Need help with my V8 swap

[Axial32]

It might possibly help... how long would you be able to stay out here for Joe...??? my brother doesn't get out of work until 5.. so he'll want to meet you and see these manuals...
Just give me a call whe you are headed this way... and I'll help you with directions.. they're super simple...

I've got a couple things in mind to check when I get out there tomorrow after reading some stuff in this haynes book...

 

[pwrshft99]

Did you swap out the entire wiring harness from a V8 truck or just the engine control harness ??

Theses OBD2 computers are tied into everything. Ive done a lot of swapping and modding in the mustang world and I seen electronics give people fits.

I'm not sure the year motor n computer you are using but if it had an anti theft system, you may need to turn it off with a chip. If it does have PATS in place the only other way to get it to start is with the entire body harness plugged in and the v8 gauge cluster as well..

 

[pwrshft99]

Did you swap out the entire wiring harness from a V8 truck or just the engine control harness ??

Theses OBD2 computers are tied into everything. Ive done a lot of swapping and modding in the mustang world and I seen electronics give people fits.

I'm not sure the year motor n computer you are using but if it had an anti theft system, you may need to turn it off with a chip. If it does have PATS in place the only other way to get it to start is with the entire body harness plugged in and the v8 gauge cluster as well..

 

[Axial32]

I believe power to the ignition coils (red/light green wire) comes from Fuse 19 (25 amps) in the interior fuse panel. It should be battery voltage in start or run. The PCM controls when the coils fire but the coils should have power no matter what the PCM does.

Fuse 19 gets power from the ignition switch via a light green/purple wire.

Power to the ignition switch comes (via yellow wire) from Fuse 1 (60 amps) in the power distribution box.

From what I can understand in the haynes book it is actually Fuse 24 (10A) in the interior fuse panel.

Here's the pic from the haynes book:

 

[Axial32]

Both the donor and orginal are 97 explorers both with anti theft...

I only swapped over the pcm and the engine harness... along with the starter harness and trans harness
..

 

[2000StreetRod]

Starter vs ignition power

From what I can understand in the haynes book it is actually Fuse 24 (10A) in the interior fuse panel.

I agree that power for the starter control comes from Fuse 24. I was providing the source for the ignition coil pack. I think PATS was implemented in 1998 when there were significant electrical changes. You may have problems with the RAP module interface located in the left rear quarter panel or the transmission range sensor if you're not getting power to the starter relay solenoid (red/light blue wire).

 

[Axial32]

Ok, Well I just have to go look over everything I guess...
It's going to be a long day today

 

[Axial32]

Thanks JOe for letting me barrow those manuals... they're huge and hopefully a huge help.

Still don't know what we missed... reading through the manuals for installing the motor.. we did almost everything by the book without having a book to go by. We are pretty sure we got all the plugs and grounds also...

I am going to try the starter harness with cleaning it up.. but IDk if that will help.
If anybody else has ideas... just let me know we are willing to try anything.

 

[blueka]

do you have the wiring plugs with the bolts in the middle of them? Make sure they're bolted as tight as they'll go. I had the same problem when I changed my heater matrix on my UK 97 4 door. No power to the engine or anything else, turned out the plug looked tight, but really wasn't. Go back over all your plugs and harnesses once more.


Si

 

[Joe Dirt]

Yep- if the main harness is just pushed on it isn't contacting the connectors. I've not done an Ex motor, but I assume that there is a ground strap- is that attached?

No prob on the manuals!

I even found a good rim at LKQ!

 

[Axial32]

Yep- if the main harness is just pushed on it isn't contacting the connectors. I've not done an Ex motor, but I assume that there is a ground strap- is that attached?

No prob on the manuals!

I even found a good rim at LKQ!

Sweet... I'm glad that the trip was a success...
and for the questions:
umm..
Yes
Yes
and Yes...
everything is bolted together as tight as it will go without breaking them... all ground straps are on... (I think like all 5 of them or so.?)

We've looked everything over that we possibly could comprehend and found nothing wrong... so our next step to solve problems... is

We're just going to try swapping over the complete engine bay harness.. and see that will work... if not... I"M SCREWED..
and I will be forced by my parents to use their vehicle (fullsize suburban) for a week or so while everyone here is trying to get everything finished and they'll drive it down and swap with me..

 

[pwrshft99]

If you know anybody with an obd2 scanner or something like an SCT XCal, you should plug it into the test port and see if it communicates with the computer..

 

[Axial32]

I wish I did

 

[2000StreetRod]

original transmission?

Did you originally have a 5R55E or a stick transmission in your Sport?

Is your current most significant problem that the starter motor will not attempt to crank when the ignition key is turned to start?

Is the wiring to the instrument panel complete? Do any of the warning lights illuminate when the ignition key is turned to on?

 

[ranger7ltr]

One more item to check...

And if you already verified this I apologize...But is the tranny linkage connected and adjusted properly? And what about the neutral safety switch? Or rather the MPLS switch?

If you run the shifter through the range can you get the starter to fire in any other position?

 

[Axial32]

Ranger-
Nothing is wrong with the trans. linkage. the safety switch should be fine... it's the original from the original 4r70w which had no issues while we drove it before we scraped it.... we swapped over everything to the new trans.

StreetRod-
I had the 5R55e...
The lights that are on when the key is on is:
Check engine.. which was on before all this
ABS... which was on before all this
Battery
Check Gauge
And the airbag is flashing

We've got the full V8 engine capartment harness swapped over NOW... we DO have power to the coils now... no power out of the coils, along with no power out of the trigger wire from the ignition... which all this is probably because no crank when key is turned..

 

[Axial32]

Fuse #29 was blown... after replaced.. nothing improved.

 

[Axial32]

Well it's 1:35 in the morning and still nothing is getting spark... unless someone has an idea of what it might be causing these issues...

I tried to get a reading through some of the fuse blocks but with the battery now very low I couldn't tell if I had got a reading or not... it's on the charger now for morning testing.

 

[2000StreetRod]

trace the starter relay coil source path

You should determine if you have voltage at the starter relay coil. When the ignition key is in start there should be battery voltage at the red/light blue wire connection to the starter relay (left front of engine compartment, at fender apron). If there is voltage there then check the red wire connection to the starter relay. There should be battery voltage at the red wire at all times. If both the red wire and the red/light blue wire tests pass then check the black wire connection. There should be battery voltage at the black wire when the ignition is in start. The black wire goes to the starter motor to energize its internal solenoid.

If you don't have battery voltage at the red/light blue wire then check the pink wire connection to the transmission range sensor (left side of transmission) when ignition switch is in start.

 

[Axial32]

You should determine if you have voltage at the starter relay coil. When the ignition key is in start there should be battery voltage at the red/light blue wire connection to the starter relay (left front of engine compartment, at fender apron). If there is voltage there then check the red wire connection to the starter relay. There should be battery voltage at the red wire at all times. If both the red wire and the red/light blue wire tests pass then check the black wire connection. There should be battery voltage at the black wire when the ignition is in start. The black wire goes to the starter motor to energize its internal solenoid.

If you don't have battery voltage at the red/light blue wire then check the pink wire connection to the transmission range sensor (left side of transmission) when ignition switch is in start.

OK,
There isn't voltage at the starter relay coil. We went back and check fuses with volt/ohm meter and nothing...I do believe we had power at the ignition switch but no farther... checked the trans. range sensor(pink wire) no volts,

So would this mean the problem is from the RAP module... since between the ignition key and trans. sensor is the RAP????

If so, how could I disable//bypass that module.??