. I assume the same shims are available to move the differential left or right, to correct the ring/pinion clearance.

If you only change the diff, then you shouldn't worry about the ring/pinion alignment. That is adjusted with the pinion shims. If the gear wear is fine, then just set the clearance on the ring/pinion gears. LOL,
Don
 


JDraper

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If you're doing a lunchbox locker like a powertrax, you can do it in the driveway. You just have to be careful to make sure you mark everything when you take it apart so it assembles in the same way, and you have to make sure you get the torque values right. If you're doing a full locker where you replace the carrier, you need to do a re-set on your gears. I've done both types.
 


jasonb

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BenS said:
It has been mentioned that to install the front locker you need to remove the ring gear. Does this completely mess up the gear alignment? What is involved with removing the front ring gear. Thanks.
There are about 8-10 bolts holding the ring gear to the carrier. You will need to put a prybar/screwdriver/whatever in the yolk to keep it from spinning to remove those bolts. I removed the ring gear when I installed and removed my No-Slip. I didn't even try it without so I don't know if you have to. It would have been really tight without removing it if it was possible. I am not aware of any issue with gear alignment that this would cause. You could always mark the ring gear bolt holes to match them back up if you want.
 


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There are about 8-10 bolts holding the ring gear to the carrier. You will need to put a prybar/screwdriver/whatever in the yolk to keep it from spinning to remove those bolts. I removed the ring gear when I installed and removed my No-Slip. I didn't even try it without so I don't know if you have to. It would have been really tight without removing it if it was possible. I am not aware of any issue with gear alignment that this would cause. You could always mark the ring gear bolt holes to match them back up if you want.
Thanks Jason, that was exactly the answer I was looking for. Second question, what is the recommended torque for those bolts?
 

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jasonb

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really tight. :D I don't know a true torque number but they were on there pretty good so I just tightened them back really good. I'll look through the service manual to see if it says.
 


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